Building a bunk bed costs between €150 and €400 in materials, depending on the wood species and finish. Compare that with €300 to €900 for a ready-made bunk bed from IKEA or a furniture shop, and you can see why so many parents do it themselves. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide in 10 steps, a material list with exact dimensions, cost comparisons, and the safety requirements your bunk bed must meet. You need basic tools and a weekend.
DIY vs Buying: What’s Cheaper?
The price of a bunk bed varies considerably. Building your own is almost always cheaper, but the difference depends on your ambition level and the wood species you choose.
| DIY | IKEA (e.g. MYDAL) | Furniture shop | Custom carpenter | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cost | €150 – €400 | €300 – €500 | €500 – €900 | €800 – €1,500 |
| Wood species | Your choice | Pine (standard) | Beech/pine | As desired |
| Sizing | Fully custom | Fixed (90×200) | Limited | Custom |
| Build time | 6 – 10 hours | 2 – 3 hours assembly | Delivery + assembly | 2 – 4 weeks |
| Quality | Depends on you | Standard | Good to high | High |
| Lifespan | 10+ years (with good timber) | 5 – 10 years | 10+ years | 15+ years |
When DIY pays off: you want a specific size (for example for a sloped ceiling), you have basic woodworking experience, or you want a unique design like an L-shaped bunk bed or a bed with a desk underneath.
When buying is smarter: you don’t have tools, no experience with structural timber, or you want a standard 90×200 bed without modifications.
Which Type of Bunk Bed Suits Your Situation?
Not every bunk bed is the same. The type you choose determines the amount of material, the difficulty level and the space required.
Standard Bunk Bed (two beds stacked)
The most commonly built type. Two identical 90×200 cm frames, directly above each other. Requires a minimum ceiling height of 250 cm. Suitable for two children or a child plus guest bed. Difficulty: beginner to medium.
L-Shaped Bunk Bed
The lower bed is perpendicular to the upper bed. Takes more floor space, but gives a more open feeling. Under the upper bed there’s space for a desk or wardrobe. Minimum ceiling height of 250 cm needed. Difficulty: medium.
Mid-Sleeper with Desk Underneath
Single raised bed at about 120-150 cm height. A desk, wardrobe or seating area fits underneath. Suitable for children from age 6. No second sleeping spot, but maximum use of space. Difficulty: beginner.
Triple Bunk Bed (3-high)
Three beds stacked. Requires a ceiling height of at least 280 cm, preferably 300 cm. Structurally heavier: thicker posts and extra reinforcement needed. Difficulty: advanced. Only build this if you have experience with timber structures.
| Type | Minimum ceiling height | Floor space | Difficulty | Estimated material cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standard | 250 cm | ~200 x 100 cm | Beginner/medium | €150 – €300 |
| L-shape | 250 cm | ~200 x 200 cm | Medium | €200 – €400 |
| Mid-sleeper + desk | 240 cm | ~200 x 100 cm | Beginner | €120 – €250 |
| 3-high | 280 – 300 cm | ~200 x 100 cm | Advanced | €300 – €500 |
Standard Mattress Sizes for Bunk Beds
Buy your mattress before you start building, or match your internal dimensions exactly to a standard size. Nothing is more annoying than a frame that’s 2 cm too tight or too loose.
| Size | Dimensions | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|
| Single | 90 x 200 cm | Children, teenagers, adults (standard) |
| Narrow single | 80 x 200 cm | Smaller rooms, children up to ~12 years |
| Wide single | 100 x 200 cm | Teenagers, adults who want more room |
| Three-quarter | 120 x 200 cm | Spacious single (lower bed only, upper bed gets too wide) |
Tip: allow 1 cm clearance around the mattress when building the frame. For a mattress of 90×200 cm, make the frame’s inside dimensions 92×202 cm. This makes it easy to get the mattress in and out, without it sliding during sleep.
The mattress thickness matters too: for the upper bed choose a mattress of maximum 15 cm thick. Thicker means the guardrail is effectively lower, and that’s a safety risk.
Safety: Don’t Cut Corners Here
A bunk bed is higher than a regular bed. With the upper bed you sleep at 130-160 cm height. Safety is therefore not an extra – it’s the foundation of your design.
Age Limit
Children under 6 should not sleep in the upper bed. This isn’t an arbitrary guideline: the European safety standard EN 747 requires this. Young children lack the motor skills to safely use a ladder, especially at night when they’re half asleep.
Guardrail Height
The guardrail on all sides of the upper bed must extend at least 16 cm above the top of the mattress. Measure this with the mattress in place. With a 15 cm thick mattress and a 30 cm high guardrail, you only have 15 cm left: that’s too tight. Plan for a guardrail of at least 35 cm measured from the top of the slatted base.
On the entry side you may leave an opening of maximum 40 cm wide for getting in and out.
Maximum Weight
Calculate the load capacity generously. A child of 40 kg plus a mattress of 10 kg plus a parent who comes to read a bedtime story (80 kg) is already 130 kg. Design the upper bed for at least 150 kg capacity. Use enough slats (minimum 13 for a 90 cm wide bed) and sturdy cross beams.
European Standard EN 747
The EN 747 standard describes safety requirements for bunk beds. The key points:
- Guardrail height minimum 16 cm above mattress surface
- No openings where a child’s head can get through (between 6 and 9 cm are dangerous)
- Ladder securely attached, not loose or wobbly
- Structure must withstand a static load of 1,000 N (approximately 100 kg) on the centre of the slatted base without permanent deformation
- Upper bed not accessible for children under 6 (warning label required)
Wood Species: What’s Strong Enough?
Not every wood is suitable for a bunk bed. You need structural timber with sufficient load capacity that isn’t too heavy and stays affordable.
| Wood species | Strength | Weight | Price (indication) | Suitability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spruce | Sufficient | Light | € (cheapest) | Good, with correct dimensions |
| Pine | Good | Light-medium | € – €€ | Very suitable, most commonly used |
| Beech | Very good | Heavy | €€€ | Excellent, more expensive |
| Oak | Outstanding | Very heavy | €€€€ | Overkill, unless you love the look |
| Plywood (birch) | Good | Medium | €€ | Suitable for side panels and guardrails |
Minimum Dimensions for Structural Timber
These are the minimum cross-sections. Don’t go below these, even if the DIY store has a special offer on thinner beams.
| Component | Minimum dimension | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Posts (legs) | 70 x 70 mm | Square posts, for 3-high: minimum 90 x 90 mm |
| Side rails (frame) | 45 x 90 mm | Carry the weight along the length |
| Cross beams (frame) | 45 x 70 mm | Support the slatted base |
| Slatted base | 20 x 70 mm | Slats at approximately 60-70 mm spacing |
| Guardrail boards | 20 x 120 mm | Or 20 x 90 mm with two boards stacked |
| Ladder rails | 45 x 70 mm | Sturdy enough to stand on |
| Ladder rungs | 30 x 50 mm | Width minimum 30 cm, maximum 35 cm spacing |
Warning: beams of 45×45 mm as posts are too thin for a bunk bed. This is one of the most common mistakes. The posts carry the entire weight of the upper bed plus the person lying in it. With 70×70 mm you have sufficient stiffness to prevent sideways wobbling.
Material List and Tools
Materials (standard bunk bed 90×200 cm)
| Material | Quantity | Dimension | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Posts (pine) | 4 pieces | 70 x 70 x 1,700 mm | €40 – €60 |
| Side rails | 4 pieces | 45 x 90 x 2,020 mm | €30 – €45 |
| Cross beams | 4 pieces | 45 x 70 x 920 mm | €10 – €15 |
| Slatted base slats | 26 pieces (2×13) | 20 x 70 x 900 mm | €20 – €30 |
| Guardrail boards (top) | 4 pieces | 20 x 120 x 2,020 mm | €15 – €25 |
| Guardrail boards (ends) | 2 pieces | 20 x 120 x 920 mm | €5 – €10 |
| Ladder rails | 2 pieces | 45 x 70 x 1,400 mm | €8 – €12 |
| Ladder rungs | 4-5 pieces | 30 x 50 x 350 mm | €5 – €8 |
| Wood screws (6×80 mm) | ~60 pieces | Torx or Phillips | €8 – €12 |
| Bolts + nuts (M8x100) | 8 pieces | For post-to-rail connection | €10 – €15 |
| Wood glue (D3 or D4) | 1 bottle | 750 ml | €8 – €12 |
| Corner brackets (metal) | 8 pieces | 50 x 50 mm | €10 – €15 |
| Sandpaper | Various | 80, 120 and 180 grit | €5 – €8 |
| Varnish, stain or oil | 1-2 tins | Your choice | €15 – €30 |
| Estimated total | €189 – €297 |
Tools
Necessary:
– Cordless drill with drill and screw bits
– Circular saw or mitre saw (handheld circular saw is fine)
– Spirit level
– Combination square
– Tape measure (minimum 3 metres)
– Clamps (minimum 4, preferably 6)
– Sander (finishing sander or random orbit sander)
– Hammer
Handy but not required:
– Router (for rounding edges)
– Dowel drill + dowel centres (for invisible joints)
– Forstner bit (for countersunk bolt heads)
Step-by-Step Guide: Build a Bunk Bed in 10 Steps
Step 1: Make a Custom Building Plan
Draw your bed before buying timber. You need three measurements: the outer dimensions of the frame, the inner dimensions (matched to your mattress plus 1 cm clearance all round), and the total height including guardrail.
Work from the mattress size outward: mattress size + clearance = frame inner dimension. Inner dimension + 2x beam thickness = outer dimension. Note all measurements on your drawing, including drill hole positions.
Determine the height of the lower bed (top of slatted base approximately 30 cm from the floor) and the upper bed (top of slatted base approximately 130 cm from the floor). Check there’s at least 75 cm between the top of the lower bed mattress and the bottom of the upper bed, so your child can sit upright.
Step 2: Buy and Check Your Timber
Buy your timber at a DIY store or timber merchant. A timber merchant often supplies better quality and can cut to size. Check on arrival:
- Are the beams straight? Lay them on a flat surface and look along the length.
- Are there large knots where you’ll be drilling or screwing? Avoid those.
- Is the timber dry? Wet wood shrinks and warps. Ask about the moisture content (under 18% is fine).
Step 3: Cut All Parts to Size
Cut all parts according to your building plan. Use a mitre saw for square cuts. Number each part with pencil and note the position (e.g. “SR1 = side rail lower left”).
Cut the slatted base slats in one go to the same length: clamp a stop block to your saw so every slat is identical.
Step 4: Pre-sand All Parts
Sand all parts now, before assembly. After putting it together you won’t be able to reach everywhere. Use 80 grit to remove rough spots, then 120 grit for a smooth result, and 180 grit if you’re going to varnish.
Round all edges lightly with sandpaper or a router. Children grab everything, and sharp edges cause splinters.
Step 5: Assemble the Lower Frame
Start with the lower bed. Attach the two cross beams to the inside of the two side rails to create a rectangular frame. Use wood glue and two screws (6×80 mm) per joint.
Check with a combination square that all corners are 90 degrees before the glue dries. Measure the diagonals: if they’re equal, your frame is square.
Attach this frame to the four posts with M8 bolts. Pre-drill the holes with an 8 mm bit through both the post and the side rail. Insert a bolt with washer and nut. The bolt connection makes the bed demountable later (handy when moving).
Step 6: Assemble the Upper Frame
Repeat step 5 for the upper frame. Attach it at the desired height to the same four posts. Check with a spirit level that the upper frame is horizontal. Use bolts at all four corners, not screws. You want the connection to be unable to vibrate loose from movement in the bed.
Add metal corner brackets on the inside at the corners for extra security. Screw these on the inside so they’re not visible.
Step 7: Install the Slatted Bases
Lay the slats on the cross beams and space them evenly. With 13 slats per bed and an inside length of approximately 2,000 mm, expect a gap of about 65 mm (centre-to-centre approximately 135 mm). The gap must not exceed 70 mm (safety requirement).
Screw each slat with two screws (4×40 mm), one at each end. Use pre-drilled holes to prevent splitting, especially with spruce.
Step 8: Build and Attach the Guardrails
Mount the guardrail boards around the upper bed. Place two boards on top of each other if using 90 mm wide boards, or a single 120 mm board. The top edge of the guardrail must sit at least 35 cm above the top of the slatted base.
On one of the long sides, leave an opening of maximum 40 cm for the ladder. Check there are no gaps anywhere between 6 and 9 cm (entrapment risk for a child’s head).
Attach the guardrail boards to the posts with screws (5×60 mm) and wood glue.
Step 9: Build and Attach the Ladder
You have two options: a fixed ladder or a removable ladder.
| Fixed ladder | Removable ladder | |
|---|---|---|
| Safety | High: can’t shift | Lower: can slip |
| Flexibility | Fixed in one spot | Movable |
| Construction | Screwed to the frame | Hook system at the top |
| Recommendation | Children up to 10 | Teenagers and adults |
Building a fixed ladder: attach the two ladder rails at an angle against the upper frame (approximately 75-degree angle). Screw the rungs at equal spacing (maximum 30 cm apart, minimum 4 rungs). Attach the ladder rails with bolts to the upper frame and with screws to the floor or lower frame.
Building a removable ladder: make the ladder as a separate component. Add two hooks or notches at the top that grip over the side rail of the upper bed. Place anti-slip feet under the ladder rails.
Recommendation: choose a fixed ladder, especially if children under 10 are sleeping in it. Removable ladders are a common cause of accidents with bunk beds.
Step 10: Test the Structure
Before letting children sleep in the bed, test the structure:
- Stability test: push sideways with both hands against the upper bed. It shouldn’t move more than a few millimetres. Noticeable wobbling? Add diagonal braces to the back (a 20×70 mm slat diagonally from an upper corner to the opposite lower corner).
- Weight test: lie in the upper bed yourself. Move back and forth, sit up, roll over. Listen for creaking sounds. Creaking means connections aren’t tight enough: tighten screws or add glue.
- Guardrail test: push firmly against each guardrail board. No board should flex or come loose.
- Ladder test: stand on every rung. The ladder shouldn’t shift or creak.
Finishing: Protecting and Looking Good
After construction comes the finish. This isn’t cosmetic: a good finish protects the wood from moisture, dirt and wear.
Option 1: Stain + clear varnish (most popular)
Apply a colour stain in the desired shade. Let dry. Then apply two coats of clear varnish (water-based, child-safe). Sand lightly between coats with 180 grit.
Option 2: Opaque paint
Prime the wood with a primer coat. Apply two coats of opaque paint in the desired colour. Choose a water-based paint with low VOC content (children’s room).
Option 3: Hard wax oil (natural)
Apply two coats of hard wax oil. This shows the wood structure and feels natural. Less protection against stains than varnish, but easy to touch up.
Option 4: Leave untreated
Possible, but the wood gets dirty quickly and splinters sooner. Not recommended for a children’s bed.
Whichever option you choose: always use products that comply with EN 71-3 (toy safety) or a comparable standard. Regular stain and varnish can contain substances that aren’t suitable for children’s furniture.
8 Common Mistakes When Building a Bunk Bed
1. Posts (legs) too thin
The most common mistake. Posts of 45×45 mm are too thin. The bed wobbles sideways with every movement. Use at least 70×70 mm, for a 3-high bed at least 90×90 mm.
2. Only screws, no bolts
Screws in end grain (the end of a beam) hold poorly. The connection between posts and side rails is the most stressed point of the entire bed. Use M8 bolts with washer and nut here. Screws are fine for slats and guardrails, not for the main structure.
3. No diagonal bracing
A rectangular frame without diagonal braces is unstable. It can move sideways like a parallelogram. Attach at least two diagonal braces to the back (not visible) or use a solid back panel of plywood.
4. Guardrail too low
Many DIY builders measure guardrail height without a mattress. With a 15 cm mattress in it, you lose 15 cm of effective guardrail height. Always measure the height above the mattress, not above the slatted base.
5. Too large gaps between slats
Slats with more than 70 mm spacing are dangerous for young children (entrapment) and provide insufficient support for the mattress. The mattress sags, which is bad for the back and sleep comfort.
6. Not pre-drilling
Screwing into pine or spruce without pre-drilling causes splitting. Especially at the ends of a plank or beam. Always pre-drill with a bit slightly thinner than the screw thread.
7. Not anchoring the bed to the wall
A tall bunk bed that isn’t anchored to the wall can tip over during rough play or climbing. Secure the bed with at least two wall anchors to a load-bearing wall. Use plugs suitable for your wall type (brick, plasterboard, concrete).
8. Using the wrong glue
Standard wood glue (D1/D2) is not moisture-resistant. In a children’s room with varying humidity use at least D3 glue, preferably D4 if the bed may also be in an unheated room.
Frequently Asked Questions
How high should a bunk bed be?
The total height of a standard bunk bed is 160-180 cm. The upper bed sits at approximately 130 cm height (top of slatted base), the lower bed at approximately 30 cm. Keep at least 75 cm free space between the mattress surface of the lower bed and the bottom of the upper bed frame, so your child can sit upright.
Can I build a bunk bed from scaffold board?
Yes, but be selective. Used scaffold board may have been treated with harmful substances. Buy new, untreated scaffold board and sand it thoroughly. Scaffold board is typically spruce of reasonable quality. Check the beam thicknesses: standard scaffold planks (32 mm thick) are too thin for posts, but fine for guardrails and cladding.
How many slats does the slatted base need?
Minimum 13 slats for a 90 cm wide bed. Space them evenly with maximum 70 mm gaps. More slats (15-17) give extra support and comfort, but aren’t strictly necessary.
Is a building plan required?
Not legally, but strongly recommended. A building plan prevents measuring mistakes, purchasing errors and structural problems. You can find free bunk bed building plans online, or make your own based on the dimensions in this article.
Which mattress is best for a bunk bed?
For the upper bed choose a foam or pocket spring mattress of maximum 15 cm thick. Thicker mattresses reduce the effective guardrail height. For the lower bed the mattress can be thicker (up to 20 cm). Watch the weight: a heavy mattress is hard to lift to the upper bed.
Can an adult sleep in a bunk bed?
Yes, provided the structure is rated for the weight. Design the upper bed for at least 150 kg load capacity for an adult. Use thicker side rails (45×120 mm instead of 45×90 mm) and consider extra cross beams in the middle.
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