Kitchen renovation


Renovating a kitchen costs $600 to $6,000 if you do it yourself, depending on the method. Having a completely new kitchen installed easily costs $10,000 to $30,000. The good news: in most cases, the kitchen cabinets (the carcass) are still perfectly fine — it’s the doors, the countertop and the backsplash that look dated. By targeting those specifically, you can save up to 80% compared to a new kitchen. In this guide, we compare all methods, calculate costs and show you step by step how to carry out each approach.

Kitchen Renovation: Which Method Suits You?

There are four main methods to renovate a kitchen without replacing the entire thing. Each method has its own costs, difficulty level and result.

Methods Compared

Method Cost (DIY) Difficulty Result Lifespan
Painting $120 – $350 Medium Good (with proper prep) 5–8 years
Wrapping (adhesive film) $250 – $700 Medium–high Very good 5–10 years
New doors $700 – $3,000 Low–medium Excellent 15–20 years
Full renovation (doors + countertop + backsplash) $1,800 – $6,000 Medium–high Like new 15–20 years

Cost Comparison: Renovating vs. New Kitchen

Option Cost Time Note
Paint the kitchen $120 – $350 2–3 days Cheapest, but requires good preparation
Wrap the kitchen $250 – $700 2–4 days Wide colour range, professional result
Order new doors $700 – $3,000 1–2 days assembly Best result, least manual work
New doors + countertop $1,800 – $5,000 2–3 days Kitchen looks like new
Complete new kitchen (budget) $3,500 – $7,000 1–2 weeks Including self-installation
Complete new kitchen (professionally installed) $10,000 – $30,000 1–2 weeks Everything new, professionally fitted

The maths: if your kitchen cabinets are structurally sound (no moisture damage, not sagging, hinges work), renovating is almost always smarter than replacing. You save $3,500 to $25,000 and the result is comparable.

Method 1: Painting Kitchen Doors

Painting is the cheapest way to give your kitchen a completely new look. The difference in appearance is enormous — a dark brown kitchen from the 1990s becomes a modern white or grey kitchen for less than $350.

Materials List

Material Quantity (10 doors) Approx. Price
Sandpaper (120 + 240 grit) 5–10 sheets $5 – $12
Degreaser / TSP 1 bottle $5 – $8
Primer (adhesion primer for furniture paint) 1 litre $15 – $30
Paint (kitchen cabinet paint, satin or matt) 2–3 litres $50 – $100
Paint roller (foam roller, 5 mm nap) 2–3 pieces $8 – $15
Brush (flat, 50 mm) 1–2 pieces $5 – $12
Painter’s tape 2–3 rolls $8 – $15
Drop cloth 1 roll $5 – $12

Total: $100 – $210

Step-by-Step: Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Step 1: Remove the doors and drawers

  1. Number each door and its corresponding position with a piece of painter’s tape and a marker. This prevents puzzling when rehanging.
  2. Remove the doors from the hinges. On modern kitchen cabinets, you simply unclip the hinges.
  3. Remove the handles.
  4. Lay the doors flat on sawhorses or a workbench.

Step 2: Clean and degrease

  1. Wash each door with a TSP solution or dedicated degreaser. Kitchen doors are full of grease — paint won’t stick to grease.
  2. Rinse with clean water and let dry.

Step 3: Sand

  1. Sand each door with 120 grit. The goal is not to remove the old finish, but to remove the gloss so the primer can adhere.
  2. Remove all sanding dust with a damp cloth.

Step 4: Apply primer

  1. Apply a thin, even coat of adhesion primer with a foam roller.
  2. Touch up edges and profiles with a brush.
  3. Let dry for 4–6 hours.

Step 5: Light sanding between coats

  1. Sand lightly with 240 grit over the primer. This ensures the topcoat adheres properly.
  2. Remove sanding dust.

Step 6: Paint (2 coats)

  1. Apply the first coat of kitchen cabinet paint with a foam roller. Work in one direction, with light pressure.
  2. Let dry for 6–8 hours.
  3. Lightly sand between coats with 240 grit.
  4. Apply the second coat.
  5. Let dry for at least 24 hours, preferably 48 hours, before rehanging the doors.

Step 7: Reassemble

  1. Rehang the doors in the correct order (check your numbering).
  2. Adjust the hinges — the doors should hang straight and close properly.
  3. Fit the handles. Consider new handles — a different handle style makes a surprisingly big difference for $35–$70 total.

Common mistake: Not degreasing properly. One greasy spot and the paint peels off within a few months. Take your time on this step.

Method 2: Kitchen Wrapping

Wrapping means covering your kitchen doors with self-adhesive film. The result is more professional than painting, and there are hundreds of colours and patterns available — from matt white to wood-effect and concrete-effect.

Materials List

Material Quantity (10 doors) Approx. Price
Wrap film (kitchen film, not the cheapest) 8–12 m² $100 – $300
Degreaser 1 bottle $5 – $8
Squeegee (application tool) 1 piece $5 – $12
Utility knife (sharp blades) 1 set $5 – $12
Hair dryer or heat gun 1 (borrow or buy) $25 – $50
Spray bottle with soapy water 1 $3 – $5

Total: $145 – $390

Step-by-Step: Kitchen Wrapping

Step 1: Preparation

  1. Remove doors and drawers (same as painting — number everything).
  2. Clean thoroughly with degreaser.
  3. Lightly sand with 240 grit for better adhesion.
  4. Ensure the surface is dust-free and completely dry.

Step 2: Cut film to size

  1. Measure each door precisely (width + height).
  2. Cut the film 2–3 cm larger on all sides. You’ll trim the overlap later.
  3. For doors with profiles (panel-style): measure extra film for the recesses.

Step 3: Apply

  1. Spray a thin layer of soapy water on the door. This gives you 30–60 seconds to position the film before it sticks.
  2. Peel off the backing of the film and place it on the door.
  3. Squeegee from the centre to the edges. Work slowly and push air bubbles toward the edge.
  4. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife.
  5. Use a hair dryer on low to stretch the film around edges and profiles. Heat makes the film flexible.

Step 4: Finish the details

  1. Cut openings for hinges and handles.
  2. Press all edges firmly again with the squeegee.
  3. Check for air bubbles — pierce them with a needle and push the air out.

Common mistake: Buying cheap film. Film under $10/m² curls up, tears when warm and discolours within a year. Invest in quality film ($15–$30/m²) from brands like d-c-fix, Cover Styl’ or Belbien. The difference in result and durability is enormous.

Method 3: Ordering New Doors

If your budget allows, ordering new fronts is the easiest method with the best result. You only replace the doors and drawer fronts — the carcass (the cabinet itself) stays.

New Door Costs

Door Type Price per Door (standard size) Total 10 Doors Note
Vinyl-wrapped (budget) $30 – $60 $300 – $600 Standard from most kitchen suppliers
Painted MDF (matt/high gloss) $50 – $100 $500 – $1,000 Beautiful, durable, wide colour choice
Solid wood $75 – $180 $750 – $1,800 Premium look
Fenix/nano front $85 – $140 $850 – $1,400 Anti-fingerprint, self-healing
Custom (online supplier) $35 – $95 $350 – $950 e.g. Superfront, IKEA Metod, Noremax

How to Order the Right Size

  1. Measure each door: height x width in millimetres. Always measure at three points (left, centre, right) and take the smallest measurement.
  2. Note the hinge type and drill holes. Most modern kitchens use 35 mm cup hinges with standard drilling patterns.
  3. Order from a supplier that delivers custom sizes. Online suppliers like Superfront or Noremax deliver doors that fit IKEA kitchens and other standard kitchens. For non-standard sizes, use a local cabinet maker.

Installation

  1. Remove the old doors.
  2. Check if the drill holes on the new doors match the hinges. If not: drill new holes with a 35 mm Forstner bit.
  3. Click the hinges into the new doors.
  4. Hang the doors and adjust them.
  5. Fit the handles (new handles are recommended for a completely new look).

Replacing the Countertop

A new countertop makes at least as much difference as new doors. The countertop is the largest visible surface in the kitchen.

Countertops Compared

Countertop Type Price per Linear Metre DIY-Friendly? Lifespan Maintenance
Laminate (HPL) $60 – $180 Yes 10–15 years Low
Solid wood (oak, beech) $120 – $300 Yes 15–25 years (with maintenance) Oil every 6–12 months
Composite (Silestone, Caesarstone) $250 – $600 No (too heavy, custom-made) 20–30 years Very low
Natural stone (granite, marble) $300 – $700 No (too heavy, custom-made) 30+ years Low–medium
Concrete look (microcement) $180 – $350 Yes (over existing surface) 10–15 years Medium
Stainless steel $250 – $500 No (custom-made) 25+ years Low

DIY Countertop Replacement: Laminate or Solid Wood

  1. Remove the old countertop. Unscrew from underneath the cabinets, cut away sealant from the backsplash, and carefully lift off. Work with two people.
  2. Cut the new countertop to size. Measure precisely, including cutouts for sink and hob. Use a jigsaw with fine teeth to prevent chipping. Cut with the good side facing down (for laminate) or apply painter’s tape over the cut line.
  3. Seal the cut edge with edge banding (laminate) or wood filler + lacquer (solid wood).
  4. Place the countertop on the cabinets and screw it down from underneath. Don’t use glue — you want to be able to remove the countertop later.
  5. Seal the backsplash with kitchen silicone sealant.
  6. Fit the sink and tap. For an undermount sink: glue the sink underneath the countertop with mounting adhesive.

Budget tip: A laminate countertop from IKEA (Ekbacken, Säljan) costs $70–$140 per 186 cm and is good quality. For a 3-metre kitchen, you’re done for $140–$280.

Replacing the Backsplash

The backsplash is the third element that dates your kitchen. Three popular options:

Options Compared

Backsplash Type Price (2 m²) DIY-Friendly? Result
Tiles (wall tiles or mosaic) $50 – $180 Yes Classic, wide choice
Glass panel $250 – $500 No (custom-made, professional fitting) Modern, sleek, easy to clean
Aluminium/stainless steel panel $100 – $250 Yes (with mounting adhesive) Industrial, practical
Peel-and-stick tiles (PVC) $35 – $100 Yes Quick result, budget
Paint (specialist kitchen paint) $25 – $60 Yes Cheapest, limited protection

Tiling a Backsplash

  1. Remove the old backsplash (chip off tiles or remove old peel-and-stick tiles).
  2. Repair the wall — fill holes and imperfections with filler and let dry.
  3. Apply tile adhesive with a 6 mm notched trowel.
  4. Place the tiles with 2 mm spacers. Start with the bottom row, resting on the countertop.
  5. Grout after 24 hours with water-resistant grout.
  6. Seal the bottom (where it meets the countertop) and the top edge with silicone.

Complete Renovation Plan: Kitchen Makeover in 5 Days

For those wanting to tackle the kitchen completely — doors, countertop and backsplash — this is a realistic 5-day plan:

Day Tasks
Day 1 Remove doors, number them, degrease and sand. Remove countertop. Remove old backsplash.
Day 2 Prime doors (or wrap). Repair wall. Cut new countertop to size.
Day 3 Paint doors (coat 1). Install countertop. Tile/stick backsplash.
Day 4 Paint doors (coat 2). Grout backsplash. Fit sink and tap.
Day 5 Rehang doors. Apply sealant. Fit handles. Clean up.

Common Mistakes When Renovating a Kitchen

  1. Not degreasing before painting. Kitchen doors are greasy — paint won’t adhere and blisters within weeks. Degreasing is always step 1.
  2. Applying paint too thickly. Thick coats don’t dry properly, cause drips and sag. Two thin coats are always better.
  3. Using cheap wrap film. Film under $10/m² is money thrown away. It curls up near heat (next to the hob) and discolours.
  4. Not checking the countertop is level. A crooked countertop is noticeable every time you set down a glass of water. Check with a spirit level and shim where needed.
  5. Not adjusting hinges after installation. Crooked doors ruin the entire result. Take 10 minutes to adjust each door.
  6. Ignoring the carcass. Check before you start whether the cabinets themselves are still in good condition. Moisture damage, sagging shelves or loose joints? Then renovation doesn’t make sense and replacement is smarter.

Frequently Asked Questions About Kitchen Renovation

What is the cheapest way to update my kitchen?

Painting. For $120–$350 in materials, you give your kitchen a completely new look. Combine it with new handles ($35–$70) and the difference is enormous. The investment is low, the risk small and the result visible immediately.

How long does a wrapped kitchen last?

5–10 years, depending on the quality of the film and usage. Quality film (d-c-fix, Cover Styl’) combined with good preparation easily lasts 7–8 years. Near the hob, the film wears fastest — expect about 5 years there.

Can I put IKEA doors on my existing kitchen?

Only if your kitchen has IKEA Metod or Faktum cabinets. IKEA doors don’t fit cabinets from other brands due to different drilling patterns and sizes. Suppliers like Superfront make doors that do fit IKEA cabinets, in more colours and materials than IKEA itself offers.

Should I replace or renovate my kitchen?

Renovate if: the cabinets are structurally sound, you’re happy with the layout and your budget is limited. Replace if: there’s moisture damage to the cabinets, you want to change the layout, or the cabinets are over 25 years old and the material (particle board) is starting to sag.

How long does it take to renovate a kitchen?

Painting: 2–3 days (including drying time). Wrapping: 2–4 days. Fitting new doors: 1 day. Complete (doors + countertop + backsplash): 4–5 days. Your kitchen will have limited use during the renovation — plan meals in advance.

Is kitchen wrapping difficult?

It’s harder than painting but easier than tiling. The biggest challenge is preventing air bubbles and cutting clean edges. Tip: start with a small, flat door to get the feel of it. After 2–3 doors, it goes much faster. The tools are cheap (squeegee + utility knife + hair dryer), and you correct mistakes by peeling off the film and reapplying.


Building Plans and Guides

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