Making a screen door or window screen yourself takes half a day and gives you a made-to-measure screen for 25 to 60 euros each. You cut the aluminium profile to size, click the corners in place, roll the mesh in with a spline cord and screw the whole thing into the frame. That is all you need. Having one made to measure ready to go quickly costs 120 to 250 euros per door, so doing it yourself saves you a fair bit.
In this guide you will read exactly which type of screen suits your situation, which mesh to choose, how to measure up without blunders, and how to fit it step by step. After that you will know enough. Promise.
What types of insect screens are there?
Before you start cutting, choose the right type. Otherwise you buy the wrong material. These are the options.
For windows:
- Fixed frame screen (surface-mounted). A rigid frame that you screw or clamp onto the outside in front of the window. Simple and cheap.
- Recessed screen. Sits exactly inside the rebate of the frame. Neatly tucked away, but you have to measure the internal opening exactly.
For doors:
- Hinged screen door. A screen frame with hinges and a magnetic catch. Feels like a real door. Ideal for a door you use often.
- Pleated screen door. The mesh folds to the side like a concertina. Runs on a rail, stays put in any position and suits wide openings up to 3 metres. A good choice for patio doors.
- Roller screen door. The mesh rolls back into the cassette automatically, just like a roller blind. Sleek, but pricier.
- Sliding screen door. Slides along a rail beside the frame. Mainly for existing sliding doors.
- Magnetic screen door (fly curtain). Two mesh curtains that snap shut with magnets as you walk through. Cheapest option, no frame needed. Less tidy, but fine for a shed or temporary use.
Here is a quick overview.
| Type | Price (DIY/made to measure) | Best for | DIY-friendly? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Surface-mounted window screen | 15 – 40 euros | Tilt-and-turn windows | Yes, easy |
| Recessed window screen | 20 – 45 euros | Windows with a rebate | Yes |
| Hinged screen door | 40 – 90 euros | Frequently used door | Yes |
| Pleated screen door | 150 – 300 euros | Patio doors, wide openings | Partly (kit) |
| Roller screen door | 130 – 280 euros | Tidy look, narrow doors | Partly (kit) |
| Magnetic screen door | 10 – 30 euros | Shed, budget, temporary | Yes, ready-made |
For an ordinary door or window you make the frame yourself with screen profile. Pleated and roller screens you usually buy as a made-to-measure kit, because the mechanism is too precise to build from scratch.
Which insect mesh should I choose?
The mesh determines how well your screen works and how long it lasts. Choose deliberately.
- Fibreglass mesh. Standard and the most widely used. Black or grey, flexible, cheap and easy to roll in. For most people the right choice.
- Aluminium mesh. Sturdier and does not tear easily. Slightly dearer and harder to get taut. Good for large screens or spots that take a lot of knocks.
- Pet screen. Extra-strong mesh for pets. Cats and dogs will not just claw through it. Slightly coarser weave.
- Pollen screen (fine mesh). Woven finer so it blocks pollen as well as insects. Cuts pollen by around 90 percent, welcome for hay fever sufferers. Downside: it lets through a little less air and light.
- Anti-cat / privacy mesh. Darker mesh that gives less of a view in from outside.
Black mesh is the easiest to see through from inside looking out. That sounds odd, but it stands out less than grey. Keep that in mind.
How do I measure up?
Measuring wrong is the most common blunder. Take your time with this.
There are two measurements you need to know.
- Internal opening. The measurement inside the frame, so the clear opening. Use it for a recessed screen or a screen that sits in the rebate.
- External measurement (overlap size). The measurement across the frame. Use it for a surface-mounted screen that you fit in front.
Always measure in three places: top, middle and bottom for the width, and left, middle and right for the height. Frames are rarely perfectly square. Note down the smallest measurement, so the screen is sure to fit.
For a DIY window screen you usually take 4 cm off the width and 4.3 cm off the height of the measured opening. That is the space the corner pieces and the profile take up. Always check the instructions for your profile set, because this differs by brand.
For a hinged screen door you take 2 cm off the width, so the door can swing freely.
What tools do I need?
Nothing exotic. This is probably already sitting in your shed.
- Tape measure and pencil
- Hacksaw or a mitre box (for straight, square cuts)
- File (to remove saw burrs)
- Roller wheel (usually comes with the mesh set)
- Sharp utility knife
- Scissors (to trim the mesh roughly)
- Screwdriver or cordless drill
- Spirit level
- Rubber mallet (for the corner pieces)
- Masking tape
Making a window screen yourself: step by step
Here is how to build a window screen with loose screen profile. Reckon on about an hour per screen.
- Cut the profile to size. Stick masking tape on the cut line and mark on top of it. That prevents splinters. Cut the two long profiles to height and the two short ones to width. Cut square.
- Remove the burrs. Take the sharp edges off the cut with a file. Otherwise you will damage the mesh later.
- Click the corners in place. Tap the corner pieces into the profile ends with a rubber mallet. Put a bit of wood between them so you do not dent the profile. Assemble the whole frame this way.
- Centre bar for large screens. Is your screen wider or taller than about 1 metre? Then fit a centre bar in the middle. It keeps the mesh taut and the frame sturdy.
- Lay the mesh over the frame. Leave about 3 cm of mesh overhanging all round. Trim roughly to size.
- Roll the mesh in. Push the spline cord into the groove of the profile with the roller wheel. Start on one side, then the opposite side, then the two other sides. Pull the mesh lightly taut first lengthways and then widthways. Do not pull too hard, or you will pull ripples into the mesh.
- Trim off the excess mesh. Cut along the outside of the spline cord with a sharp utility knife. Ragged? Change the blade, it needs to be razor sharp.
- Fit the screen. Click or screw the window screen into or in front of the frame. Use the supplied clips or spring brackets. Check with the spirit level.
Making a hinged screen door yourself
Largely the same as the window screen, with a few extra steps.
- Build the frame as above, but with heavier profile for a door.
- Fit a centre bar or bottom rail if the door is taller than 1 metre. Make sure that bar is not in the way of the door handle.
- Roll the mesh in.
- Screw the hinges on, about 20 cm from the top and bottom.
- Fit the handle and the magnetic catch to the screen.
- Screw the counter-magnet to the frame so the door closes neatly.
Mind the swing direction. Does your door open inwards? Then the screen hangs on the outside. Does the door open outwards? Then the screen hangs inside. Otherwise the door and screen collide.
DIY with a kit, or made to measure ready to go?
Three routes, each with a reason.
- Cutting loose screen profile from the roll. Cheapest and most flexible. You choose the profile, mesh and size yourself. Ideal for several windows at once.
- Made-to-measure kit. You send in your measurements, get pre-cut profile plus mesh delivered to your door and click it together. Costs a bit more, but no sawing. Handy for pleated and roller screen doors.
- Fully made to measure ready to go. Everything delivered assembled, you just hang it. The dearest route, but no hassle.
Cutting it yourself pays off from three or more screens. For a single pleated screen door for a patio door you often still choose a kit, because the mechanism is precision work.
What does it cost to make a screen?
An indication of the cost per unit.
| Component | Cost |
|---|---|
| Screen profile window screen (per set) | 10 – 25 euros |
| Fibreglass mesh (per screen) | 5 – 15 euros |
| Corner pieces and spline cord | 3 – 8 euros |
| Hinge and catch set (door) | 15 – 30 euros |
| Pleated made-to-measure kit | 150 – 300 euros |
Making a simple window screen yourself costs you around 20 to 45 euros. A hinged screen door 40 to 90 euros. Have the same door made to measure and fitted, and the bill soon adds up to 150 to 250 euros.
Common mistakes
These are the ones I see go wrong most often.
- Measuring in one place. Frames run out of square. Measure at three points and take the smallest measurement.
- Subtracting the wrong measurement. Mixing up the internal opening and the external measurement. Know which type of screen you are making before you measure.
- Pulling the mesh too hard. Then you get ripples and a bulging mesh. Lightly taut is enough.
- Blunt utility blade. Gives a frayed edge along the mesh. Put a fresh blade in.
- Forgetting the door swing. Screen on the wrong side, door jams. Work out the swing direction first.
- No centre bar on large screens. The mesh bulges and the frame weakens. Above 1 metre, always a centre bar.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to make a screen yourself?
You build a window screen in about an hour. A hinged screen door takes half a day including measuring, cutting and hanging. With a pre-cut kit you are done faster.
Which mesh is best for pets?
Pet screen. That is extra-strong mesh that stands up to cats and dogs clawing and pushing. Ordinary fibreglass mesh tears sooner when your pet goes at it.
Does a pollen screen really work against hay fever?
Yes, a pollen screen with fine mesh keeps out up to around 90 percent of the pollen. You do let in a little less fresh air and light than with standard mesh, but for hay fever sufferers it is worth the trade-off.
Can I make a screen without drilling?
Yes. Choose a surface-mounted or recessed screen with spring clips or click-in brackets. Those grip in the rebate without screws. A magnetic screen door (fly curtain) you also stick or tack up, with no frame.
What is the difference between a pleated and a roller screen door?
With a pleated screen door the mesh folds to the side like a concertina and stays put in any position. With a roller screen door the mesh rolls back into a cassette automatically, like a roller blind. Pleated suits wider openings, roller looks sleeker but is dearer.
How taut should the mesh be?
Lightly taut, without ripples. Pull the mesh first lengthways and then widthways as you roll the spline cord in. Pull too hard and you pull bulges and ripples into the mesh. Those you will not get out again.
Get started
A screen is one of those jobs where half a day of work brings you a whole summer of enjoyment. Measure calmly, cut square and do not pull the mesh too taut, and you will be spot on.
Want to tackle more projects yourself, from a garden shed to a carport? At fredsdiyplans.com you will find clear building plans and step-by-step guides you can get going with straight away. Feel free to have a look around.