Replacing guttering yourself costs €5 to €25 per linear metre in materials, depending on the type. PVC gutters are the cheapest option (€5–€10/m), zinc gutters are the premium choice (€15–€25/m). Having it done by a professional? Expect to pay €30 to €60 per linear metre including labour. Replacing 10 metres of guttering yourself saves you €250 to €450. It is a job that most DIYers can handle confidently, provided you can work safely from scaffolding or a ladder. This article provides a complete step-by-step guide.
DIY vs. Professional: Cost Comparison
| DIY | Roofer / Contractor | |
|---|---|---|
| **PVC guttering (10 metres)** | €60 – €120 | €350 – €600 |
| **Zinc guttering (10 metres)** | €180 – €280 | €600 – €1,000 |
| **Including downpipe (5 m)** | +€30 – €60 | +€100 – €200 |
| **Saving** | 50–65% | — |
Which Type of Guttering Should You Choose?
PVC guttering (most commonly used)
The cheapest and most widely used guttering. Available in many colours and profiles. Easy to install and requires very little maintenance.
Advantages: inexpensive, lightweight, rust-free, colour-stable (with quality brands)
Disadvantages: more brittle in frost (cheap quality), expansion in heat
Price: €4 – €8 per linear metre | Lifespan: 15–30 years (brand quality)
Brands: Wavin, Roofix, Hunter
Zinc guttering
The premium option. Has been used for centuries, looks excellent and lasts 50–80 years.
Advantages: durable, high-quality appearance, minimal expansion, fully recyclable
Disadvantages: more expensive, heavier, requires more experience to install
Price: €12 – €25 per linear metre | Lifespan: 50–80 years
Aluminium guttering
A good middle ground: lighter than zinc, cheaper than zinc, more durable than PVC.
Advantages: rust-free, lightweight, weather-resistant
Disadvantages: more expensive than PVC, less attractive than zinc
Price: €8 – €15 per linear metre | Lifespan: 25–40 years
Materials Required (PVC, 10 metres of guttering)
| Material | Quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Gutter profile (PVC 125 mm) | 10 metres | €40 – €80 |
| Gutter brackets | 10–12 pieces | €8 – €15 |
| End caps (left + right) | 2 pieces | €4 – €8 |
| Outlet / downpipe connector | 1–2 pieces | €5 – €10 |
| Downpipe (dia. 80/100 mm) | 4–5 metres | €15 – €30 |
| Connectors / elbows | 2–3 pieces | €10 – €20 |
| Pipe clips | 5 pieces | €5 – €10 |
| Gutter sealant (flexible) | 1 tube | €6 – €10 |
| **Total** | **€93 – €183** |
Step-by-Step Guide: Replace Guttering in 8 Steps
Step 1: Safety first
Always work from a stable scaffold tower or a secure ladder. Use ladder standoffs at roof edges. Never work alone at height and watch out for windy conditions.
Tools: drill with wall plugs, spirit level, tape measure, saw (for PVC), plumb line.
Step 2: Remove the old guttering
Take down the old guttering by unclipping the connectors (PVC) or unscrewing the gutter brackets. Note: old gutters can be full of water, dirt and leaves — be prepared for an unpleasant mess.
Remove the old brackets too. Check the condition of the fascia board (the timber behind the gutter). If it is rotten or cracked: repair or replace it before fitting the new guttering.
Step 3: Establish the fall
Gutters must have a slight fall towards the downpipe — otherwise water pools, the gutter overflows or freezes in winter.
Guideline: 2–5 mm fall per metre of gutter. For a 10-metre gutter with a downpipe at the end: the starting point (at the ridge end) should be 2–5 cm higher than the end point (at the downpipe).
Stretch a string line from the highest point (start) to the lowest point (downpipe) and use this as a reference line for the brackets.
Step 4: Fix the gutter brackets
Screw the gutter brackets to the fascia board, 80–90 cm apart. Use stainless steel screws (2 per bracket) to prevent rust. Follow the string reference line to achieve the correct fall.
First bracket: start with the bracket furthest from the downpipe (the highest point). Adjust the bracket angle to match the correct pitch of the roof.
Step 5: Lay the guttering
Click or slide the guttering into the brackets. Join sections with connectors (for PVC: make sure the rubber seals are correctly seated before clicking together). Apply a thin bead of gutter sealant to the inside of the connectors for extra water-tightness.
Fix the end caps to the ends. Make sure the sealant is properly applied all around the end cap.
Step 6: Fit the outlet and downpipe
Cut a hole in the guttering at the outlet position. Fit the outlet using the supplied fixings. Apply sealant around the joint.
Secure the downpipe to the wall with pipe clips (one clip every 1.5–2 metres). Use elbows for the transition from the vertical downpipe to the horizontal connection at the drain or soakaway.
Step 7: Test with water
Pour a bucket of water into the gutter at the highest point. Check:
- Does the water flow towards the downpipe (no puddles)?
- Is there no leakage at connectors or end caps?
- Does the downpipe drain properly?
Adjust the fall if water moves too slowly or in the wrong direction.
Step 8: Finishing
Seal the gap between the guttering and the wall with flexible sealant if a slot remains. Remove surplus sealant with a sealant knife.
Repairing Guttering: Minor Problems
You don’t always need to replace the entire gutter. Minor problems are easy to fix:
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Small leak at connector | Remove, clean, re-seal and refit |
| Small crack in PVC gutter | Gutter repair tape (temporary) or replace a section of PVC gutter |
| Gutter hanging at an angle | Adjust brackets or add an extra bracket |
| Downpipe blocked | Remove leaves, flush the downpipe with a hosepipe |
| Zinc gutter has a leak | Apply cold-pour zinc sealant |
Maintenance: How Long Will Your Guttering Last?
- PVC (quality brand): 15–30 years with regular cleaning
- Aluminium: 25–40 years
- Zinc: 50–80 years
Cleaning: Flush the gutters through once a year (leaves and debris block the downpipe). Use a gutter cleaning tool or simply a hosepipe.
Common Mistakes
- Too little fall. Water pools, freezes in winter and the gutter overflows in heavy rain.
- Brackets too far apart. With more than 90 cm spacing the gutter sags, especially under the weight of snow.
- No sealant at connectors. Leakage at joints is one of the most common problems.
- Using ordinary screws. These rust after 5–10 years — always use stainless steel.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know whether to replace or repair my gutters?
Small leaks, loose joints and minor cracks: repair. Large cracks, multiple leaks, rusted-through zinc gutters or broken PVC: full replacement is cheaper than multiple repairs.
How much fall should a gutter have?
2–5 mm per metre is ideal. More fall is unnecessary and looks unsightly. Less than 2 mm is insufficient and leads to water build-up.
Can I fit PVC gutters on a steeply pitched roof?
Yes. The gutter brackets are adjustable — you set the angle to match the pitch of the roof. Ask at your builders’ merchant for adjustable gutter brackets.
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