Replacing a toilet costs between €80 and €400 in materials (depending on the model), plus any tools you may not already own. A plumber charges €150 to €300 for the fitting work alone. Doing it yourself saves you half a day’s work and two to three times the cost. Replacing a toilet is well within reach of a competent DIYer — you don’t need to solder or cut any pipes. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide.
DIY vs. Plumber: Cost Comparison
| DIY | Plumber | |
|---|---|---|
| **Replacing a standard toilet** | €80 – €300 (toilet) | €230 – €600 (toilet + labour) |
| **Replacing a concealed cistern** | €150 – €400 | €400 – €800 |
| **Time investment** | 2–4 hours | 1–2 hours |
| **Saving** | €150 – €300 | — |
Which Toilet to Choose?
Close-coupled toilet (exposed cistern)
The most traditional type. A separate ceramic cistern sitting on the back of the pan or fixed to the wall. Cheaper than a concealed cistern system but takes up more room.
Price: €80 – €300
Wall-hung toilet (concealed cistern)
The pan is wall-mounted, with the cistern built into a frame behind the wall. More modern and easier to clean, but requires an existing concealed cistern frame (or a new frame to be installed).
Pan price: €100 – €600 | Concealed cistern frame: €100 – €300
Compact / combination toilet
Pan and cistern are a single combined unit. A good choice for small cloakrooms and WCs.
Price: €100 – €350
Materials Required
| Material | Price |
|---|---|
| New toilet (of your choice) | €80 – €600 |
| WC pan connector / wax ring or rubber seal | €5 – €15 |
| Flexible supply hose (30–40 cm) | €5 – €15 |
| Isolating valve (if not already present) | €10 – €25 |
| Sanitary silicone sealant | €8 – €15 |
| Screws / anchor bolts | €5 – €10 |
| **Total** | **€113 – €680** |
Tools
- Adjustable spanner / open-ended spanner
- Cordless drill + masonry bit
- Spirit level
- Bucket and cloth (for emptying the cistern)
- Cable and pipe detector (to locate pipes in floor/wall)
Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing a Toilet in 6 Steps
Step 1: Isolate the water and empty the cistern
Turn off the water supply. Use the isolating valve behind or beneath the toilet (turn clockwise = closed). If there is no isolating valve, turn off the mains stop tap.
Flush several times to empty the cistern. Remove the remaining water with a sponge. This avoids a flood when you disconnect the fittings.
Step 2: Disconnect the water supply and the soil pipe
Water supply: unscrew the supply hose from the cistern. Keep a cloth handy — there is always a little water left in the hose.
Soil pipe connection: the toilet pan connects to the soil pipe via a rubber pan connector or a rigid PVC coupler. Gently twist the pan and pull it free. For a rigid coupler: either cut through it or unscrew it.
Note: the soil pipe will smell. Stuff an old rag into the open pipe while you remove the toilet — this prevents unpleasant odours.
Step 3: Remove the old toilet
Unscrew the floor bolts (the screws securing the pan to the floor). Lift the toilet pan clear and set it aside. Dispose of the old toilet via a skip, a household waste recycling centre or a reclamation yard.
Cleaning: remove the old pan connector or wax ring seal and clean the floor around the soil pipe opening.
Step 4: Install the new toilet
Check dimensions: will the new toilet sit on the same connection points as the old one? Check the projection from the wall to the soil pipe centre and the position of the water supply.
Fit a new wax ring or rubber pan connector to the soil pipe opening. Position the new toilet over the floor bolts and press it firmly down so the seal compresses properly.
Tighten the floor bolts — not too tight, porcelain cracks under excessive force. Tighten until the pan is firm and doesn’t rock.
Step 5: Connect the water supply
Connect the flexible supply hose to the cistern inlet (at the bottom) and to the isolating valve. Tighten hand-tight, then turn a further quarter-turn with the spanner. Do not overtighten — the hose will deform and leak later.
Open the isolating valve (turn anticlockwise). Check immediately for leaks at all connections. Allow the cistern to fill and then flush. Check: does the water drain away properly and does the cistern stop filling at the right level?
Step 6: Seal the base
Apply a thin bead of clear or white sanitary silicone sealant around the base of the toilet (where it meets the floor). Smooth with a wet finger. This prevents moisture from seeping under the toilet and damaging the floor.
Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before using the toilet.
Repairing or Replacing a Concealed Cistern
A concealed cistern that doesn’t flush properly or keeps running can almost always be repaired without replacing the toilet.
Common problems:
- Keeps running after flushing: float or fill valve faulty → replace the fill valve (€15–€30, a 30-minute job)
- Doesn’t flush properly: water pressure too low or flush button faulty → check the water pressure and the flush button
- Leaking at the flush button: flush valve seal faulty → replace the flush mechanism (€20–€50)
Replacement parts are brand-specific — note down the make and model of the cistern before going to the builders’ merchant.
Common Mistakes
- Not turning off the water before dismantling. Seems obvious but gets forgotten — with wet feet as the result.
- Not replacing the pan connector or wax ring. Always use a new seal — an old one no longer forms a proper seal.
- Overtightening the floor bolts. Porcelain cracks under too much torque. Tighten until firm, no further.
- Not checking the supply hose. Fit a new hose if in any doubt — a leaking hose behind the toilet causes serious water damage.
- Not testing before sealing. Always confirm everything is working properly before you start sealing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Am I allowed to replace a toilet myself?
Yes. Replacing a toilet does not require planning permission or a licensed tradesperson. You may do the complete job yourself, including connecting the supply hose (with an isolating valve). Only if soldering pipework or altering the mains supply is necessary should a registered plumber be involved.
How long does it take to replace a toilet?
With proper preparation (everything to hand), a toilet can be replaced in 2–3 hours. Unexpected complications (a seized soil pipe coupler, damaged floor bolts) can extend this to half a day.
Which toilet brand is reliable?
Duravit, Villeroy & Boch, Geberit and Grohe are among the most reliable brands. For budget options, brands such as Roca and Ideal Standard offer good quality for the price. Avoid unbranded toilets — spare parts are difficult to source when something goes wrong.
How do I remove a floor tile if the toilet is siliconed to it?
Use a bolster chisel and club hammer, or an oscillating multi-tool to cut through the sealant. Work carefully to avoid damaging the tiling. For heavily bonded toilets: gently warm the silicone with a heat gun.
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