Building a chicken run yourself costs €80 to €200 in materials. Ready-made chicken runs of comparable quality cost €150 to €500. Building your own saves considerably — and you can tailor the size to your garden and the number of birds you keep. A chicken run is the outdoor area next to the hen house — where chickens can roam freely during the day, scratch about and dust-bathe. This article provides a complete step-by-step guide to building a safe and practical chicken run.
DIY vs. Ready-Made
| Build yourself | Buy ready-made | |
|---|---|---|
| **Small chicken run (2x3m)** | €80 – €150 | €150 – €350 |
| **Large chicken run (4x5m)** | €150 – €250 | €350 – €700 |
| **With covered section** | +€30 – €80 | +€100 – €200 |
| **Saving** | 40–50% | — |
Space Per Chicken
Chickens need space to stay healthy and content:
- Minimum: 2–3 m² per bird in the outdoor run
- Recommended: 4–5 m² per bird (more grass, less stress, less feather pecking)
- Bantams (small breeds): 1.5–2 m² is sufficient
Materials Required (Chicken Run 3x4m)
| Material | Quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated posts 80×80 mm | 6 pieces at 200 cm | €40 – €60 |
| Hexagonal wire mesh / chicken wire (19mm aperture, 19-gauge) | 3x10m roll | €35 – €70 |
| Cut mesh for the base (mink mesh optional) | 12 m² | €20 – €40 |
| Roofing timber + corrugated sheets (partial cover) | 3 m² | €25 – €50 |
| Hinges + bolt (door) | 1 set | €10 – €20 |
| Framing timber 45×70 mm | approx. 20 metres | €20 – €35 |
| Staples (staple gun) | 1 box | €8 – €15 |
| **Total** | **€158 – €290** |
Step-by-Step Guide: Build a Chicken Run in 8 Steps
Step 1: Choose the Location
A good site for the chicken run:
- Partially shaded (chickens suffer in full sun)
- Close to the hen house
- Away from potential hiding spots for predators (bushes, log piles)
- On ground with sufficient drainage so it doesn’t flood in wet weather
Step 2: Set the Posts
Drive the corner posts and intermediate posts into the ground. Use pressure-treated (tanalised) posts approved for ground contact.
- Depth: at least 50–60 cm in the ground
- Height above ground: 150–180 cm (chickens cannot jump high, but foxes and mink can climb)
- Spacing between posts: maximum 2 metres
Use a post driver or heavy hammer to drive the posts in. Check with a spirit level that the posts are vertical.
Step 3: Fit the Top Frame
Connect the posts at the top with horizontal rails (45×70 mm). This forms the upper structure to which the wire mesh and any roofing will be attached.
Step 4: Fix the Wire Mesh to the Side Panels
Use hexagonal chicken wire (fox wire, 19mm aperture, 19-gauge wire thickness). Unroll the mesh along the posts and fix with staples (staple gun or hammer staples).
Critical point: the mesh must be buried in the ground or bent outwards at the base. A fox or badger will dig under wire. Fix the mesh at the bottom to a horizontal rail resting on the ground AND bury the mesh 30–40 cm into the ground, or bend it 30 cm horizontally outwards along the ground.
Step 5: Build and Fit the Door
Build a simple door from 45×70 mm timber and chicken wire. The door must be wide enough to walk through with a wheelbarrow (minimum 80 cm).
Hang the door with 2–3 strong hinges. Fit a robust bolt — foxes are clever and can open simple fastenings.
Step 6: Covering (Top Mesh or Roof)
Cover the top of the run to keep out birds and climbing predators:
Option A: Wire mesh on top
Stretch chicken wire over the top frame. Not storm-proof but functional. Advantage: inexpensive.
Option B: Partial roof
Cover 30–50% of the run with corrugated sheets or timber boarding. This gives the chickens shelter from rain and provides a shady spot. The rest remains open with wire mesh.
Step 7: Ground Protection
There are two approaches:
- Bury the mesh in the ground: see Step 4
- Bent mesh apron: bend 30 cm of mesh horizontally outwards on the ground and cover with soil or stones. Foxes will keep digging until they meet resistance — the bent apron works.
Step 8: Finishing and Fitting Out
Add to the run:
- Dust bath (tray with sand, ash and diatomaceous earth) — chickens dust-bathe to combat parasites
- Branches or perches in the run — chickens love to climb
- Drinker raised on legs — harder to contaminate than one on the ground
- Feed station (sheltered) — outside the run or in the covered section
Predator Protection: The Weak Points
Most problems come from:
- Digging (fox, badger): bury the mesh or bend it horizontally
- Climbing (mink, marten): use at least 18-gauge wire (heavier gauge), no aperture larger than 25 mm
- Biting through (mink, marten): these predators can bite through thin hexagonal wire. Use mink mesh (2.5 cm x 1 cm aperture, heavy gauge wire) for the bottom 50–80 cm
- Entering from above (marten): always close off the top
Tip: check the chicken run every week for damage. Small tears in the wire mesh are an early warning of a break-in.
Frequently Asked Questions
How large should a chicken run be?
Allow at least 2–3 m² per bird. For 5 chickens: at least 10–15 m². More is always better — chickens that are too crowded will peck each other.
How do I protect my chicken run against foxes?
Use heavy wire mesh (19-gauge or heavier), bury it 40 cm into the ground or bend it 30 cm outwards, cover the top and use robust bolts. Always lock the chickens in the hen house at night.
Does a chicken run need planning permission?
In most cases, no — chicken runs are exempt from planning permission. Check with your local authority whether there are any rules about keeping chickens (some councils have regulations).
Ready to start building with professional plans? At fredsdiyplans.com you’ll find building plans for all your wood projects, complete with material lists and step-by-step instructions.
Ready to get started? Browse thousands of step-by-step plans at fredsdiyplans.com.