Replacing a kitchen worktop yourself costs €50 to €400 in materials, depending on the type of worktop. Having the work done professionally will cost €150 to €600 including fitting. Doing it yourself saves you €100 to €300 — and you get to choose exactly the finish you want. Replacing a kitchen worktop is a very manageable DIY project — the most demanding part is cutting the sink aperture. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide.
DIY vs. professional: cost comparison
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| **Laminate/HPL worktop (3m)** | €80 – €200 | €250 – €450 |
| **Solid oak worktop (3m)** | €200 – €400 | €500 – €900 |
| **Composite/quartz (3m)** | €500 – €1,200 | €1,000 – €2,500 |
| **Saving** | €150 – €300 | — |
Note: composite, quartz and ceramic worktops are always made to measure and fitted by the supplier. These are not suitable for DIY installation.
Which type of worktop should you choose?
Laminate (HPL) — the most common choice
The most widely used worktop material. A chipboard core with a laminate layer. Affordable, widely available and easy to clean.
Advantages: inexpensive, many colours/patterns available, can be cut to size yourself
Disadvantages: not heat-resistant, damaged by deep scratches, not resistant to prolonged exposure to water
Price: €30 – €100 per linear metre
Solid wood (oak, beech, acacia)
Warm, authentic and unique. Popular in country-style and industrial kitchens. Requires regular maintenance (oiling).
Advantages: beautiful appearance, can be sanded and repaired when damaged
Disadvantages: needs regular maintenance, sensitive to water at joints and around the sink
Price: €60 – €180 per linear metre
Stainless steel
Professional and hygienic. Popular in industrial-style kitchens.
Advantages: extremely hygienic, waterproof, heat-resistant
Disadvantages: expensive, scratches easily (fingerprints visible), cold feel
Price: €100 – €300 per linear metre
Required materials (laminate worktop, 3 metres)
| Material | Price |
|---|---|
| Laminate worktop 3000x600x38 mm | €90 – €200 |
| Edging strip (cut ends) | €15 – €30 |
| Fixing brackets | €10 – €20 |
| Silicone sealant (clear/white) | €8 – €15 |
| Sanitary silicone around sink | €8 – €15 |
| Screws (wood screw 4×35 mm) | €5 – €10 |
| **Total** | **€136 – €290** |
Tools
- Circular saw with guide rail (for straight cuts)
- Jigsaw (for sink aperture)
- Power drill with bits
- Spirit level
- Marker/pencil
- Tape measure
- Masking tape (protects the surface while sawing)
Step-by-step guide: replacing a kitchen worktop in 8 steps
Step 1: Remove the old worktop
Turn off the water supply. Close the isolating valve under the sink and disconnect the waste trap. Disconnect the tap from the water supply.
Remove the silicone around the sink using a silicone knife or oscillating multi-tool. Lift out the sink.
Unscrew the fixing brackets holding the worktop in place (working from inside the cabinet below). Lift the worktop up and remove it. Be mindful of the weight — a 3-metre worktop weighs 20–30 kg.
Step 2: Measure up and cut to size
Measure the required length and width of the new worktop. Bear in mind:
- Standard depth: 60 cm (for standard 60 cm deep base units)
- Front overhang: 3–5 cm
- For corners: make an accurate cardboard template
Mark the cut lines with masking tape and a pencil. Mark on the top face of the worktop. Cut using the guide rail for a straight, clean cut. Cut from the decorative face (top face) downwards — laminate cuts cleanest when the blade cuts from above downwards.
Step 3: Cut the sink aperture
Place the sink upside down on the worktop and draw around it. Draw a second line 10–15 mm inside the first (this is the ledge on which the sink will sit).
Drill a starter hole in a corner of the aperture (large enough for the jigsaw blade). Cut along the line. Use masking tape around the cut line to prevent chipping.
Tip: have a helper support the cut-out piece as you complete the last few centimetres — this prevents it from falling away and cracking.
Step 4: Fit edging strips to the cut ends
The cut ends (side edges) of laminate are raw chipboard — these must be finished. Use matching edging strips (available ready-made or to order from your worktop supplier).
Apply contact adhesive to both the strip and the cut edge. Leave for 10 minutes (tacky but not bonding). Press the strip firmly into place and trim the overhang with a scraper or knife.
Step 5: Waterproof treatment
Treat all cut surfaces (sink aperture, cut ends) with silicone sealant or a wood impregnation product. Cut surfaces are the most vulnerable point for water ingress — a waterproof sealant or primer protects the chipboard core.
For a wooden worktop: treat all surfaces (including the underside) with wood oil or beeswax before fitting.
Step 6: Fit the new worktop
Place the worktop on the base units. Use a spirit level to check it is level. Screw the fixing brackets from inside the cabinets up into the worktop.
Spirit level: a kitchen worktop that is not level is annoying to use and creates crooked joints where multiple sections meet.
Step 7: Refit the sink and tap
Apply a bead of sanitary silicone around the edge of the aperture. Lower the sink into the opening and press down. Tighten the fixing clips (from underneath). Remove any excess silicone with a damp finger.
Reconnect the tap to the water supply and refit the waste trap. Turn on the isolating valve and check for leaks.
Step 8: Seal around the sink and back wall
Apply a thin bead of clear sanitary silicone:
- Around the sink (top edge, where it meets the worktop)
- At the back where the worktop meets the wall
Smooth the sealant with a damp finger or profiling tool. Leave to cure for 24 hours before using the kitchen.
Joining two worktop sections (corner)
In a kitchen with a corner, you’ll have two worktop sections to join using connecting bolts (worktop connectors or joining plates).
- Place both sections on the kitchen and level them precisely
- Drill the holes for the connectors (following the supplied template)
- Apply silicone sealant to the joint
- Tighten the connectors — the joint pulls tight
- Remove excess silicone and smooth the joint
Tip: a perfect corner joint is challenging. Work carefully and take your time — a poor joint always stands out.
Common mistakes
- Cutting from the wrong side. Always cut laminate from above downwards for a clean cut without chipping.
- Neglecting the waterproofing around the sink. The joints around the sink are the most vulnerable point for water ingress.
- Not finishing the cut ends. Untreated chipboard edges swell on contact with moisture.
- Not checking it’s level. A sloping worktop gives an untidy finish and makes things roll off the counter.
- Not enough silicone at the back wall. Splash water will otherwise get between the worktop and wall.
Frequently asked questions
Can I replace a kitchen worktop without joinery experience?
Yes, but you’ll need the right tools: a circular saw, jigsaw and guide rail. The sink aperture is the most precise part of the job. Take your time and practise on an off-cut first.
How long does it take to replace a kitchen worktop?
With all materials to hand: a day’s work. The preparation (measuring up, ordering materials) takes a few hours beforehand.
Which worktop is the most low-maintenance?
Laminate and composite are the most low-maintenance options. Wood requires regular upkeep (oiling, once or twice a year). Stainless steel is easy to keep clean but shows scratches.
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