Buying a ready-made garden fence at the hardware store will easily cost you 150 to 300 euros per section. And then you’re stuck with standard sizes that never fit exactly. Building your own fence takes a weekend, fits your yard perfectly, and is up to 50% cheaper than a prefab solution.
In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know to build a sturdy fence. From choosing the type and material to setting posts, mounting hinges, and the maintenance that keeps your fence looking great for years. With a materials list, cost comparison, and the mistakes you want to avoid.
What Type of Fence Do You Want to Build?
The type of fence determines what materials you need, how you build it, and what it will cost. Choose the type before heading to the hardware store.
Garden Fence (Low Boundary)
A low fence of 80 to 120 cm tall, meant to mark the boundary of your yard without blocking the view. Think of a front yard or a separation between garden and patio. Often with vertical or horizontal pickets.
Suitable for: front yards, decorative boundaries, keeping pets in the yard.
Privacy Fence
A tall fence of 150 to 200 cm that provides privacy. This is the most common type for backyards. Usually with solid boards so neighbors can’t see in. Can be a standard board fence or a decorative panel fence.
Suitable for: backyards, privacy, windbreak, property lines.
Decorative Fence
A fence that looks attractive but is less about privacy. Think of a white picket fence in cottage style, a spaced picket fence around a front yard, or a wrought iron look. Often lower with an open construction.
Suitable for: front yards, farmhouse style, ornamental gardens.
Gate
A single or double swinging section that serves as a passageway. The construction must be sturdier than a fixed fence, because a gate hangs on hinges and is opened and closed daily. Extra attention to hinges and hardware is needed here.
Suitable for: backyard access, driveway, side path.
| Type | Height | Difficulty | Cost per meter (indicative) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Garden fence (low) | 80 – 120 cm | Beginner | 25 – 60 euros |
| Privacy fence | 150 – 200 cm | Medium | 45 – 120 euros |
| Decorative fence | 60 – 120 cm | Medium | 50 – 100 euros |
| Gate | 100 – 200 cm | Advanced | 80 – 200 euros per gate |
Comparing Materials: Wood, Metal, or Composite?
The material determines the appearance, lifespan, and maintenance frequency of your fence. Each material has pros and cons.
Wood
By far the most popular material for a DIY fence. Easy to work with, affordable, and fits virtually any garden. The most commonly used wood types are:
- Pressure-treated pine — affordable, greenish color, lasts 15 – 20 years. The standard choice for boundary fences.
- Douglas fir — warmer brown color, stronger than pine, lasts 20 – 25 years. Popular for a natural look.
- Hardwood (ipe, cumaru, meranti) — extremely durable (25 – 40 years), but expensive and harder to work with. Pre-drilling for screws is mandatory.
- Larch — affordable alternative to hardwood, beautiful golden-brown color, lasts 20 – 25 years.
- Untreated spruce — only suitable if you treat it yourself with wood preservative. Untreated, it rots within 5 years.
Metal
Stronger and lower-maintenance than wood, but harder to build yourself. You need a metal saw and often a welder.
- Steel (coated/powder-coated) — sleek and modern. Lasts 30+ years with good coating. Expensive to buy.
- Aluminum — light, doesn’t rust, maintenance-free. But bends more easily than steel.
- Wrought iron — classic look, heavy and durable. Usually custom-ordered, not really suitable for DIY.
Composite
A mix of wood and plastic. Maintenance-free, doesn’t rot, minimal fading. The price is higher than wood, but you save on maintenance.
- Price: approx. 60 – 120 euros per m² (boards)
- Advantage: no painting, no rotting, color-fast
- Disadvantage: plastic-like appearance, can’t be sanded or touched up, thermal expansion
| Material | Lifespan | Maintenance | Price per m² | DIY-friendly? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated pine | 15 – 20 years | Stain every 3 – 5 years | 10 – 20 euros | Yes, easy |
| Douglas fir | 20 – 25 years | Oil every 3 – 5 years | 18 – 30 euros | Yes, easy |
| Larch | 20 – 25 years | Oil every 3 – 5 years | 15 – 25 euros | Yes, easy |
| Hardwood | 25 – 40 years | Oil yearly (optional) | 35 – 70 euros | Yes, pre-drill |
| Steel | 30+ years | Check coating every 10 years | 50 – 100 euros | Welder needed |
| Composite | 25+ years | None | 60 – 120 euros | Yes, similar to wood |
Required Materials and Tools
Materials (for a wooden garden fence of 10 meters, height 120 cm)
- 6 posts of 8×8 cm (3×3 in), length 180 cm (60 cm in the ground)
- 4 rails (horizontal stringers) per section, 4.5×7 cm
- Fence boards: vertical boards 1.5×10 cm or 2×10 cm, quantity depends on spacing
- Screws: stainless steel or galvanized wood screws 4×40 mm and 5×60 mm
- Concrete (dry mix or ready-mix) for posts: approx. 2 bags of 25 kg per post
- Ground anchors (alternative to concrete): adjustable post bases
- Hinges: heavy-duty gate hinges (minimum 2, preferably 3 per gate)
- Hardware: latch, bolt, or gate lock
- Wood preservative: stain, oil, or exterior paint
Tools
- Cordless drill with bits
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Spirit level (preferably 120 cm / 4 ft)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Shovel and post hole digger (or auger)
- Clamps
- Sander or sandpaper (80 and 120 grit)
- Masking tape and brushes (for finishing)
- String line and stakes for a straight layout
Step-by-Step: Building a Wooden Garden Fence
This step-by-step guide is for a garden fence of pressure-treated pine or Douglas fir, 120 cm tall, with vertical boards. The principles also apply to taller privacy fences.
Step 1: Plan and Mark Out Your Fence Line
Drive stakes into the ground at the beginning and end points of your fence. Stretch a string line between the stakes. This is your reference line. Measure the total length and divide into equal sections of maximum 180 cm (the standard distance between posts).
Note: for a gate, account for the gate width (minimum 90 cm for walk-through, 300 cm for a driveway gate). Gate posts should be heavier: 9×9 cm or 10×10 cm (4×4 in).
Step 2: Set the Posts
This is the most important step. Crooked posts mean a crooked fence. You have two options:
Option A: Setting Posts in Concrete
The most solid method, especially for tall fences and gates.
- Dig holes 60 cm deep and 30×30 cm wide (for fences up to 150 cm). For fences over 150 cm: dig 80 cm deep.
- Add 5 cm of gravel at the bottom for drainage.
- Place the post in the hole and check with a spirit level that it’s plumb. Check on two sides.
- Mix concrete according to package instructions and pour it into the hole. Or use ready-mix concrete.
- Let the concrete cure for at least 24 hours before continuing. In hot weather: keep it moist to prevent cracking.
How much concrete per post? Count on 2 bags of dry-mix concrete (25 kg each) per post at a hole depth of 60 cm.
Option B: Using Ground Anchors / Post Bases
Faster and easier than concrete, but less suitable for tall fences or soft ground.
- Drive a ground anchor (post holder with spike) into the ground using a driving tool. The spike goes 50 – 60 cm into the ground.
- Place the post in the holder and tighten the bolts.
- Check with a spirit level and adjust.
Advantage: no digging, post is up immediately. Disadvantage: less sturdy in clay soil or during strong wind.
| Method | Sturdiness | Install Time per Post | Cost per Post | Suitable For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| In concrete | Very sturdy | 30 – 45 min (+ 24h curing) | 8 – 12 euros | All fences, gates |
| Ground anchor | Sturdy | 10 – 15 min | 12 – 20 euros | Low fences, firm ground |
Step 3: Mount the Rails (Horizontal Stringers)
The rails form the frame to which you attach the boards. Use two or three rails per section, depending on the height:
- Fence up to 120 cm: two rails, at 20 cm and 100 cm from the ground
- Fence 120 – 200 cm: three rails, at 20 cm, 100 cm, and 170 cm from the ground
Screw the rails to the inside of the posts (the garden side) with 5×60 mm screws. Use two screws per connection. Always pre-drill with hardwood to prevent splitting.
Tip: keep the bottom rail at least 10 – 15 cm above the ground. This prevents moisture damage and gives you room to mow under the fence.
Step 4: Attach the Fence Boards
Now the visible work gets done. Distribute the boards evenly across the rails. For a solid privacy fence, leave no gaps between boards. For a picket fence, maintain 3 – 5 cm spacing.
- Start at a post and work toward the other end.
- Use a spacer (a strip of the desired gap width) for even distribution.
- Screw each board with two screws per rail (so 4 screws per board with two rails, 6 with three rails).
- Check regularly with a spirit level that the boards are plumb.
Tip: want a fence with an arched top? First attach all boards at the same height, then draw the arch with a flexible strip and cut all boards at once. That’s more accurate than cutting each board separately.
Step 5: Build and Hang the Gate
A gate is a separate fence section that hangs on hinges. The construction must be sturdier, because the gate carries its own weight on the hinges.
- Build the gate frame: make a rectangle from rails (top, bottom, two sides). Add a diagonal brace from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side. This brace prevents the gate from sagging.
- Attach the boards to the frame, just like the rest of the fence.
- Mount the hinges: use at least two heavy-duty gate hinges (for gates over 120 cm: three hinges). Screw them first to the gate, then to the post.
- Hang the gate: leave at least 1 cm clearance at the bottom for uneven ground.
- Mount the hardware: choose a garden latch, hasp with padlock, or a gate lock with handle.
Choosing Hinges
| Hinge Type | Load Capacity | Suitable For | Price per Set |
|---|---|---|---|
| T-hinges (strap hinges) | Up to 30 kg | Light gates up to 100 cm | 5 – 15 euros |
| Adjustable gate hinges | Up to 50 kg | Standard garden gates | 20 – 40 euros |
| Heavy-duty pintle hinges | Up to 80 kg | Wide and tall gates | 30 – 60 euros |
| Self-closing hinges | Up to 40 kg | Gates that must close automatically | 35 – 50 euros |
Important: always use stainless steel or galvanized hinges. Untreated steel rusts stuck within a season.
Step 6: Finishing and Protection
Untreated wood weathers quickly. Apply a protective coat within two weeks of installation:
- Stain (transparent or opaque): shows the wood structure, protects against moisture and UV. Reapply every 3 – 5 years.
- Exterior paint (opaque): fully covering, best protection. Popular in white, anthracite, or black. Reapply every 5 – 7 years.
- Wood oil: natural look, penetrates the wood. Refresh yearly.
Tip: also treat the ends of the boards and the bottom of the posts with extra care. That’s where rot starts first.
Regulations: What to Watch Out For
Before you start building, check the rules. Otherwise you risk having to tear your fence down.
Permits
- Up to 200 cm tall in the backyard: usually no permit needed, as long as the fence is on your own property and set back from the public road.
- In the front yard: maximum 100 cm tall without a permit in most municipalities.
- Taller than 200 cm: typically requires a building permit.
- Historic properties or conservation areas: always check with your local authority.
General advice: requirements vary by location. Check with your local building department or municipality before starting.
Property Lines
- A fence on the property line is a shared responsibility. Your neighbor must agree and share costs (50/50) if it’s a shared boundary fence.
- If you place the fence entirely on your own property, you decide the design, but it can’t exceed the height your local authority allows.
- Always check official property surveys for the exact boundary line. A difference of a few inches can cause unpleasant disputes.
Good Neighbor Practices
In many places, your neighbor can be required to share the cost of a reasonable boundary fence. The specifics vary by jurisdiction, but the general principle is:
– The fence must be on the property line
– The costs must be reasonable
– The fence must meet local regulations
Tip: always discuss your plans with your neighbors before you start. Prevents problems afterward.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs Ready-Made
The big question: how much do you save by doing it yourself? Below is a comparison for a straight privacy fence of 10 meters, 180 cm tall, in pressure-treated pine.
| Cost Item | DIY | Ready-made fence panels | Professional installation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Materials (posts, rails, boards) | 180 – 280 euros | 300 – 500 euros | 300 – 500 euros |
| Concrete and fasteners | 50 – 80 euros | Included | 50 – 80 euros |
| Hinges and hardware (gate) | 30 – 60 euros | 40 – 80 euros | 40 – 80 euros |
| Tools (if you don’t have them) | 0 – 150 euros | n/a | n/a |
| Labor | Free (your own time) | n/a | 400 – 800 euros |
| Finishing (stain/paint) | 30 – 50 euros | Often included | 50 – 100 euros |
| Total | 290 – 620 euros | 340 – 580 euros | 840 – 1,560 euros |
Building it yourself saves you mainly on labor costs. Compared to a professional, you save 400 to 800 euros on 10 meters of fencing. And you get exactly the design you want.
Note: don’t have tools? Many hardware stores rent circular saws, post hole diggers, and cordless drills by the day. Saves a significant investment.
Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
1. Not Setting Posts Deep Enough
The most common mistake. A post that’s only 30 cm in the ground will lean in the first storm. Rule of thumb: at least one-third of the total post length goes in the ground. For a 180 cm tall fence, use 270 cm posts (90 cm in the ground).
2. No Diagonal Brace in the Gate
A gate without a brace will sag within a year. The brace always runs from the bottom on the hinge side to the top on the latch side. Not the other way around.
3. Using the Wrong Screws
Regular steel screws will rust outdoors within a few months. Always use stainless steel (A2 or A4) or at least galvanized screws. The extra cost is a few euros; the savings in frustration is priceless.
4. Placing the Fence Directly on the Ground
Wood that touches the ground rots much faster. Always maintain at least 5 cm of clearance between the bottom of the fence and the ground. For posts: use pressure-treated wood or apply extra wood preservative to the bottom.
5. Not Checking for Underground Utilities
Before you dig holes: call 811 (in the US) or your local utility locating service to check for underground cables and pipes. A shovel through a fiber optic cable is an expensive mistake.
6. Not Letting Concrete Cure
Impatience is the enemy of a sturdy fence. Let the concrete cure for at least 24 hours (preferably 48 hours) before mounting rails and boards. Start too early and the posts will shift under the weight.
Maintenance: How to Make Your Fence Last for Years
A well-maintained wooden fence lasts 15 to 25 years. Neglect it, and it’ll need replacing in 5 to 8 years.
Yearly Maintenance
- Remove moss, algae, and dirt with a brush and mild soap. Only use a pressure washer on low setting (otherwise it damages the wood fibers).
- Check all connections: are the screws still tight? Are the hinges smooth?
- Check the bottom of the posts for rot. Soft wood at the ground line is a sign that replacement is needed.
Periodic Maintenance (Every 3 – 5 Years)
- Lightly sand the fence with 120 grit.
- Apply a fresh coat of stain, oil, or paint.
- Replace any rotted boards or rails. The advantage of a DIY fence: you only replace the part that’s damaged, not the entire section.
Maintenance Schedule by Material
| Material | Yearly | Every 3-5 Years | Every 10 Years |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated pine | Clean, inspect | Re-stain | Check posts for rot |
| Douglas fir | Clean, inspect | Oil | Check posts for rot |
| Hardwood | Clean | Oil (optional) | Nothing, weathers beautifully |
| Composite | Clean | Nothing | Nothing |
| Steel (coated) | Clean | Touch up rust spots | Renew coating |
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep should fence posts be in the ground?
At least one-third of the total post length. For a 120 cm tall fence, use 180 cm posts (60 cm in the ground). For a 180 cm tall fence, use 270 cm posts (90 cm in the ground). In loose or wet ground, go an extra 10 cm deeper.
Do I need a permit for a fence in my yard?
In the backyard, a fence up to 200 cm tall is usually permit-free. In the front yard, a maximum of 100 cm applies in most areas. Always check with your local building department, as there can be exceptions (conservation areas, corner lots).
Can I build a fence alone or do I need help?
A low garden fence you can easily build alone. For a tall privacy fence (180 cm+) or a wide gate, an extra pair of hands is helpful: someone to hold the post straight while you pour concrete, or to lift the gate while you screw in the hinges.
What wood is best for an outdoor fence?
Pressure-treated pine offers the best value for most garden fences. Want a warmer look without paint? Choose Douglas fir or larch. Want a fence that lasts 25+ years with minimal maintenance? Go for hardwood like ipe or cumaru.
What does it cost to have a fence professionally installed?
Expect 40 to 80 euros per meter for installation, on top of material costs. A complete wooden fence of 10 meters by a professional costs an average of 840 to 1,560 euros. Doing it yourself costs 290 to 620 euros in materials.
Can my neighbor refuse to split the cost of a boundary fence?
In many jurisdictions, if the fence is on the property line, your neighbor can be required to share the cost of a reasonable boundary fence up to a standard height (often around 200 cm). The costs are typically split 50/50. If the fence is entirely on your property, you pay for everything yourself but also get to decide the design. Check your local laws for specifics.
Want to learn more about DIY and home improvement? Check out the building plans and guides at fredsdiyplans.com — more than 10,000 DIYers have gone before you.