Building a bar yourself costs an average of $170 to $680 in materials, depending on the bar type, wood species, and finish. A comparable ready-made bar or kitchen bar costs $450 to $2,250. You save a lot and build a bar that fits perfectly in your kitchen, living room, man cave, or backyard. In this guide, you will learn the right dimensions, which materials you need, the difference between a kitchen bar and a home bar, and how to build a sturdy bar step by step.
What Does It Cost to Build a Bar? DIY vs. Buying
Cost Comparison
| DIY (materials) | Ready-made | |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen bar / breakfast bar (48×16 in) | $115 – $280 | $280 – $680 |
| Home bar (60×24 in) | $225 – $510 | $565 – $1,700 |
| Home bar with cabinet and shelf (72×24 in) | $280 – $680 | $900 – $2,250 |
| Outdoor bar (60×24 in) | $170 – $450 | $450 – $1,350 |
Prices include wood, screws, glue, and basic finishing. Excluding bar stools, lighting, and accessories.
When Is DIY Worth It?
For a bar, DIY is almost always worth it:
- Custom fit. A bar has to fit the available space. Ready-made bars rarely do.
- Appearance. A handmade bar from solid wood, reclaimed lumber, or with a stone base is unique. You cannot buy that at IKEA.
- Functionality. You decide whether there is a footrest, storage, glass rail, mini-fridge niche, or draft beer system.
- Budget. A simple kitchen bar from reclaimed wood can be built for under $170. A comparable piece of furniture costs three times that in a store.
What Type of Bar Are You Building?
Bar Types Compared
| Type | Dimensions (LxWxH) | Suited For | Difficulty | Budget |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kitchen bar / breakfast bar | 48–72 x 14–18 x 36–38 in | Kitchen, room divider | Easy | $115 – $280 |
| Home bar (standing) | 60–80 x 20–24 x 43–45 in | Living room, man cave, rec room | Medium | $225 – $510 |
| Home bar with storage | 60–80 x 20–24 x 43–45 in | Living room, man cave | Medium-hard | $280 – $680 |
| Outdoor bar | 60–80 x 20–24 x 43–45 in | Backyard, patio, covered porch | Medium | $170 – $450 |
| Wall-mounted bar (fold-down) | 32–48 x 14–16 x 43 in | Small balcony, narrow space | Easy | $70 – $170 |
The Right Dimensions
The height of your bar determines which stools fit and how comfortable it is to sit or stand. There are two standard heights.
Bar and Countertop Height
| Type | Top Height | Matching Stool | When to Choose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kitchen bar (counter height) | 36 – 38 in | Bar stool with 24–26 in seat height | When the bar connects to the kitchen counter, or when you also want to work standing |
| High bar (bar height) | 43 – 45 in | Bar stool with 30–32 in seat height | For a real bar experience, home bar, outdoor bar |
Rule of thumb: The difference between the top height and the stool seat height is 10–12 inches. For a bar at 43 inches, choose stools with a seat height of 31–33 inches.
Other Dimensions
| Component | Measurement | Explanation |
|---|---|---|
| Top width | 16 – 24 in | 16 in for a kitchen bar, 20–24 in for a home bar with storage |
| Length per person | 24 in | Allow 24 inches of bar length per person sitting side by side |
| Footrest height | 8 – 10 in above the floor | Essential for comfort at a high bar |
| Top overhang | 10 – 12 in | The space for your knees when sitting on a stool |
| Knee space depth | At least 12 in | So your legs do not bump against the inside of the bar |
Important: the overhang. The top must extend 10–12 inches on the side where you sit. Without overhang, your knees hit the bar. This is the most forgotten measurement among DIY builders.
Choosing Materials
Materials by Bar Type
| Component | Indoor Bar | Outdoor Bar |
|---|---|---|
| Frame/construction | Pine, reclaimed lumber, MDF, plywood | Cedar, redwood, pressure-treated pine, reclaimed lumber (treated) |
| Top | Solid wood (oak, maple), plywood + polyurethane, reclaimed lumber, butcher block | Cedar, hardwood, reclaimed lumber (treated), composite |
| Front cladding | Reclaimed lumber, plywood, MDF + paint, decorative trim | Reclaimed lumber (treated), cedar, composite |
| Finish | Polyurethane, oil, stain, paint | Exterior stain, wood oil, exterior paint |
Materials List: Home Bar (60x24x43 in)
| Material | Quantity | Estimated Price |
|---|---|---|
| Top (solid oak or maple, 1-1/4 in) | 60 x 24 in | $70 – $170 |
| Frame uprights (2×3 pine) | 4 pieces, 42.5 in | $17 – $34 |
| Frame cross pieces (2×3 pine) | 6 pieces, 20 in | $14 – $28 |
| Frame long pieces (2×3 pine) | 4 pieces, 55 in | $17 – $34 |
| Front cladding (reclaimed lumber 1×8) | 6–7 boards, 60 in | $23 – $45 |
| Shelf (3/4 in plywood) | 55 x 18 in | $12 – $23 |
| Footrest (1 in steel pipe or wood strip) | 1 piece, 60 in | $12 – $28 |
| Footrest brackets | 2 pieces | $9 – $17 |
| Stainless steel wood screws (#10 x 2 in and #10 x 3 in) | 1 box each | $17 – $28 |
| Wood glue (Type II) | 1 bottle, 16 oz | $9 – $14 |
| Polyurethane, oil, or stain | 1–2 quarts | $17 – $45 |
Total material costs: $205 – $465
Tools
Essential:
– Cordless drill with bit set
– Circular saw or miter saw
– Random orbital sander
– Clamps (at least 4)
– Tape measure, pencil, speed square
– Level
Helpful but not essential:
– Router (for rounding the top edges)
– Jigsaw (for cutouts)
– Brad nailer (for cladding)
Step-by-Step Guide: Build a Home Bar in 9 Steps
Step 1: Make a Drawing and Cut List
Draw your bar to scale with all measurements. Determine:
– The exact position in the room
– The height (36–38 in or 43–45 in)
– Whether a footrest is included
– Whether there is storage (shelves, cabinet) inside the bar
– Which side the top overhang is on
Step 2: Cut All Parts to Size
Cut list for home bar (60x24x43 in):
| Part | Quantity | Length | Material |
|---|---|---|---|
| Uprights (legs) | 4 | 42.5 in | 2×3 pine |
| Top cross pieces | 2 | 20 in | 2×3 |
| Bottom cross pieces | 2 | 20 in | 2×3 |
| Middle cross pieces (shelf) | 2 | 20 in | 2×3 |
| Top long pieces | 2 | 55 in | 2×3 |
| Bottom long pieces | 2 | 55 in | 2×3 |
| Top | 1 | 60 x 24 in | Solid wood, 1-1/4 in |
| Shelf | 1 | 55 x 18 in | 3/4 in plywood |
| Front cladding boards | 6–7 | 60 in | Reclaimed lumber 1×8 |
Step 3: Build the Two Side Frames
- Lay 2 uprights side by side on a flat surface.
- Attach a cross piece at the top (top of the uprights) and a cross piece 6 inches from the bottom.
- Attach a cross piece at the height where the shelf will go (about 20–24 inches above the floor).
- Use 2 screws (#10 x 3 in) plus wood glue per joint.
- Check with a speed square that the frame is square.
- Repeat for the second side frame.
Step 4: Connect the Side Frames
- Stand the two side frames upright at the correct distance (55 in inside measurement).
- Connect them at the top with 2 long pieces (front and back).
- Connect them at the bottom with 2 long pieces.
- Screw each joint with 2 screws (#10 x 3 in) plus wood glue.
- Check the diagonals and make sure the frame does not wobble.
Step 5: Install the Shelf
- Place the plywood shelf (55×18 in) on the middle cross pieces.
- Screw it down with 4–6 screws (#10 x 1-5/8 in).
- This shelf serves as storage for bottles, glasses, or bar tools.
Step 6: Attach the Front Cladding
- Start at the bottom and work upward.
- Screw each reclaimed lumber board to the long pieces with 2 stainless steel screws per attachment point.
- Leave 1/8″–3/16″ spacing between boards for a rustic look. Or mount them tight for a smooth look.
- Cut the top board to fit if it extends above the frame.
Alternative: Use 3/4″ plywood as cladding and paint it in a color of your choice. This gives a sleek, modern look.
Step 7: Mount the Top
- Place the top on the frame. The top extends 10–12 inches on the side where the bar stools go (the knee space).
- Screw the top from underneath through the upper long pieces. Use 6–8 screws (#10 x 1-5/8 in). Pre-drill to prevent splitting.
- Check with a level that the top is level.
Tip: Round the edges of the top with a router (1/4 in or 3/8 in roundover bit). Sharp edges at bar height are uncomfortable on your forearms.
Step 8: Install the Footrest
A footrest is essential for a high bar (43–45 in). Without a footrest, your legs dangle uncomfortably.
- Attach 2 footrest brackets to the front of the bar, 8–10 inches above the floor.
- Place the steel pipe or wood strip in the brackets.
- Make sure the footrest is securely attached — it regularly bears weight.
Budget option: Use a reclaimed lumber board (2×4) as a footrest instead of a steel pipe. Attach it with 2 angle brackets.
Step 9: Finishing
Indoor bar:
1. Sand the entire piece with 120–150 grit.
2. Treat the top with hard wax oil (2 coats) or satin polyurethane. Hard wax oil resists stains from drinks.
3. Paint or stain the cladding and frame in the desired color.
4. Let dry for at least 24 hours.
Outdoor bar:
1. Treat all surfaces with 2 coats of exterior stain or wood oil.
2. Treat the underside and end grain as well.
3. Let cure for at least 48 hours.
Indoor Bar vs. Outdoor Bar: What to Watch Out For
| Aspect | Indoor Bar | Outdoor Bar |
|---|---|---|
| Wood species | Pine, MDF, plywood, oak | Cedar, redwood, pressure-treated pine, hardwood |
| Fasteners | Standard screws or stainless steel | Always stainless steel (304 or 316) |
| Glue | Type I or Type II | Type II or Type III (waterproof) |
| Finish | Polyurethane, oil, paint | Exterior stain, oil, exterior paint |
| Top | Solid wood, stone, butcher block | Weather-resistant wood, composite, natural stone |
| Footrest | Wood or steel | Stainless steel or galvanized steel |
| Extras | Lighting (LED strip under top), glass rail | Drainage, cover, weatherproof outlet |
Tip for outdoor bar: Build the bar under a pergola or roof. Direct sunlight bleaches the finish and rain is wood’s biggest enemy. Under a roof, your outdoor bar will last twice as long.
Tips and Common Mistakes
Common Mistakes
- No overhang for knee space. Without 10–12 inches of overhang, your knees hit the bar. This is the most common mistake.
- Wrong height. A bar at counter height (36 in) with bar stools of 32-inch seat height is uncomfortable. Match the height to the stools.
- No footrest on a high bar. At 43 inches, your legs hang in the air on a stool. A footrest at 8–10 inches is essential.
- Top too narrow. At 12 inches wide, there is barely room for a plate next to a glass. At least 16 inches, preferably 20–24 inches.
- Top not level. A crooked bar = rolling glasses. Always check with a level.
- No protection on the top. Wet glasses, spilled drinks, and heat (hot plates) damage untreated wood immediately. Always treat the top with hard wax oil or polyurethane.
Tips
LED lighting. Mount an LED strip under the edge of the top, on the side where you sit. Creates atmospheric bar lighting that costs little ($12–$23 for a 6-foot LED strip).
Glass rail. Mount a wood or steel strip on the back edge of the top (1–2 inches high) as a glass rail. Prevents glasses from sliding off the bar and gives an authentic bar look.
Bottle rack. Build a simple bottle rack on the inside of the bar with horizontal strips. Takes 20 minutes of extra work and looks professional.
Stools. Buy the bar stools before you start building and measure the seat height. Adjust the bar height if needed. Nothing is more annoying than stools that do not match the bar.
Frequently Asked Questions
How high should a bar be?
There are two standard heights: 36–38 inches (kitchen bar/counter height) and 43–45 inches (true bar height). Choose 36–38 inches if the bar connects to your kitchen counter or if you want to work standing at it. Choose 43–45 inches for a home bar or outdoor bar.
How much does it cost to build a bar yourself?
A simple kitchen bar costs $115 to $280 in materials. A home bar with storage costs $280 to $680. Compare that to $565 to $2,250 for a ready-made bar.
What is the best wood for a bar?
For an indoor bar: pine for the frame, solid oak or maple for the top. For an outdoor bar: cedar or pressure-treated pine for the frame, hardwood or composite for the top.
How wide should a bar be?
At least 16 inches for a kitchen bar, 20–24 inches for a home bar with storage underneath. Do not forget that the top needs to overhang 10–12 inches for knee space.
Can I build a bar from reclaimed wood?
Yes, reclaimed lumber is a popular choice for both indoor and outdoor bars. It gives a rustic, industrial look. Use new reclaimed wood for the structure and treat the top extra well (hard wax oil or polyurethane) so it resists stains and moisture.
Building Plans and Guides
Ready to get started with professional building plans and step-by-step guides? Check out the complete building plans package at fredsdiyplans.com — with thousands of plans for every DIY project.
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