Hanging a door yourself costs €50 to €300 in materials, depending on the door itself and whether a new frame is needed. A door only (without frame) costs €30–€150. A complete set including frame and door costs €100–€400. Having it done by a carpenter will cost €100–€300 in labour. Hanging an interior door is a task you can do perfectly well yourself with patience and the right approach. This article provides a complete step-by-step guide — from measuring up to the door swinging open smoothly.
What Does Hanging a Door Cost? DIY vs. Carpenter
| DIY | Carpenter | |
|---|---|---|
| **Fit interior door (existing frame)** | €30 – €150 (door) | €130 – €350 (door + labour) |
| **Fit interior door + new frame** | €100 – €400 (materials) | €300 – €700 (incl. labour) |
| **Hinges + door furniture** | €15 – €50 | €50 – €150 (incl. labour) |
| **Saving by doing it yourself** | 50–65% | — |
What Do You Need?
Tools
| Tool | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Spirit level (120 cm) | Hanging the door straight |
| Hammer + wood chisel | Chiselling out hinge recesses |
| Saw (hand or circular) | Cutting the door to size |
| Drill + bits | Pre-drilling screw holes |
| Pencil + tape measure | Marking out |
| Try square | Checking squareness |
| Nails or screws | Fixing |
Materials
| Material | Price |
|---|---|
| Interior door (bespoke or standard) | €30 – €200 |
| Hinges (3 pieces, galvanised or stainless steel) | €10 – €30 |
| Strike plate + latch case (handle + latch) | €15 – €50 |
| Door threshold / draught seal (optional) | €5 – €15 |
| Wooden wedge (for positioning) | €1 – €5 |
| **Total materials** | **€61 – €300** |
Step 1: Measure the Frame
Measuring is the foundation. Measure the clear opening of the frame at three points: top, middle and bottom (both width and height). Note the smallest measurement — that is your critical dimension.
Standard door sizes:
- Width: 61 cm, 73 cm, 78 cm, 83 cm, 88 cm, 93 cm, 98 cm
- Height: 197.5 cm, 201.5 cm, 211.5 cm
The door must always be smaller than the opening, with a clearance of:
- Top: 2–3 mm
- Sides: 2–3 mm per side
- Bottom: 5–10 mm (depending on floor covering)
If the door is too large: cut to size. If the door is too small: a new door is required.
Step 2: Cut the Door to Size (if necessary)
Timber doors can generally be trimmed by sawing. Maximum trimming allowance:
- Bottom: maximum 15 mm
- Top: maximum 10 mm
- Sides: maximum 6 mm per side
Use a circular saw or handsaw. Apply masking tape along the cutting line to prevent break-out. Always cut from the finished face.
After sawing: plane the edges smooth and treat the cut edge with wood paint or wood sealant (to prevent moisture absorption).
Step 3: Mark the Hinge Positions
Standard hinge positions for an interior door:
- Top hinge: 175–200 mm from the top of the door
- Bottom hinge: 250–300 mm from the bottom of the door
- Middle hinge: exactly in the centre (obligatory for doors taller than 200 cm)
Mark these positions on the door and on the door lining (the frame section to which the hinges are attached).
Step 4: Chisel Out the Hinge Recesses
A hinge must sit flush with the timber surface (set into a recess). This way the door closes without a gap on the hinge side.
Technique:
- Transfer the outline of the hinge onto the timber (use the hinge itself as a template)
- Score along the lines with the chisel (a few millimetres deep)
- Chisel out the recess with chisel and hammer — remove the wood layer by layer
- Check that the hinge sits flush in the recess
Do this for both the door lining and the door itself.
Step 5: Screw the Hinges to the Door
Lay the door flat on a protected surface. Place the hinge in the recess. Screw in place. Use the full width of the hinge — make sure it sits completely in the recess.
Tip: pre-drill pilot holes for the screws (slightly smaller than the screw diameter). This prevents the timber from splitting.
Step 6: Hang the Door Temporarily in the Frame
Use wooden wedges to hold the door in the correct position. The door must have:
- 2–3 mm clearance at the top
- 2–3 mm clearance at the sides
- The desired clearance at the bottom (5–10 mm)
Hold the door vertical using the spirit level. Mark the hinge positions on the door lining while the door is held in position.
Step 7: Chisel the Recesses in the Frame
Chisel out the recesses in the door lining for the half of the hinge that is fixed to the frame. Use the same technique as in Step 4.
Step 8: Fix the Hinges to the Frame
Screw the other halves of the hinges into the recesses of the door lining. Hold the door in position again and connect the hinge leaves.
Check:
- Does the door open smoothly?
- Are the gaps around the door even?
- Does the door hang straight (spirit level on the face)?
- Does the door close without rubbing?
Step 9: Fit the Door Latch and Handle
Fitting the handle and latch:
- Determine the position of the latch lock (standard height: 95–100 cm from the floor)
- Drill the spindle hole (Ø55 mm, use a hole saw)
- Drill the latch hole in the door edge (Ø16 mm)
- Chisel the faceplate recess (the latch housing flush with the door edge)
- Screw the latch in place
- Fit the door handles on both sides
Strike plate in the frame:
- Close the door and mark where the latch bolt meets the door lining
- Chisel a recess for the strike plate
- Drill the hole for the latch bolt (Ø18 mm, approximately 20 mm deep)
- Screw the strike plate in place
The Door Hangs Unevenly: Adjusting
If the door does not hang straight after fitting:
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Door rubs at top when closing | Move the bottom of the hinge side slightly forward (cardboard shim under hinge) |
| Door rubs at bottom when closing | Move the top of the hinge side slightly forward |
| Gap at top too large | Recess the top hinge slightly deeper |
| Door will not close | Adjust or deepen the strike plate recess |
Common Mistakes
- Not measuring at all three points. Frames are rarely perfectly straight. Always measure at 3 points.
- Hinge recess not deep enough. If hinges protrude, the door cannot close. Always check that the hinge sits flush.
- No pilot holes. Driving screws directly into dry timber leads to splitting.
- Sawing too quickly without masking tape. Timber and MDF break out when sawn — tape prevents this.
- Forgetting hinge clearance. A sloppy hinge (worn or poorly fitted) causes the door to drop over time. Use tight-fitting, good-quality hinges.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many hinges does an interior door need?
For doors up to 200 cm: a minimum of 2 hinges. For doors of 200–230 cm: 3 hinges. For heavy solid timber doors: always 3 hinges.
How do I hang a door without chiselling hinge recesses?
Use surface-mount hinges. These screw directly onto the face of the door and the door lining without any chiselling or routing. The result is less refined but much simpler to fit.
My door frame is out of plumb — what now?
Use wedges or adjustment screws to bring the frame plumb before hanging the door. Fill any gaps with PU foam. A crooked frame produces a crooked door.
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