Building a walk-in shower yourself costs an average of $900 to $2,800 in materials, depending on the glass panel, tiles, and drainage solution. Hiring a contractor to build a walk-in shower will run you $3,500 to $8,000 including labor. The big advantage of doing it yourself: you save significantly on labor costs and can choose exactly the dimensions, tiles, and glass panel you want. But be warned — waterproofing and drainage are critical. Mistakes here lead to leaks and moisture damage. In this guide, you’ll learn everything about dimensions, waterproofing, glass panels, floor options, and follow a complete step-by-step plan.
What Does a Walk-In Shower Cost? DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
Cost Comparison
| DIY (materials) | Hiring a Pro (labor + materials) | |
|---|---|---|
| Basic walk-in shower (36×48 in, 1 glass panel) | $900 – $1,700 | $3,500 – $5,500 |
| Mid-range (40×60 in, 1 glass panel, concealed valve) | $1,400 – $2,300 | $4,500 – $7,000 |
| Luxury (48×79 in, 2 glass panels, rain shower) | $2,000 – $2,800 | $5,500 – $8,000+ |
Cost Breakdown DIY (average walk-in shower)
| Cost Item | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| Glass panel (3/8 inch, 36-48 in wide) | $300 – $700 |
| Linear drain or point drain | $100 – $300 |
| Waterproofing membrane (liquid or sheet) | $60 – $140 |
| Tiles for shower floor + walls | $180 – $450 |
| Thinset mortar + grout | $50 – $90 |
| Shower valve + shower head | $120 – $450 |
| Drain line + fittings | $35 – $70 |
| Mortar bed / slope material | $35 – $70 |
| Total | $880 – $2,270 |
Dimensions: How Big Should a Walk-In Shower Be?
Minimum and Recommended Dimensions
| Aspect | Minimum | Recommended | Ideal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Width | 32 in (80 cm) | 40-48 in (100-120 cm) | 56+ in (140+ cm) |
| Depth | 40 in (100 cm) | 48-60 in (120-150 cm) | 60+ in (150+ cm) |
| Glass panel height | 79 in (200 cm) | 79-87 in (200-220 cm) | 79-87 in (200-220 cm) |
| Glass panel width | 32 in (80 cm) | 36-48 in (90-120 cm) | 40-48 in (100-120 cm) |
| Entry opening | 20 in (50 cm) | 24-32 in (60-80 cm) | 24-32 in (60-80 cm) |
How Much Space Do You Need?
A walk-in shower without a door has an open entry. This means water can splash further than with a closed shower enclosure. Keep in mind:
- At least 32 inches (80 cm) between the glass panel and the opposite wall or object. Otherwise, water splashes into the bathroom.
- Position the shower head toward the wall, not toward the opening. This directs water against the wall instead of into the bathroom.
- A curb or slope to keep water in the shower zone. Without a curb, you need a larger shower area (at least 48 inches / 120 cm deep).
Tip: Trace the walk-in shower at full scale on the floor with painter’s tape. Stand in it. Move your arms. This gives you an immediate feel for whether the space is large enough.
Walk-In Shower: Curb or Curbless?
| With curb (1 inch) | Curbless (floor-level) | |
|---|---|---|
| Waterproofing | Curb holds water back | Entirely dependent on slope |
| Accessibility | Small obstacle | Fully barrier-free, wheelchair/walker accessible |
| Minimum shower size | 32×40 in (80×100 cm) | 40×48 in (100×120 cm, more space needed due to splash) |
| Installation | Easier (curb as extra barrier) | Harder (slope must be perfect) |
| Appearance | Less sleek | Clean, modern, luxury look |
Recommendation: Go curbless if you have the space (at least 48 inches / 120 cm deep) and can get the slope right. Choose a low curb if space is limited — 1 inch (2-3 cm) is enough to hold water back, and you won’t trip over it.
Drainage and Waterproofing: The Most Important Part
Drainage Options
| Drain Type | Price | Capacity | Suitable For | Installation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Linear drain | $100 – $300 | 8-13 gal/min | Modern walk-in showers, large format tiles | Built into the floor, slope to one side |
| Point drain | $25 – $70 | 5-9 gal/min | Small showers, standard tiles | Center of the floor, slope to all sides |
| Wall drain | $180 – $400 | 8-10 gal/min | Design showers, no visible drain | In the wall, special installation |
Recommendation: A linear drain along the wall. The slope only needs to go in one direction (toward the drain), which is easier than sloping to all sides with a center drain. Plus, you can use large floor tiles without a lot of cutting.
Slope
The shower floor must slope toward the drain. The standard is 1/4 inch per foot (approximately 1%). For a 48-inch deep shower with a drain at the wall side: the floor drops about 1 inch from the entry side to the drain.
Too little slope: Water pools and runs into the bathroom.
Too much slope: The floor feels slanted and tiles look visibly crooked.
Waterproofing
This is the most critical element. A walk-in shower without proper waterproofing will inevitably lead to leaks, mold, and structural damage.
| Waterproofing Type | Price | Application | Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Liquid membrane (e.g., RedGard, Hydroban) | $35 – $70 per gallon | Floor and walls, over joints and corners | Apply 2 coats with roller, dries to waterproof layer |
| Sheet membrane (e.g., Schluter DITRA, Kerdi) | $15 – $25 per sq ft | Floor, decoupling + waterproofing | Self-adhesive or glued, also acts as decoupling layer |
| Seam tape | $3 – $8 per 10 ft | Corners, seams, wall-floor transitions | Reinforces waterproofing at vulnerable points |
Where does waterproofing go?
– The entire shower floor
– Walls to at least 79 inches (200 cm) height in the shower zone (better: full wall height)
– All corners and transitions (wall-floor, wall-wall) — this is where seam tape goes
– Around the drain — use the flange gasket that comes with the drain
Two coats: Always apply two coats of liquid membrane in a crosshatch pattern. Let the first coat dry completely before applying the second (usually 2-4 hours).
Choosing a Glass Panel
Glass Panel Options
| Type | Glass Thickness | Price | Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fixed panel (1 glass sheet) | 3/8 inch (8-10 mm) | $250 – $550 | Most popular, sleek, affordable |
| Fixed panel + short return | 3/8 inch (8-10 mm) | $400 – $750 | Better splash protection |
| Two fixed panels (corner) | 5/16 inch (8 mm) | $450 – $800 | For corner installations |
| Fixed panel + pivot door | 1/4-5/16 inch (6-8 mm) | $550 – $1,000 | Full enclosure possible |
Recommendation for a standard walk-in shower: One fixed panel of 3/8 inch (8 mm) tempered glass, 36-48 inches wide. This is the most popular, cheapest, and easiest to install option. Choose glass with nano-coating (anti-lime) — it saves enormously on cleaning.
Glass Panel Mounting
Glass panels are mounted with:
– Wall channel: An aluminum or stainless steel channel screwed to the wall. The glass slides in and is secured.
– Wall clamps/brackets: Individual clamps that hold the glass. Cleaner design but less stable.
– Stabilizer bar: A bar from the glass panel to the wall or ceiling that prevents the panel from wobbling. Almost always needed for panels wider than 32 inches (80 cm).
Floor: Tiles vs. Poured Floor
| Tiles | Poured floor (polyurethane/epoxy) | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | $4 – $8 per sq ft | $10 – $18 per sq ft |
| Creating slope | Manually with mortar | Built into the poured floor |
| Grout lines | Yes — maintenance needed | Seamless — no grout |
| Slip resistance | Choose tiles rated R10-R11 | Anti-slip finish possible |
| Appearance | Classic, lots of choice | Modern, sleek |
| DIY-friendly | Yes, with the right knowledge | No, leave this to a specialist |
| Repair | Replace a single tile | Redo the entire floor |
Best choice for DIY: Tiles. A poured floor (PU or epoxy) in a shower requires specialist knowledge and equipment — leave that to a professional.
Choosing a Shower Valve: Exposed vs. Concealed
| Type | Price | Installation | Appearance | Suitable For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Exposed thermostatic valve | $120 – $300 | Simple, mounted on the wall | Visible valve and piping | Budget, easy installation |
| Concealed thermostatic valve | $180 – $450 | Complex, piping in the wall | Sleek, only knobs visible | Modern, clean look |
| Exposed with rain shower | $180 – $400 | Simple | Rain shower head on bar | Quick to install |
| Concealed with ceiling rain shower | $300 – $700 | Complex, piping to ceiling | Ultra-clean, rain shower in ceiling | Luxury build |
Recommendation for DIY: An exposed thermostatic valve with a rain shower head on a bar. Easy to install, easy to replace, and available at any hardware store. A concealed valve looks better, but you need to chase the pipes into the wall before waterproofing and tiling — that’s an extra step requiring precision.
Important: Always choose a thermostatic valve. It keeps the temperature constant and prevents scalding. A standard mixer without a thermostat is not suitable for a shower.
Required Materials and Tools
Tools
| Tool | Required | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Spirit level (4 ft) | Yes | For checking slope |
| Tape measure + pencil | Yes | — |
| Tile cutter (manual) | Yes | For cutting tiles to size |
| Angle grinder + diamond blade | Yes | For cutouts around drain and pipes |
| Notched trowel (3/8 inch) | Yes | For floor and wall tiles |
| Roller + brush | Yes | For waterproofing membrane |
| Mixing paddle + drill | Yes | For mixing mortar and grout |
| Rubber grout float | Yes | For grouting |
| Caulk gun | Yes | For silicone sealant |
| Knee pads | Highly recommended | You’ll be working on your knees for hours |
Step-by-Step Guide: Build a Walk-In Shower in 10 Steps
Step 1: Plan the Layout and Measure
Determine the position of the walk-in shower, the drain, and the valve. Measure the available space and draw a floor plan. Consider the position of existing drain and water lines — relocating them is expensive and complex.
Step 2: Install the Drain Line
The drain must sit below the floor. The drain line (1.5 or 2 inch) runs with at least 1/4 inch slope per foot to the main drain stack. If the existing floor isn’t thick enough to accommodate the drain, you’ll need to raise the shower floor.
Note: This is the time to choose between a linear drain and a point drain. For a linear drain: run the drain line along the wall where the drain will go. For a point drain: run the drain line to the center.
Step 3: Create the Shower Floor with Slope
Pour a mortar bed with the correct slope toward the drain. Use a slope gauge or screed rails to get the slope exactly right. The slope is 1/4 inch per foot. Let the mortar bed cure for at least 3-5 days.
Alternative: Use a pre-formed shower pan (e.g., Wedi, Schluter Kerdi-Shower). This is a foam element with the slope already built in. More expensive ($120-$250) but delivers a foolproof slope.
Step 4: Install the Drain
Mount the drain on the drain line. Check that the top of the drain sits at the correct height — flush with the finished tile surface. Connect the drain line and test for leaks by pouring water through it.
Step 5: Apply Waterproofing
Brush the first coat of liquid membrane onto the floor and walls (to at least 79 inches / 200 cm height). Apply seam tape in all corners and transitions. Apply the drain flange gasket around the drain. Let dry (2-4 hours). Apply the second coat in a crosshatch pattern. Let dry completely (at least 12 hours, preferably 24 hours).
Step 6: Tile the Walls
Start with the walls. Begin at the second row of tiles (place a straight board as support). Work from bottom to top. Leave the bottom row open — you’ll cut those to fit once the floor is done. Use flexible tile adhesive (C2S1) in the shower zone.
Step 7: Tile the Shower Floor
Lay the floor tiles on flexible thinset. Follow the slope — check regularly with a spirit level that water flows toward the drain. Use tiles with slip resistance rating R10 or R11. With mosaic tiles: these follow the slope more easily than large tiles.
Step 8: Grout the Tiles
Let the thinset cure for 24 hours. Grout the tiles with waterproof grout (epoxy grout or cement-based waterproof grout). Remove excess grout with a damp sponge.
Step 9: Seal the Joints
Seal all transitions with sanitary silicone: around the drain, along the bottom of the wall, around pipe penetrations. Use mildew-resistant sanitary silicone.
Step 10: Install the Glass Panel and Valve
Attach the wall channel at the correct position. Slide the glass into the channel and secure it. Install the stabilizer bar. Install the shower valve and shower head. Test everything: Does the water drain properly? Does water splash outside the shower zone? Are all connections leak-free?
Common Mistakes When Building a Walk-In Shower
1. Skipping or Poorly Applying Waterproofing
The number one mistake. Without proper waterproofing, water seeps through the tile grout into the structure. Result: mold, rotting wood, leaks to the floor below. Two coats of membrane with seam tape in all corners is the absolute minimum.
2. Too Little Slope
1/8 inch per foot seems like enough, but it’s not. Water pools and runs into the bathroom. Maintain at least 1/4 inch per foot, and test with water before tiling.
3. Not Using Non-Slip Tiles
A wet, smooth tile is a serious slip hazard. Choose tiles with slip resistance rating R10 (minimum) or R11. Mosaic tiles also score well on slip resistance thanks to the many grout lines.
4. Choosing a Glass Panel That’s Too Narrow
A 28-inch glass panel on a 48-inch-wide shower barely holds water back. Choose a glass panel that covers at least 75% of the shower width, or 36 inches as a minimum.
5. Underestimating Drain Capacity
A rain shower delivers 4-7 gallons per minute. A point drain with 5 gal/min capacity will overflow. Check the drain capacity and choose a linear drain with at least 8 gal/min for a rain shower.
6. Ordering the Glass Panel Too Late
Glass panels are often custom-made and have a lead time of 2-4 weeks. Order the glass panel first, so you’re not stuck with a finished shower waiting for the glass.
7. No Ventilation in the Bathroom
A walk-in shower without a door ventilates better than a closed enclosure, but your bathroom still needs to get rid of the moisture. Without mechanical ventilation (exhaust fan, minimum 75 m³/hour / 50 CFM), you’ll get mold on the walls, ceiling, and grout. Install a good bathroom fan that turns on automatically with humidity.
Maintaining a Walk-In Shower
Weekly
- Rinse the glass panel with cold water after every shower (prevents lime buildup)
- Squeegee the glass panel dry
- Spray the tiles with an anti-lime shower spray
Monthly
- Clean the glass panel with glass cleaner or a vinegar solution (1:1 with water)
- Clean the grout with a grout cleaner or baking soda
- Check the silicone sealant for cracks or mold
- Clean the drain — remove hair and soap residue from the strainer
Annually
- Visually inspect the waterproofing — are there cracks in the grout or sealant?
- Replace silicone sealant if it’s discolored or detached (every 3-5 years)
- Check if the drain still flows quickly — a slow drain indicates a clog deeper in the line
Frequently Asked Questions About Building a Walk-In Shower
How much does it cost to build a walk-in shower yourself?
A basic walk-in shower costs $900 to $1,700 in materials. A mid-range version with nice tiles and a good glass panel costs $1,400 to $2,300. Hiring a contractor costs $3,500 to $8,000.
How big does a walk-in shower need to be?
At least 32×40 inches (80×100 cm), but 40×48 inches (100×120 cm) or larger is recommended. The bigger the shower, the fewer splash problems you’ll have. For a curbless shower, plan at least 48 inches (120 cm) depth.
Do I need a curb for a walk-in shower?
Not required, but recommended if your shower is less than 48 inches (120 cm) deep. A low curb of 1 inch (2-3 cm) keeps the water in the shower zone without being a trip hazard. Without a curb, you need a larger area and better slope.
Can I build a walk-in shower on a wooden floor?
Technically possible, but complex. You need a decoupling mat to absorb the movement of the wood, plus extra waterproofing. The floor must support the weight of the mortar bed, tiles, and water. Have this assessed by a building professional first.
How long does it take to build a walk-in shower yourself?
Plan on 5-7 working days if you do everything yourself. The breakdown: days 1-2 for drain and mortar bed, day 3 for waterproofing (plus drying time), days 4-5 for tiling (walls and floor), day 6 for grouting and sealing, day 7 for glass panel and valve. The drying times set the pace — you can’t do everything back to back.
What tiles are best for a shower floor?
Choose tiles with slip resistance rating R10 or R11. Mosaic tiles (2×2 inches on mesh sheets) are popular because they follow the slope easily and offer good grip thanks to the many grout lines. For the walls, you can use smooth tiles.
Building Plans and Guides
Ready to get started with professional building plans and step-by-step guides? Check out the complete building plans package at fredsdiyplans.com — with thousands of plans for every DIY project.
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