Staining wood is the most widely used method for protecting and colouring timber — both indoors and outdoors. Stain penetrates deep into the wood and protects it from within, unlike paint which forms a film on the surface. This makes stain more durable and easier to maintain than paint: no peeling layers, far simpler to touch up. In this article you’ll find out which type of stain to use when, how to apply it correctly and which products perform best.
Stain vs Paint: When Should You Choose Which?
| Stain | Paint | |
|---|---|---|
| **Penetration** | Deep into the wood | Surface film |
| **Wood grain visible?** | Yes (transparent or semi-opaque) | No (fully opaque) |
| **Maintenance** | Easier (top up) | Peels → full stripping required |
| **Outdoors** | Recommended (flexible) | Possible but more maintenance |
| **Indoors** | Good for furniture and floors | Good for surfaces |
| **Colour choice** | Wide | Wide |
Choose stain when: you want to retain the wood grain, or when working outdoors (garden furniture, fencing, decking, window frames).
Choose paint when: you want a complete colour change or a high-gloss, smooth finish (high-gloss window frames, furniture).
Types of Stain
Transparent Stain
Almost colourless — the timber colour and grain remain fully visible. Maximum protection with minimal colour change.
Best for: oak, walnut, teak and other premium timbers with an attractive grain.
Example products: Sikkens Cetol BL, Xyladecor Transparent
Semi-Transparent (Tinted) Stain
The grain is still visible but the timber colour is changed or enhanced. A wide range of colours available.
Best for: Douglas fir, larch, pine — to even out natural variations and blemishes.
Example products: Xyladecor Classic, Remmers HK Lasur
Opaque Stain
The grain is no longer visible, but the stain remains penetrating (not film-forming like paint). Greater protection and an even colour result.
Best for: used and weathered timber, heavily variable timber, window frames you want to change colour.
Example products: Sikkens Rubbol BL, Flexa Outdoor Stain Opaque
Specialist Stains
- Scaffold board / grey-wash stain — creates a weathered, grey appearance
- Whitewash stain — a light, white haze over the timber
- Floor stain — specially formulated for timber floors (more abrasion-resistant)
Required Materials
| Material | Price |
|---|---|
| Sandpaper 80–120–180 grit | €5 – €15 |
| Good exterior stain (1 litre) | €12 – €25 |
| Wide brush (60–80 mm, synthetic) | €5 – €20 |
| Cleaning cloth | €2 – €5 |
| Masking tape | €3 – €7 |
| **Total** | **€27 – €72** |
Step-by-Step Guide: Staining Wood in 6 Steps
Step 1: Clean the Surface
Remove all dirt, grease, loose old stain and green algae. Use water with washing-up liquid and a stiff brush. For green algae: use a fungicidal cleaner (oxalic acid or exterior timber cleaner) and leave to work for 10–15 minutes.
Allow the timber to dry completely — at least 24–48 hours in dry weather. Damp wood will not accept stain properly.
Step 2: Sand the Surface
Sand along the grain. Use:
- New timber: grit 120–150 (to open the surface)
- Old timber with existing stain: grit 80–100 (to remove loose stain), then 150
- Smooth, planed timber: grit 60–80 (to open the grain so the stain can penetrate deeper)
Remove the dust with a dry cloth or compressed air.
Step 3: Test on an Inconspicuous Area
Always test the stain first on an inconspicuous area (underside, back face). Leave to dry and check the colour — dried stain looks different from wet stain. Happy with the result? Then continue with the rest.
Step 4: Apply the First Coat
Always work with the grain and from top to bottom. Dip the brush a third of the way into the stain and wipe off the excess on the rim. Apply the stain in long, even strokes.
Important: work “wet on wet” — work quickly enough that the wet edge does not dry before the next stroke is applied. Dried edges show up as visible streaks.
Allow the stain to soak in fully — with a penetrating stain you can see the timber “drinking in” the product. Any excess stain that does not soak in: dab away with a dry cloth before it dries.
Step 5: Respect the Drying Time
Follow the drying time on the packaging. Typical times:
- Water-based stain: 2–4 hours
- Solvent-based stain: 4–8 hours
Never work in direct sunlight or at temperatures above 25 °C — the stain dries too quickly and results in streaking.
Step 6: Second (and Possibly Third) Coat
Most stains give adequate protection after 2 coats. Lightly sand between coats (grit 180–220) for better adhesion.
For opaque stain: 2 coats is standard. For transparent stain: 1–2 coats, depending on the depth of finish desired.
Maintenance: How Long Does Stain Last?
| Application | Interval |
|---|---|
| Garden furniture (outdoors) | 1–2 years |
| Fencing (in full sun) | 1–2 years |
| Window frames | 3–5 years (opaque stain) |
| Decking (heavy foot traffic) | 1 year |
| Dormer windows, cladding | 3–5 years |
Maintenance tip: at the first sign of fading or dull patches (where the stain has lost its protective properties), touch up. Refreshing is far easier than a full strip-back once the stain has been badly neglected.
Common Mistakes
- Staining damp wood. Stain will not adhere to damp timber — results in white patches and peeling.
- Ignoring the stain’s drying time. Applying the second coat too soon results in tacky layers that do not cure properly.
- Working in full sun. Stain dries too quickly and leaves visible streaks.
- Working against the grain. Always go with the grain — working against it causes uneven colour in the grain pattern.
- Not stirring the stain. Pigments settle to the bottom — always stir thoroughly before use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between oiling and staining wood?
Stain colours and protects at the same time. Oil protects and nourishes the wood but adds very little colour (some oils darken the timber slightly). Oil penetrates deeper but offers less protection than stain. Combine both: stain for colour and protection, then oil for extra nourishment.
Can I apply a light stain over a dark one?
No — you cannot make timber lighter by staining. Stain can only darken. Want to go from dark to light? The timber must be sanded back to bare wood.
How much stain do I need per m²?
Guide for first coat: 8–12 m² per litre (porous timber absorbs more). Second coat: 10–15 m² per litre. For rough scaffold boards or very porous timber: allow extra.
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