Installing wall panelling yourself costs €15 to €45 per square metre in materials. For a room of 20 m² with panelling up to 1.2 metres high (approximately 8 m² of wall surface), the material cost is €120 to €360. If you have the work done professionally, expect to pay €40 to €80 per m² including labour. This article provides a complete step-by-step guide to installing timber wall panelling — both narrow tongue-and-groove strips and wider boards.
DIY vs. Carpenter
| DIY | Carpenter | |
|---|---|---|
| **Wall panelling (8 m²)** | €120 – €360 (materials) | €320 – €640 (incl. materials) |
| **Saving** | 40–50% | — |
Which Type of Panelling?
Narrow Tongue-and-Groove Strips (T&G)
The most traditional form. Narrow boards with a tongue-and-groove joint that interlock together. Standard width: 70–120 mm. Available in pine, spruce, oak and poplar.
Style: country, classic, Scandinavian
Price: €8 – €25 per m²
Wide Boards (Panel Cladding)
Wider boards (150–300 mm) with or without decorative grooves. Creates a more modern, rustic look.
Style: modern, industrial, rustic
Price: €15 – €40 per m²
MDF Panelling (Painted)
Pre-fabricated MDF panels, ready to paint. Affordable and quick to fit. Less authentic but functional.
Price: €12 – €30 per m²
Materials (wall panelling 8 m², tongue-and-groove pine)
| Material | Quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Panelling boards (tongue and groove) | 9 m² (+10% waste) | €80 – €180 |
| Battens 25×38 mm (framework) | approx. 20 metres | €15 – €25 |
| Skirting board + cover moulding | approx. 10 metres | €20 – €40 |
| Trim strips (internal and external corners) | approx. 5 metres | €15 – €25 |
| Screws or nails | €5 – €10 | |
| Primer + paint/stain | €20 – €40 | |
| **Total** | **€155 – €320** |
Step-by-Step Guide: Install Wall Panelling in 8 Steps
Step 1: Determine the Height and Mark Up
Decide at what height the panelling will finish. Standard options:
- Full wall: floor to ceiling (100%)
- Low dado panelling: floor to 80–100 cm (classic)
- High dado panelling: floor to 120–150 cm
Draw a horizontal line on the wall at the chosen height using a spirit level. This is the reference line for the top board and the cover moulding.
Step 2: Fix the Battens (Framework)
Fix horizontal battens (25×38 mm) to the wall at the following positions:
- At floor level (bottom batten)
- At the marked height (top batten)
- Halfway up (middle batten) for panelling higher than 80 cm
Use wall plugs and screws for solid walls. Check with a spirit level that the battens are horizontal.
Air gap: the battening creates an automatic air gap between the wall and the panelling. This helps prevent moisture problems and makes the construction stable.
Step 3: Treat the Boards (Before Fitting)
Treat the boards before fitting:
- For painting: apply a coat of primer to all sides (including the back)
- For staining/oiling: apply the first coat before fixing
- Reason: after fitting, the joints are difficult to reach
Step 4: Start with the First Board
Start in a corner or at floor level. The first board is the most critical — it determines whether all the following boards run straight.
Check the first board with a spirit level for plumb (for vertical boards) or level (for horizontal fitting). Even a slight deviation is multiplied across many boards.
Fixing: use secret nailing for tongue-and-groove boards. Drive a nail or screw at an angle through the tongue into the batten. The next board will cover the fixing. Alternative: use construction adhesive on the back.
Step 5: Fit the Remaining Boards
Slide the tongue of the next board into the groove of the previous one. Knock the board into place with a rubber mallet (use a scrap block to avoid damaging the tongue). Fix through the tongue.
Note: wood moves with changes in temperature and humidity. Leave 1–2 mm clearance at the bottom (concealable with skirting board) and at the top (concealable with cover moulding).
Step 6: Corners and Obstacles
Internal corners: use a corner strip or saw the board to exact size (45-degree mitre cut for a neat joint).
External corners: use a corner moulding or saw both boards at 45 degrees (mitre cut) so they meet seamlessly.
Sockets and light switches: cut a recess in the board. Use a router or jigsaw.
Door frames: work from the doorway to the corner. Saw the boards to exactly the width of the frame.
Step 7: The Last Board
The last board rarely fits exactly. Measure the required width at several points (walls are not always straight). Saw to size. Use a clamp or a wedge to pull the board into position and hold it while fixing.
Step 8: Finishing — Skirting and Mouldings
Fit the finishing strips:
- Skirting board (at the bottom): covers the clearance at the floor. Use a flexible internal corner bead for neat corner joints.
- Cover moulding (at the top): horizontal strip that finishes the top edge of the panelling. Also provides a neat visual border.
- Internal corner strip: for a neat corner finish.
Seal all joints and transitions with acrylic filler (paintable). Smooth with a damp finger.
Vertical vs. Horizontal Installation
| Direction | Effect |
|---|---|
| Vertical | Room appears taller |
| Horizontal | Room appears wider |
| Herringbone/diagonal | Dynamic, lively feel |
Panelling is most commonly installed vertically. Horizontal is also popular, particularly for a more modern look. For horizontal installation: fit the battens vertically.
Common Mistakes
- First board not straight. This is the most common mistake — every subsequent board will also be crooked. Always check with a spirit level.
- Not allowing the wood to acclimatise. Leave the boards in the room for 48–72 hours before fitting — this allows the wood to adjust its moisture content.
- Battens in the wrong direction. Horizontal boards = vertical battens, and vice versa.
- No clearance at floor and ceiling. Wood moves — without clearance the boards will buckle.
- Not mitring external corners. Straight-cut external corners will split over time. A mitre cut (45°) gives a stronger and better-looking joint.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I fix wall panelling to a concrete wall?
Use battens that are fixed to the concrete wall with wall plugs and screws. The panelling itself is then screwed or nailed to the battens — this is easier than fixing directly into concrete and gives a better air gap.
How do I paint wall panelling that has already been fitted?
Apply a coat of primer first (specifically for wood). Then 2 coats of wall paint or furniture paint. Always work with the grain. Use a brush for the joints and a narrow roller for the larger surfaces.
Which wood is best for bathroom wall panelling?
Use moisture-resistant timber species: oak, ipé or other hardwoods. Alternatively, use specifically treated pine (at least 2 coats of moisture-resistant paint or varnish). Avoid the walls directly next to the shower — timber panelling is always a risk there.
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