Laying laminate flooring costs an average of $18 to $60 per m² in materials (laminate + underlay) if you do it yourself. Having it professionally laid costs $35 to $95 per m², including labour. For an average living room of 25 m² (270 sq ft), you’ll pay $450 to $1,500 in materials doing it yourself. Laying laminate is one of the most accessible DIY projects: with a click system, the right underlay and a free day, you can lay an entire room. In this guide, you’ll learn everything about costs, underlay choices, laying directions and follow a complete step-by-step plan.
What Does Laminate Flooring Cost? DIY vs. Professional
Cost Per Square Metre
| DIY (materials) | Professional (materials + labour) | |
|---|---|---|
| Budget laminate (AC3, 7 mm) | $10 – $18/m² | $30 – $50/m² |
| Mid-range laminate (AC4, 8 mm) | $18 – $30/m² | $40 – $65/m² |
| Premium laminate (AC5, 10–12 mm) | $30 – $55/m² | $60 – $95/m² |
| Underlay (separate) | $2 – $10/m² | Included |
Total Costs for Common Room Sizes
| Area | DIY (mid-range) | Professional (mid-range) | DIY Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15 m² / 160 sq ft (bedroom) | $300 – $600 | $630 – $1,000 | $250 – $450 |
| 25 m² / 270 sq ft (living room) | $500 – $1,000 | $1,050 – $1,650 | $450 – $700 |
| 40 m² / 430 sq ft (living/dining) | $800 – $1,600 | $1,680 – $2,640 | $700 – $1,200 |
| 80 m² / 860 sq ft (whole home) | $1,600 – $3,200 | $3,360 – $5,280 | $1,400 – $2,400 |
When Does DIY Pay Off?
Always. Laying laminate is one of the easiest home improvement jobs. Modern click laminate clicks together without glue or special tools. Labour from a professional fitter costs $18 to $35 per m² — that’s $450 to $900 saved for a 25 m² living room. The only situation where hiring a professional makes more sense is if you want an entire home fitted including skirting boards, thresholds and transition strips, and you don’t fancy spending a whole week on it.
Choosing an Underlay: The Foundation of a Good Result
The underlay is at least as important as the laminate itself. A good underlay dampens sound, evens out small imperfections and protects against moisture from below.
Underlay Types Compared
| Type | Thickness | Sound Dampening | Levelling | Moisture Barrier | Price per m² | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PE foam (basic) | 2–3 mm | Fair | Minimal | Yes (vapour retardant) | $1 – $3 | Budget, concrete ground floor |
| PU foam (rubber) | 2–3 mm | Good | Good (up to 1 mm) | No (separate film needed) | $4 – $7 | Wooden subfloor, upper floors |
| Rubber (cork-rubber) | 2–3 mm | Very good | Good (up to 1 mm) | No (separate film needed) | $5 – $10 | Apartments, sound insulation important |
| XPS (polystyrene boards) | 3–5 mm | Good | Good (up to 2 mm) | No (separate film needed) | $3 – $5 | Concrete floor, cold floor |
| Laminate with integrated underlay | N/A | Average | Minimal | Varies | +$4 – $10 on laminate price | Convenience, quick laying |
Which Underlay Should You Choose?
On a concrete floor (ground floor): PE foam with built-in moisture barrier, or separate PE film (0.2 mm) + XPS boards. Concrete can transmit moisture, so a moisture barrier is mandatory.
On a concrete floor (upper floor, apartment): Rubber or cork-rubber underlay + separate PE film. Sound insulation is essential here — your neighbours will hear every step otherwise.
On a wooden (tongue-and-groove) floor: PU foam underlay without moisture film. Wood needs to breathe. A moisture film on wood can cause moisture build-up.
With underfloor heating: Thin underlay (maximum 3 mm) with low thermal resistance (max 0.05 m²K/W). The thicker the underlay, the less heat gets through. PE foam or thin rubber underlay is suitable. Check the thermal resistance on the packaging.
Acclimatisation: Why and How Long
Laminate is a wood-based product (wood fibre core) that expands and contracts with temperature and humidity changes. If you lay cold laminate straight from the packaging, it will shrink or expand after a few days — resulting in gaps or buckling.
How to Acclimatise Laminate
- Place the unopened packs of laminate in the room where you’ll be laying it
- Make sure the heating is at normal level (18–22°C / 64–72°F)
- Leave the packs for at least 48 hours — 72 hours is better
- Only open the packs when you’re ready to start laying
Common mistake: Opening the packs and spreading the planks out individually “to acclimatise better”. This isn’t necessary and takes up unnecessary space. Leave the packs sealed.
Laying Direction: Which Way?
The laying direction determines how the room looks and feels. There’s no technical difference — it’s purely aesthetic.
Three Options
| Laying Direction | Effect | When to Choose |
|---|---|---|
| Parallel to the window (light direction) | Seams less visible, calm appearance | Most popular, recommended by manufacturers |
| Perpendicular to the window | Seams visible, room appears wider | Making narrow rooms look wider |
| Diagonal (45°) | Playful, room appears larger | Square rooms, design effect |
The safe choice: Parallel to the window (the planks run in the same direction as the light). The seams then fall in shadow and are less visible. This is the standard and looks best in 95% of situations.
For an open-plan space (living room through to kitchen): Lay the planks along the length of the longest space. This gives the most depth effect.
Materials List: Laying Laminate in a 25 m² Room
Materials
| Material | Quantity | Approx. Price |
|---|---|---|
| Laminate (AC4, 8 mm, click) | 28 m² (25 m² + 10% cutting waste) | $500 – $840 |
| Underlay (PE foam with moisture barrier) | 27 m² (1 roll) | $65 – $130 |
| Skirting boards (MDF, 12×60 mm) | 20 metres | $35 – $60 |
| Expansion spacers (10 mm) | 40 pieces | $5 – $12 |
| Transition strip (doorway) | 2 pieces | $12 – $30 |
| Caulk (colour-matched to skirting) | 1 tube | $5 – $10 |
Total material costs: $625 – $1,085
Tools
| Tool | Note |
|---|---|
| Jigsaw or circular saw | Cutting planks to length |
| Tape measure (5 m) | |
| Pencil | |
| Expansion spacers | 10 mm expansion gap along walls |
| Pull bar | Pulling last plank tight |
| Tapping block (or piece of laminate) | Tapping planks together without damaging the click |
| Rubber mallet | |
| Carpenter’s square | |
| Utility knife | Cutting underlay |
Save on tools: Don’t have a jigsaw? Most hardware stores rent them for $18 to $30 per day. Or use a sharp handsaw — slower but works fine.
Step-by-Step: Laying Laminate Flooring in 8 Steps
Step 1: Check the Subfloor and Acclimatise
- Check the subfloor (concrete or wood) is flat: maximum 3 mm height difference per running metre. Use a long straight edge and a spirit level
- If more than 3 mm difference: level the floor with self-levelling compound (concrete) or sand down high spots (wood)
- Check the moisture content of a concrete floor with a moisture meter — maximum 2.0% CM value for laminate
- Make sure the laminate packs have been in the room for at least 48 hours
Step 2: Lay the Underlay
- Start at the wall and roll out the underlay in the laying direction of the laminate
- Lay the strips with 20 cm overlap (if the underlay has a moisture barrier) or butted together (if using separate film)
- Tape the seams with special underlay tape — this prevents shifting
- Trim the underlay at the walls with a utility knife
With separate moisture film: First lay the PE film with 20 cm overlap, tape the seams and then lay the underlay on top.
Step 3: Start the First Row
- Start in the corner of the room, at the window side
- Lay the first plank with the groove side facing the wall
- Place 10 mm expansion spacers between the plank and the wall — this is the expansion gap. Laminate expands with heat and moisture; without this gap it will buckle
- Click the next plank into the short end of the first plank
- Continue to the end of the row
- Cut the last plank to size — use the offcut as the start of the next row (if at least 30 cm long)
Step 4: Lay the Subsequent Rows
- Start the second row with the offcut from the first row — this creates a staggered pattern
- Maintain at least 30 cm stagger between the end joints of two adjacent rows
- Hold the plank at an angle (20–30°) and click the long side into the previous row
- Press the plank flat until the click locks
- Tap the end joint tight with a tapping block and rubber mallet — never strike the laminate directly
Click system type: Most laminates use an angle-angle system (both sides click in at an angle) or angle-drop system (long side at an angle, short side press down). Read the installation instructions for your specific laminate — it varies by brand.
Step 5: Cut Around Obstacles
- At door frames: saw into the frame 2–3 mm with a multitool or handsaw, so the laminate slides underneath. Place a piece of laminate + underlay against the frame as a height reference
- At heating pipes: drill a hole with a hole saw (pipe diameter + 20 mm) and cut the plank in two to fit around it. Glue the cut piece with wood glue. Cover the hole with a pipe collar
- At corners and protruding walls: trace the shape onto the plank and cut out with a jigsaw
Step 6: Lay the Last Row
- Measure the width needed — the distance from the second-to-last row to the wall, minus 10 mm expansion gap
- Mark the width on the plank and cut to size
- Click or slide the plank in and pull tight with a pull bar
- Place expansion spacers between the last row and the wall
Step 7: Fit Skirting Boards and Transition Strips
- Leave the laminate for 24 hours before fitting skirting boards
- Remove all expansion spacers
- Fix the skirting boards to the wall (not to the laminate!) with skirting clips, adhesive or small nails
- Fit transition strips in doorways — screw the base rail into the floor and click the profile on
- Caulk the top of the skirting boards where needed
Step 8: Finishing and Inspection
- Walk the entire floor and check all click connections are secure
- Check there are no gaps at the seams
- Vacuum the floor and clean with a damp (not wet) mop — laminate is not waterproof
Laminate with Underfloor Heating: What to Watch For
Not every laminate is suitable for underfloor heating. Pay attention to the following:
- Check the symbol on the packaging — laminate suitable for underfloor heating carries the appropriate pictogram
- Maximum floor temperature: the surface temperature must not exceed 27°C (80°F). Set the thermostat accordingly
- Underlay with low thermal resistance: maximum 0.05 m²K/W. The thinner the underlay, the better the heat transfer
- Total thermal resistance: laminate + underlay together maximum 0.15 m²K/W
- Turn the underfloor heating off 48 hours before laying and 48 hours after laying. Then gradually increase (maximum 5°C / 9°F per day)
Laminate Classes: What Quality Do You Need?
Laminate is classified by abrasion class (AC rating). The higher the class, the more wear-resistant.
| Class | Wear Resistance | Suitable for | Lifespan | Price per m² |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AC3 (Class 31) | Light residential | Bedroom, guest room | 5–10 years | $10 – $18 |
| AC4 (Class 32) | Normal residential | Living room, hallway, kitchen | 10–15 years | $18 – $30 |
| AC5 (Class 33) | Heavy residential / light commercial | Busy living room, office, shop | 15–25 years | $30 – $55 |
Best choice for the living room: AC4 (Class 32) in 8 mm thickness. This is the sweet spot between price and quality. Lasts 10–15 years with normal household use.
Don’t skimp on the hallway and kitchen: These see the most foot traffic. AC3 laminate wears through in the hallway within 5 years. Choose at least AC4.
Popular brands (2026): Quick-Step (Impressive, Majestic), Meister, Kronotex, Egger. Quick-Step Impressive is the best-selling laminate line internationally — good value, attractive designs, reliable click system.
Renting vs. Buying Tools
| Tool | Buy | Rent (per day) | Advice |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jigsaw | $50 – $120 | $18 – $30 | Rent if you rarely use it |
| Circular saw | $70 – $180 | $25 – $35 | Buy if you do more DIY |
| Pull bar | $10 – $18 | — | Always buy (cheap, often needed) |
| Tapping block | $5 – $12 | — | Always buy |
| Expansion spacers set | $5 – $12 | — | Always buy |
Tip: Some hardware stores lend tools when you buy the laminate from them. Ask at purchase.
Common Mistakes When Laying Laminate
1. Not Leaving an Expansion Gap
The number one mistake. Without 8–10 mm of space along all walls, door frames and fixed objects, laminate will buckle in warmth or humidity. Always use expansion spacers.
2. Not Acclimatising
Laying cold laminate straight from the car leads to shrinkage and gaps after a few weeks. Let the packs acclimatise in the room for at least 48 hours.
3. Forgetting the Underlay or Choosing the Wrong One
On concrete without a moisture barrier? The laminate absorbs moisture from below and swells. On wood with a moisture barrier? The wood can’t breathe and starts to rot. Choose the right underlay for your situation.
4. Not Enough Stagger
If the end joints almost line up, it looks ugly and is structurally weaker. Maintain at least 30 cm stagger. Check this with every row.
5. Fixing Skirting Boards to the Laminate
Skirting boards belong on the wall, not on the laminate. If you screw or nail skirting boards to the laminate, the flooring can no longer move freely and will buckle.
6. Laying Laminate Through Doorways Without a Transition Strip
Doorways need a transition strip. Without one, the laminate can’t expand and you get gaps or bumps. It also looks untidy.
Frequently Asked Questions About Laying Laminate
How much does it cost to lay laminate yourself?
Expect $18 to $60 per m² for materials (laminate + underlay + skirting boards). For a 25 m² living room, you’ll pay $500 to $1,000 doing it yourself. Having it professionally laid costs $1,050 to $1,650.
How long does laying laminate take?
A 25 m² room takes 4 to 8 hours if you have some experience. A beginner takes 6 to 10 hours. An entire home (80 m²) takes 2–3 days.
What is the best underlay for laminate?
On concrete: PE foam with built-in moisture barrier. On wood: PU foam without moisture barrier. In an apartment: rubber or cork-rubber for maximum sound insulation. With underfloor heating: thin underlay with low thermal resistance.
Can I lay laminate on tiles?
Yes, as long as the tiles are flat (maximum 3 mm height difference per metre). Lay underlay over the tiles and place the laminate on top. Loose or domed tiles must be levelled or removed first.
How long does laminate need to acclimatise?
At least 48 hours, preferably 72 hours. Leave the unopened packs in the room at normal room temperature (18–22°C / 64–72°F).
Building Plans and Guides
Ready to get started with professional building plans and step-by-step guides? Check out the complete building plans package at fredsdiyplans.com — with thousands of plans for every DIY project.
Schema markup (for developer):
– Article schema
– HowTo schema (8 steps)
– FAQPage schema (5 questions)
Internal links to add:
– → how-to-lay-vinyl-flooring (new article)
– → how-to-build-a-workbench (existing article)
Word count: ~2,700 words