Building a TV unit yourself costs €80 to €300 in materials. Ready-made designer TV units of comparable quality cost €200 to €800. Building your own saves 50–70% — and you choose exactly the dimensions, colour, and style that suit your interior. A TV unit is one of the most popular beginner furniture projects — no complicated joints, and it comes together relatively quickly. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide.
Build your own vs. buy: cost comparison
| | Build your own | Buy |
|—|—|—|
| Lowboard 120 cm (simple) | €80 – €150 | €200 – €450 |
| Lowboard 160 cm with doors | €150 – €250 | €300 – €700 |
| Full built-in TV wall | €300 – €600 | €1,500 – €4,000 |
| Saving | 50–70% | — |
Design: choose your style
Lowboard (the most popular type)
Low, wide unit on legs or a plinth. Typical dimensions: 120–200 cm wide, 40–50 cm deep, 35–50 cm high. Space for AV equipment, doors for hiding cables and devices.
Floating TV unit
Wall-mounted, no legs. Gives a light, airy feel and is easier to clean. Requires the wall to have sufficient load-bearing capacity (use wall plugs for solid masonry).
TV wall (media wall)
Full wall unit around the TV, with shelves, lighting, and sometimes a fireplace surround. See also the media-wall-build article for a more detailed guide.
Required materials (lowboard 160 cm, 4 bays, with legs)
| Material | Dimensions | Quantity | Price |
|—|—|—|—|
| MDF 18 mm (side panels, dividers, top, base) | Various | 2 sheets 244×122 | €50 – €100 |
| MDF 9 mm (back panel) | 160×40 cm | 1 piece | €10 – €20 |
| Legs (hairpin legs or wooden feet) | 15–20 cm high | 4 pieces | €20 – €60 |
| Hinges (soft-close) for doors | | 4 pieces | €10 – €20 |
| Doors (MDF or solid timber) | 40×30 cm | 2 pieces | €20 – €40 |
| Screws, dowels, plugs | | | €10 – €20 |
| Primer + paint or foil | | | €25 – €50 |
| LED strip (optional) | | 2 metres | €15 – €30 |
| Total | | | €160 – €340 |
Step-by-step guide: build a TV unit in 8 steps
Step 1: Determine the dimensions
Before you start, check:
- TV width: the TV unit must be at least as wide as the TV’s stand feet (or the TV itself for wall mounting)
- Height: the bottom of the screen should be at eye level when seated. Rule of thumb: TV centre at 100–110 cm height = unit height + TV height/2 = 100 cm. With a 50 cm tall TV: unit max. 75 cm high.
- Depth: 35–50 cm is standard. Allow sufficient space for cables at the back (5–10 cm).
Step 2: Create a cutting plan
Draw all components on paper with dimensions. Create a cutting plan for the MDF sheets — how do you cut the components to minimise waste?
Have the large sheets cut to size at the builders’ merchant (€1–€3 per cut). More accurate and less work at home.
Step 3: Routing for cables (optional)
Route or cut cable openings:
- Back panel: round opening Ø40–50 mm for cable feed-through per bay
- Side panels: cable management slot if you want to run cables along the side
Step 4: Prime and paint (before assembly)
Paint all MDF components before assembly — this is much easier than painting after construction. Apply one coat of MDF primer (MDF is very absorbent without primer), sand lightly, then apply 2 coats of topcoat.
Want a different finish?
- Vinyl wrap / self-adhesive film: easy to apply, many patterns (wood effect, matt black, etc.)
- Stucco finish: gives a luxurious, matt feel
- HPL laminate: very durable, professional result
Step 5: Assemble the carcass
Join the side panels to the top and base panels using dowels + wood glue (or countersunk screws). Add the divider panel(s) for the bay layout.
Check after each step that the unit is square (measure the diagonals). Use a set square in the internal corners if needed.
Step 6: Fit the back panel
Screw the back panel (9 mm MDF) to the frame. The back panel gives the unit its rigidity. Apply a thin bead of wood glue to the frame edges for a solid bond.
Step 7: Attach the legs
Screw the legs (hairpin legs, tapered wooden feet, or square feet) to the underside of the unit. Hairpin legs are popular for a Scandinavian / industrial look. Use the supplied mounting plates for a flush fit.
Check that the unit stands stable — if needed, add a rubber foot pad to the most loaded leg.
Step 8: Hang the doors and organise cables
Fit the doors using soft-close hinges. After fitting, adjust the hinges (height, depth, sideways) for even door alignment.
Cable management:
- Use cable feed-through holes behind each bay
- Cable ties to bundle cables together
- Cable trunking on the back for mains cables to the socket
Adding LED strip lighting (optional):
Attach an LED strip to the back of the top panel for indirect lighting behind the TV. Connect to an RGB controller or dimmer. Connect to a 12V plug-in power supply. Costs €15–€30.
Fitting a floating TV unit to the wall
Use a specialist floating shelf system or mount directly to the wall:
- Mark the wall position and check with a spirit level
- Drill holes in the wall (use a masonry bit for hollow blocks)
- Use wall plugs of at least 70 mm (for solid walls)
- Hang the unit using heavy-duty brackets or a separate wall rail
Load bearing: a TV unit of 40 kg + TV of 20 kg = 60 kg. Use plugs and bolts rated to carry at least 100 kg.
Frequently asked questions
Which material is best for a TV unit?
18 mm MDF is the most common choice: takes paint well, cuts accurately. Plywood is stronger but harder to get a smooth paint finish on. Chipboard is cheaper but less durable.
How do I get the doors flush?
Use adjustable soft-close hinges (35 mm cup hinges). After fitting you can fine-tune the doors in height, depth, and lateral position using the adjustment screws on the hinge.
How do I hide the cables behind my TV?
Use cable trunking (white plastic channel on the wall), cable feed-through holes behind the unit, or cable sleeves. The neatest result: have the mains cable run behind the wall (have this done by an electrician).
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