Building a dog kennel yourself costs €50 to €200 in materials, depending on the size and finish. A ready-made wooden kennel of comparable quality will set you back €150 to €400. Building your own saves you half the cost — and you can tailor it precisely to the size of your dog. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide with a materials list, the correct dimensions for different dog sizes and tips on insulation and weatherproofing.
Build vs Buy: Cost Comparison
| DIY | Ready-made | |
|---|---|---|
| **Small kennel (up to 10 kg)** | €50 – €100 | €80 – €200 |
| **Medium kennel (10–30 kg)** | €80 – €150 | €150 – €350 |
| **Large kennel (30+ kg)** | €120 – €200 | €250 – €500 |
| **With insulation** | +€20 – €50 | +€50 – €150 |
| **Savings** | 40–60% | — |
Building your own is worthwhile if you already have tools. Are you a beginner? Start with a simple model with a flat or pitched roof — it is the easiest to construct.
Correct Dimensions by Dog Size
A dog kennel must be large enough for your dog to stand upright and turn around, but also small enough to retain body warmth. Too large is impractical and cold.
| Dog weight | Internal dimensions (W × D × H) | Entrance opening (W × H) |
|---|---|---|
| **Small dog (< 10 kg)** | 50 × 60 × 55 cm | 20 × 30 cm |
| **Medium dog (10–25 kg)** | 70 × 80 × 70 cm | 30 × 45 cm |
| **Large dog (25–40 kg)** | 90 × 100 × 85 cm | 35 × 55 cm |
| **Very large dog (40+ kg)** | 110 × 120 × 100 cm | 40 × 60 cm |
Rule of thumb: the dog should be able to stand 10 cm taller than its shoulder height inside the kennel. The entrance opening should be 80% of the shoulder height — this keeps out draughts while still allowing the dog to get in and out comfortably.
Required Materials (medium kennel, 70×80×70 cm)
| Material | Size | Quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 18 mm plywood (spruce or FSC) | Various | 1 sheet (122×244 cm) | €40 – €60 |
| Timber battens 45×45 mm | Frame | 4 metres | €10 – €15 |
| Stainless steel screws 4×40 mm | 100 pieces | €8 – €12 | |
| Bitumen roofing felt | Roof | 1 roll | €10 – €20 |
| Roof battens | 2 metres | €5 – €8 | |
| Hinge + hook (removable roof) | 2 pieces | €5 – €10 | |
| Wood paint/stain (exterior) | 1 tin | €15 – €25 | |
| **Total** | **€93 – €150** |
Tools
- Circular saw or hand saw
- Drill + bits
- Spirit level
- Sander (or sandpaper 80/120 grit)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Paintbrush or roller
Step-by-Step Guide: Building a Dog Kennel in 8 Steps
Step 1: Draw Up a Design and Cut All Parts to Size
Sketch the kennel on paper: floor, side walls, back wall, front panel with entrance and roof. Cut all parts from an 18 mm plywood sheet.
Standard parts (medium kennel):
- Floor: 70 × 80 cm (1 piece)
- Side walls: 70 × 70 cm (2 pieces) — or angled for a pitched roof
- Back wall: 70 × 70 cm (1 piece)
- Front panel: 70 × 70 cm with entrance cutout (1 piece)
- Roof: 90 × 90 cm (flat roof with 10 cm overhang all round)
Tip: cut the tops of the side walls at an angle (10–15 degrees) if you want a pitched roof. This allows rainwater to run off more effectively.
Step 2: Build the Base Frame
Screw four 45×45 mm timber battens as a frame under the floor panel. This raises the kennel off the ground (prevents moisture ingress) and gives the structure rigidity.
Frame corners: exactly 10 mm smaller than the floor panel on all sides. This way the floor panel overhangs slightly and protects the frame from rain.
Step 3: Sand and Treat All Parts
Sand all parts before assembly (grit 80, then 120). Then apply a primer coat of wood paint or stain to all external surfaces — including the edges (cut faces). Do this before assembly, because you won’t be able to reach everywhere afterwards.
Step 4: Assemble the Walls
Screw the back wall and side walls to the floor panel. Use at least 4 screws per joint. After each wall, check with a spirit level that the kennel is straight.
Then screw the front panel (with entrance) onto the frame. Round off the edges of the entrance with sandpaper — sharp edges can injure the dog.
Step 5: Build the Roof (Removable)
Make the roof removable — this makes cleaning much easier. Screw two hinges to the back of the roof panel and fix the other halves of the hinges to the back wall.
At the front: fit a hook and eye so the roof can be secured and won’t blow open in the wind.
Step 6: Waterproof the Roof
Cover the roof with bitumen roofing felt. Lay the felt so that it overhangs the roof edges by 2–3 cm all round. Fix with a staple gun or roofing nails. Seal the joins with bitumen tape.
Alternative: use an HPL board (such as Trespa) for the roof — fully waterproof, smooth and easy to clean.
Step 7: Line the Floor
Line the interior floor with a piece of plywood or a rubber mat. Rubber mats of 10–15 mm thickness are ideal — they insulate against the cold ground, are easy to clean and last a long time.
Step 8: Final Treatment and Positioning
Apply a second coat of stain or exterior paint to all external surfaces. Choose a colour that suits the garden or matches the house. Allow the kennel 24–48 hours of drying time before the dog moves in.
Place the kennel in a dry, sheltered spot — out of the wind and not in full sun during summer. If needed, raise it on rubber feet or concrete paving slabs so that the base does not come into contact with wet ground.
Adding Insulation
Want to use the kennel in winter? Add insulation:
Option 1: PIR insulation boards (best thermal performance)
- Glue 20–30 mm PIR boards to the inside of all walls
- Then line with thin timber boards (8 mm) so the dog cannot chew the insulation
Option 2: Double-wall construction
- Build double walls with a 30 mm air gap
- Fill with glass wool or PU foam
Tip: always insulate the roof — the greatest heat loss occurs through the roof.
Common Mistakes
- Making the kennel too large. An oversized kennel will not warm up from the dog’s body heat. Use the measurements for the dog’s weight shown above.
- Not raising the floor off the ground. A kennel sitting directly on the ground will draw up moisture. Use a frame or feet.
- Not rounding off the entrance edges. Sharp edges at the entrance opening can injure the dog.
- No removable roof. After 6 months you’ll want to clean the kennel — a fixed roof makes this almost impossible.
- Using cheap plywood. Use FSC-certified 18 mm plywood — thinner or cheaper boards split with changes in moisture.
Maintenance
- Annually: sand and repaint the exterior
- Every 2–3 weeks: sweep out the kennel and clean the interior floor
- After winter: inspect the roof for damage to the roofing felt
Frequently Asked Questions
Which wood is best for a dog kennel?
18 mm plywood (FSC spruce or poplar) is the best choice. Never use chipboard or MDF — they are not moisture-resistant and will disintegrate outdoors. Always treat the wood with exterior paint or stain.
How large should the entrance of a dog kennel be?
The entrance should be 80% of the dog’s shoulder height, but at least large enough for the dog to get in and out comfortably without stooping. An opening that is too large lets in too much draught.
Does a dog kennel need to be insulated?
For outdoor use in winter, insulation is strongly recommended. Without insulation, a dog kennel is only suitable as a sleeping place in temperatures above 5 °C. Add PIR insulation boards to all walls and the roof.
How do I keep the kennel dry?
Raise it off the ground (frame or feet), waterproof the roof with roofing felt and apply a fresh coat of exterior paint or stain at regular intervals. Do not place the kennel under a tree where leaves accumulate and trap moisture.
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