Building a garden wall costs €50 to €150 per square metre in materials, depending on what you use. A simple concrete block wall 10 metres long and 1 metre high costs roughly €300–€600 in materials if you do it yourself. Hire a contractor and you can expect to pay €150–€300 per linear metre — three to five times more. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide to building a garden wall with concrete blocks or facing bricks, including foundations, brickwork, and finishing.
Building yourself vs. hiring out: cost comparison
| Build yourself | Contractor | |
|---|---|---|
| **Concrete block wall (10 m x 1 m)** | €400 – €800 | €1,500 – €3,000 |
| **Brick wall (10 m x 1 m)** | €600 – €1,200 | €2,000 – €4,000 |
| **Foundation (10 linear metres)** | €150 – €300 | included |
| **Saving** | 50–70% | — |
Bricklaying does require some skill — everyone lays the first section slightly wonky. Practising on a less visible spot is worthwhile. Concrete blocks are easier than bricks because they’re larger and require less precise jointing.
Which type of garden wall suits you?
Concrete blocks (split-face blocks / screen blocks)
The most popular choice for garden walls. Split-face blocks (also known as garden wall blocks or concrete blocks) are large, heavy, and relatively easy to lay. They look like broken stone and work well in both rustic and modern gardens.
Advantages: affordable, easy to lay, sturdy
Disadvantages: heavy (20–25 kg per block), less refined appearance than brickwork
Costs: €2 – €5 per block (approx. 10 blocks per m²) = €20–€50/m²
Facing bricks (engineering bricks / standard format)
Traditional brickwork in standard brick format. Timeless, durable, and available in an enormous range of colours and sizes. Requires more skill.
Advantages: classic appearance, high durability, blends well with surroundings
Disadvantages: more labour-intensive, higher material costs than concrete blocks
Costs: €200 – €600 per 1,000 bricks (approx. 55 bricks per m²) = €10–€30/m² — but laying them takes considerable time
Decorative tiles / natural stone
For an exclusive finish. Clean modern walls using concrete slabs or a country feel with rubble stone. More expensive but very decorative.
Advantages: beautiful end result, great design freedom
Disadvantages: higher material costs, sometimes more complex construction
Costs: €30 – €100/m² in materials
Required materials (concrete block wall, 10 m x 1 m)
| Material | Quantity | Price (guide) |
|---|---|---|
| Concrete blocks (20x20x40 cm) | ±125 pieces | €250 – €375 |
| Sharp sand (damp) | 300 kg | €15 – €25 |
| Cement (Portland) | 50 kg | €10 – €15 |
| Mortar (ready-mixed) | 4–5 bags | €40 – €60 |
| Concrete mix for foundation | 100 kg | €20 – €30 |
| Reinforcement bars (optional) | 10 pieces | €20 – €40 |
| **Total** | **€355 – €545** |
Tools
- Brick trowel / pointing trowel
- Spirit level (minimum 60 cm)
- Builder’s line and pins
- Rubber mallet
- Spade and wheelbarrow
- Cement mixer (hire: €40–€70/day)
- Angle grinder or block splitter (for cutting to size)
Step-by-step guide: build a garden wall in 8 steps
Step 1: Plan and obtain permissions
Check whether you need planning permission. In the UK, the general rules are:
- Walls up to 1 metre high in the garden: usually permitted development
- Walls higher than 1 metre or close to the boundary: check with your local planning authority
- Walls along the front boundary or next to a public road: always check first
Also measure the exact location and mark it with a builder’s line. Check that you’re not building over the boundary.
Step 2: Dig the foundation
A foundation is essential for any solid garden wall. Without one, the wall will subside and tilt within a few years due to frost and ground movement.
Foundation depth:
- Wall up to 60 cm high: foundation 30–40 cm deep, 40 cm wide
- Wall 60–120 cm high: foundation 40–60 cm deep, 50–60 cm wide
- Wall above 120 cm: have it calculated by a structural engineer
Dig the trench to the correct depth and remove any loose material. Compact the base thoroughly.
Step 3: Pour the foundation
Mix concrete (1 part cement, 5 parts ballast + water) or use ready-mixed concrete. Fill the trench and level the surface.
Reinforcement bars: for walls above 80 cm it’s advisable to place reinforcement bars vertically in the concrete. These bars protrude above the surface and anchor the blocks / bricks later.
Allow the concrete to cure for at least 48 hours before starting to lay.
Step 4: Laying — first course
The first course is the most important. Stretch a builder’s line tightly along the front face of the wall at the desired height. This is your guide.
Apply a bed of mortar to the foundation (approx. 1–2 cm thick). Lay the first block or brick and check with the spirit level that it’s true — both horizontally and lengthways. Tap into position with a rubber mallet.
Corner blocks first: always start with the corners. Set the corner blocks level and stretch a line between the corners. The blocks in between are laid to this line.
Step 5: Laying — building up
Lay each subsequent course in running bond: the joints stagger by half a block / brick per course. This gives the wall its structural strength.
Joint thickness: maintain a consistent course thickness (for split-face blocks 1–1.5 cm, for bricks 1 cm). Use a gauge rod or storey rod to stay consistent.
Check each course for level and plumb. A wall that tilts a few millimetres per course will be visibly out of line after 10 courses.
Step 6: Drainage for retaining walls
If the wall retains soil on one side (a retaining wall), drainage is essential. Without it, water pressure builds up behind the wall and can cause it to collapse.
In the lowest course, leave every 1–2 metres a shorter block so that a gap remains (approx. 5 cm). Lay coarse gravel or a drainage pipe behind the wall for water runoff.
Step 7: Finishing — coping stones
Cap the wall with coping stones. Coping stones are wide and form the top of the wall. They protect the structure from rainwater that would otherwise seep into the joints.
Bed the coping stones in a strong exterior mortar. Let the coping stones overhang the front face by 2–3 cm to throw rainwater clear of the wall.
Step 8: Pointing
Fill all joints with pointing mortar and finish them neatly with a pointing iron. Remove mortar smears immediately with a damp sponge — dried mortar is very difficult to remove.
Tip: use coloured pointing mortar that matches the colour of the blocks. Light joints with light blocks, dark joints with dark blocks.
Common mistakes
- No foundation or an insufficient one. The most common mistake. Without a foundation the wall subsides and leans.
- First course not level. Every error in the first course is amplified throughout the rest of the wall.
- Mortar mixed too wet or too stiff. Mortar should have the consistency of thick peanut butter. Too wet and it runs; too stiff and it won’t bond.
- Rushing ahead. Let each few courses rest for 10–15 minutes before continuing. Fresh mortar is too soft to build on immediately.
- No drainage in retaining walls. Leads to water pressure and bulging, or the wall collapsing.
- Cleaning up mortar after it has set. Always remove mortar smears immediately — after a couple of hours it bonds like concrete.
Combining a garden wall with a patio
A garden wall makes a lovely addition to a patio as seating height (45–50 cm) or as a boundary. Combine it with decking or a concrete patio for a complete garden transformation.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need planning permission for a garden wall?
Walls up to 1 metre high in the back garden are permitted development in most local authority areas. Higher than 1 metre, next to a public road, or closer than 1 metre to the boundary? Then you need to check with your local planning authority. Also check the rules in your local development plan.
How long does it take to build a garden wall?
An experienced DIYer can lay 3–5 m² of wall per day. A wall 10 metres long and 1 metre high takes 2–4 days of work, not including the foundation and drying times.
What’s the difference between split-face blocks and bricks?
Split-face blocks are large concrete blocks (40x20x20 cm, approx. 20 kg) that are quick to lay. Bricks are smaller (21x10x6.5 cm), lighter, and give a finer, more traditional result, but require more skill.
How do I make a garden wall weatherproof?
After laying, apply a coat of masonry sealer or water-repellent treatment to the outside face. Coping stones with a sufficient overhang (2–3 cm) prevent rainwater from seeping into the wall.
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