Laying a new lawn costs €1 to €12 per square metre, depending on whether you choose to seed grass or lay turf. On a 50 m² area that means a difference of €50 (seeding) to €600 (turf). Seeding is cheaper but takes 4–6 weeks before you have a usable lawn. Laying turf gives an immediate result but costs 5–8 times more. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide for both methods, including soil preparation, materials lists and maintenance tips.
DIY vs Hiring a Landscaper: What’s the Difference?
| DIY | Professional landscaper | |
|---|---|---|
| **Seeding (50 m²)** | €50 – €100 | €300 – €600 |
| **Turf laying (50 m²)** | €250 – €400 | €600 – €1,200 |
| **Soil preparation included** | Your own labour | Yes |
| **Result** | 4–6 weeks | Immediate (turf) |
| **Savings** | 50–70% | — |
DIY is almost always cheaper, but it requires time and some physical effort. Soil preparation is the most labour-intensive part — allow half a day for 50 m².
Method 1 or 2: Seeding or Turf?
Seeding — Advantages and Disadvantages
Advantages:
- Significantly cheaper (€1–€2/m² seed vs €4–€8/m² turf)
- More choice of grass types (shade, hardwearing, ornamental)
- The lawn roots more deeply — better drought resistance
Disadvantages:
- 4–6 weeks before a usable lawn
- More care in the early stages (regular watering)
- Risk of bare patches where seed does not germinate
Best time: April–May or August–September (soil temperature 10–15 °C)
Turf Laying — Advantages and Disadvantages
Advantages:
- Immediate result: well-rooted after 2–3 weeks
- Less risk of weeds in the early stages
- Can also be laid in summer (provided it is watered well)
Disadvantages:
- 4–8× more expensive than seeding
- Heavy work: turf rolls weigh 15–20 kg each
- Less choice of grass varieties
Best time: April–November (avoid frost periods and dry summers without irrigation)
Required Materials
For Seeding (50 m²)
| Material | Quantity | Estimated price |
|---|---|---|
| Grass seed | 1–2 kg (20–30 g/m²) | €20 – €50 |
| Topsoil or compost | 200–300 litres | €30 – €60 |
| Lawn fertiliser (starter) | 2–3 kg | €10 – €20 |
| Sand (for clay soil) | 100–200 kg | €10 – €20 |
| **Total** | **€70 – €150** |
For Turf Laying (50 m²)
| Material | Quantity | Estimated price |
|---|---|---|
| Turf | 55 m² (10% extra) | €220 – €440 |
| Topsoil | 200–300 litres | €30 – €60 |
| Lawn fertiliser (starter) | 2–3 kg | €10 – €20 |
| **Total** | **€260 – €520** |
Tools
- Spade and rake
- Rotavator (hire €40–€80/day) — saves a great deal of work
- Tape measure and garden twine (for straight edges)
- Hosepipe or irrigation system
- Hand or broadcast seed spreader (hire €20–€40/day) — for larger areas
Step-by-Step Guide: Laying a Lawn in 8 Steps
Step 1: Plan and Measure Up
Measure out the area you want to grass. Calculate how much seed or turf you need. Always buy 10% extra to allow for overlap and any repair seeding.
Also decide what type of grass you want:
- Ornamental lawn — fine, even, but vulnerable to heavy use
- General-purpose lawn — more robust, can withstand children and dogs playing
- Shade lawn — specially for areas with little sun (less than 4 hours/day)
- Drought-resistant lawn — requires less water, handy without an irrigation system
Step 2: Remove Existing Vegetation
Remove all existing grass, moss and weeds. You can do this by:
- Spade and fork — labour-intensive but effective
- Flame weeder — quick, but does not kill weeds down to the root
- Glyphosate (Roundup) — effective, but wait 2–3 weeks before continuing
Tip: hire a rotavator if you have a large area. You can do in one day what would otherwise take two weekends.
Step 3: Work the Soil
Rotavate or dig over the soil to a depth of 20–30 cm. This is the most important step for a good lawn — poorly worked soil gives an uneven lawn with shallow roots.
For heavy clay soil: mix sand into the top 15 cm. Use 10–15 litres of sand per m². Clay retains too much water, which leads to a waterlogged, bumpy lawn.
For sandy soil: add compost or topsoil. Sandy soil dries out too quickly.
Step 4: Level the Surface
Rake the soil level and remove stones, roots and other obstructions. Then lightly firm the soil with a lawn roller or by carefully walking over it.
Check for levelness: lay a long board or straight batten on the soil and check for dips or bumps greater than 2 cm. Unevenness in the soil only gets worse over the years.
Step 5a: Seed the Lawn
Distribute the seed evenly using a hand spreader or seed drill. Sow half in one direction and the other half at right angles — this prevents bare strips.
Lightly rake the seed in (maximum 1 cm deep) and firm the surface. This ensures good contact between seed and soil, which improves germination.
Rate: use 20–30 grams of seed per m². Too little seed gives a thin lawn; too much seed and the seedlings compete with each other.
Step 5b: Lay the Turf
Start along a straight line next to a path, fence or boundary. Lay the first row tight against this line. Lay the turf in a staggered, brick-bond pattern (joints offset from row to row) — this gives a stronger lawn.
Firming: press each roll down firmly with a lawn roller or by walking on it. Poor contact with the soil is the most common cause of drying out.
Note: trim excess rolls with a sharp knife. Do not use damaged or thin rolls at the edges — place these in the middle and use whole rolls at the edges.
Step 6: Apply Fertiliser
After seeding or laying, apply a layer of starter fertiliser. Starter fertiliser contains a high level of phosphorus, which stimulates root development.
How much: follow the dosage instructions on the packaging. More is not better — too much fertiliser will scorch the young grass.
Step 7: Watering
This is the critical stage, particularly for seeded lawns. Watering is the number one cause of failure when laying your own lawn.
For seeded lawn:
- Water daily (in dry weather) — the top 3–5 cm must not dry out
- Use a fine misting head, not a jet (seed washes away)
- This continues for 4–6 weeks until the grass is 8–10 cm tall
For turf:
- Water thoroughly every day for the first 2–3 weeks
- After 2 weeks, lift a corner: are the roots growing into the soil? If so, the turf has rooted
Step 8: First Cuts
Seeded lawn: mow only once the grass is 8–10 cm tall. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass length in one go. First cut: set the mower on its highest setting.
Turf: mow only once the rolls have rooted firmly (after 2–3 weeks). Test this by pulling the grass — if the roll lifts, wait another week.
Common Mistakes
- Insufficient soil preparation. Poorly prepared soil is the most common cause of a poor lawn. Invest most of your time in steps 1–4.
- Not watering enough. Seeded lawns need daily watering for the first 4–6 weeks. Do not skip a day in dry weather.
- Mowing too soon. Only mow when the grass is firmly established. Mowing too early damages the young grass and tears out the roots.
- Raking seed in too deep. Grass seed only germinates if it is no more than 1 cm deep. Deeper and it will not germinate.
- Not firming turf rolls down properly. Air pockets under the rolls lead to drying out and die-back. Press all rolls down firmly.
Lawn Care: The First Year
| Task | Frequency | When |
|---|---|---|
| Mowing | Weekly | Once grass > 8 cm |
| Watering | 2–3×/week | Dry spells |
| Fertilising | 3–4×/year | Spring, summer, late summer |
| Scarifying | 1×/year | Spring or late summer |
| Aerating | 1×/year | Spring |
| Weeding | Ongoing | As soon as visible |
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to sow grass seed?
April–May and August–September are ideal. The soil temperature is 10–15 °C — warm enough for germination but not so warm that the seed dries out. Avoid the hot summer months (June–July) unless you have an irrigation system.
How long does it take for a lawn to be ready?
A seeded lawn is usable as a play area after 4–6 weeks, but a mature, sturdy lawn takes 1–2 seasons. Turf is well-rooted after 2–3 weeks and immediately usable.
How much does lawn laying cost per m²?
Seeding costs €1–€2/m² in materials. Turf laying costs €4–€8/m². If you hire a landscaper, expect to pay €8–€20/m² (including soil preparation and materials).
Does the soil always need to be dug over?
Yes, unless you have a small area with already good soil. Without soil preparation the grass roots shallowly, which leads to drought susceptibility and a fragile lawn.
Which grass seed is the best?
For most gardens, a hardwearing general-purpose mix is the best choice. Want a neat ornamental lawn? Choose a fine mixture with smooth-stalked meadow grass. Lots of shade? Choose a dedicated shade grass mix.
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