Here is how you build a freestanding BBQ shelter in broad strokes: set four to six Douglas fir posts of 12×12 cm on concrete footings, lay beams of 5×15 cm on top, add purlins at roughly 40 cm centres and finish it off with a heat-resistant steel corrugated panel. Budget 1000 to 2500 euros if you do it yourself, and keep at least 100 cm of clearance between your BBQ or kamado and the roof. Freestanding (separate from your house) is a deliberate choice. That way you keep heat, smoke and fire risk well away from your wall and gutter.
In this guide you will read exactly how to build a shelter like this safely and solidly: the right sizes, materials, foundations, roof choice and the permit rules. Plus the mistakes you are better off skipping.
What is a freestanding BBQ shelter?
A freestanding BBQ shelter is a standalone roof that sits separate from your house. It rests on its own posts and is not fixed to your wall.
Underneath it you place your barbecue, kamado or complete outdoor kitchen. That lets you keep cooking when it rains, and the roof protects your equipment from wind and weather.
The big advantage of building freestanding is safety. A BBQ gives off a lot of heat and smoke, and you do not want that scorching along your timber wall, plastic window frames or gutter. By building away from the house, you create room for air circulation and keep flames, sparks and soot at a distance from your home.
Why freestanding and not against the house?
Building against the wall seems easier, but with a BBQ it is impractical. Three reasons to go freestanding:
- Heat. The warmth from a kamado or charcoal BBQ radiates strongly upward and sideways. Against a wall that heat has nowhere to go and can damage plaster, paint or plastic.
- Smoke and soot. Smoke settles on your wall and leaves greasy, dark streaks. Freestanding with an open side lets the smoke simply blow away.
- Fire safety. A freestanding shelter is easy to keep well clear of combustible wall sections, the gutter and overhanging roof edges.
Another bonus: you place a freestanding structure exactly where you want it. Further down the garden, for example, so the smoke drifts away from your patio and your neighbours.
Do you need a permit for a BBQ shelter?
Often not, as long as you stay within the rules for permit-free building. The exact rules differ by country, region and municipality. A shelter usually counts as an ancillary or subordinate structure.
The key thing is that with permit-free building you have to meet two sets of rules at once: the technical rules and the planning rules. The most important conditions as typical guideline values at a glance:
| Condition | Guideline (rear garden area) |
|---|---|
| Location | In the rear garden area, behind the front building line |
| Height (ground-based) | Often a maximum of 5 metres technically; planning rules are often stricter |
| Distance to public space | At least 1 metre from publicly accessible land |
| Built-up area | Plot up to 100 m²: max 50% built up. 100 to 300 m²: 50 m² plus 20% of the part above 100 m². Above 300 m²: 90 m² plus 10%, with a maximum of 150 m² |
Note: with a listed building or in a protected townscape or conservation area, these exemptions do not apply. And because municipalities may set their own rules in their local plans, local differences can be significant.
If you build a small, low BBQ shelter of a few square metres in your back garden, you usually stay comfortably within the rules. Not sure? Always check your specific situation with your municipality or local planning authority. It is quick to do and saves you from a costly, forced demolition later on.
Source: Informatiepunt Leefomgeving (IPLO).
Fire safety: which clearances do you need to keep?
This is the most important part of your plan. A BBQ under a roof needs space and ventilation. Stick to these rules of thumb:
- Above the BBQ: at least 100 cm of clearance between the top of your BBQ or kamado and the roof. Kamados radiate heat intensely upward, so cutting it fine is not an option.
- Sides and back: at least 30 cm of clearance to the sides and back of the grill.
- Front: roughly 60 cm of working space, so you can safely open the lid and turn food.
- Combustible materials: at least 1 metre to timber beams, fabrics, garden furniture and other things that catch fire quickly.
Always make sure there is ventilation too. A barbecue gives off carbon monoxide, a colourless and odourless gas that is dangerous in an enclosed space. So choose a (semi-)open shelter and never put a closed, combustible ceiling directly above the fire.
Still want a more enclosed setup with walls? Then an extractor hood or smoke vent above the BBQ is no needless luxury. Position the BBQ so the smoke drifts away from your house, your hedge, the fence and the neighbours.
Which material do you choose for the frame?
The choice of frame determines the look, the lifespan and how well the structure copes with heat. The three most commonly used options:
Timber (Douglas fir or larch). The most popular choice for a garden shelter. Douglas fir and larch are naturally durable, strong and attractive in colour. They cope well with outdoor weather. Douglas fir lasts for years untreated, though it greys over time. Pressure-treated spruce is the cheaper option, but less good-looking. With timber, always keep to the fire-safe clearances, because wood stays combustible.
Steel. Strong, sharp and slim in profile. Steel handles heat excellently, and you can span larger distances with it than with timber. Downside: it needs a good coating against rust, and the look is industrial rather than warm.
Aluminium. Low-maintenance and light. An aluminium shelter easily lasts 30 years and is fully recyclable. Aluminium only needs cleaning. It does not melt at normal BBQ heat, but the modern, sharp look does not suit every garden.
For a classic, warm feel, Douglas fir is the favourite. If you want minimal maintenance and a sharp overall look, aluminium or steel are appealing.
Which roof covering works over a BBQ and which does not?
Above an open fire this is a crucial choice. Not every roof material is heat-resistant, and the wrong choice can melt or warp.
| Roof material | Suitable over a BBQ? | Watch out |
|---|---|---|
| Steel corrugated panel / standing seam roof | Yes, recommended | Heat-resistant and non-combustible, ideal straight above the fire |
| Roof tiles | Yes | Non-combustible; needs battens and a stronger frame |
| Polycarbonate | Only outside the fire zone | Can warp or melt under direct heat; not straight above the BBQ |
| Bitumen / EPDM | Not straight above the fire | Combustible and heat-sensitive; only at a distance from the smoke plume |
The safest combination: a steel corrugated panel or roof tiles directly above the BBQ, optionally combined with a translucent panel further along the roof where there is no fire underneath. That keeps it light and safe at the same time.
How do you lay the foundation?
A solid, level foundation stops your shelter from sinking or leaning. Concrete footings are the most commonly used method for a freestanding shelter.
Here is how you tackle each footing:
- Dig a hole of roughly 50 x 50 cm and 50 cm deep.
- Tamp the base down well and add a few centimetres of sand for a flat surface.
- Place a concrete slab of 30 x 30 x 4.5 cm at the bottom to spread the load.
- Set the concrete footing with its adjustable post anchor on top.
- Fill the hole with rapid-set concrete, budget around 2 bags per footing.
The footings keep the timber off the ground, so no moisture wicks into the wood and the posts do not rot. Check each footing with a spirit level before the concrete sets, and bring the tops of all footings to the same height with a water level or laser.
Source: Gadero.
Step by step: building the BBQ shelter
With the foundation level, you can start on the frame. This is the build-up for a timber shelter with a flat roof.
1. Set the posts. Set the posts (12×12 cm for a width up to 4 metres, or 15×15 cm for a more robust look) into the adjustable post anchors on the footings. Set them exactly vertical with a spirit level and brace them temporarily with struts.
2. Beams and ring beam. Fix the beams of 5×15 cm (or 7×20 cm for larger spans) around the top of the posts. Keep the span under 3 metres, otherwise you need an extra post. Drill through and bolt the joints with galvanised flange head screws.
3. Set the fall. Even a “flat” roof needs a fall so rainwater runs off. Reckon on 1 cm per metre. On a shelter 3 metres deep, you set the front posts 3 cm lower than the back ones.
4. Lay the purlins. Lay the purlins (roof beams) on top of the beams, at roughly 40 cm centres. Fix them with angle brackets or screw them through. Leave 30 to 40 cm of overhang at the front for extra shelter.
5. Roof decking. Screw the roof decking onto the purlins. For a flat base, use boards 18 mm thick, for example with a tongue-and-groove joint.
6. Roof covering. Fit your heat-resistant roof covering: steel corrugated panels straight above the BBQ, or roof tiles on battens. Finish the edges neatly with roof trim.
7. Finishing. Treat the timber with a stain or oil if you like, place your BBQ and worktop, and check all the safe clearances one last time.
Source: Gadero, Vandentop Tuinhout.
Which sizes do you need?
The dimensions determine how comfortably you work under the shelter. These guide sizes work well in practice:
- Clear height: at least 220 to 240 cm, so you stand upright comfortably. Do factor in the 100 cm of clearance above your BBQ: a tall kamado with the lid open needs extra height.
- Workable width: reckon on at least 200 cm around the BBQ if you also want to fit in a worktop and counter. For just a BBQ, 150 cm is already workable.
- Depth: 200 to 300 cm gives room to work and to stay dry when it rains.
- Smoke extraction: keep at least one side open and do not put the BBQ in a closed corner. That way the smoke can drift away freely.
Build it a touch more generous rather than too tight. Under a shelter that is too low or too small, guests stand in the smoke and your lid catches the roof.
What does a freestanding BBQ shelter cost?
The cost depends heavily on size, material and whether you build it yourself. An indication in ranges:
| Approach | Indication |
|---|---|
| Small ready-made kit (self-assembly) | 500 to 1500 euros |
| Custom Douglas fir shelter, self-build | 1000 to 2500 euros |
| Fully designed and built for you | 2500 to 5000 euros and up |
Building it yourself mainly saves on labour costs. The biggest cost items are the timber, the roof covering and the concrete. A heat-resistant steel roof and heavier Douglas fir beams cost more, but last longer and are safer above a fire. Calculate the materials generously, so you do not run out of screws or concrete halfway through.
Common mistakes
Avoid these slip-ups that cost you money or safety later:
- Too little space above the BBQ. Less than 100 cm and your roof takes on too much heat. Kamados radiate strongly upward.
- Combustible roof straight above the fire. Polycarbonate or bitumen above the BBQ can warp, melt or worse. Choose steel or roof tiles above the fire zone.
- Building fully enclosed. Without ventilation, carbon monoxide builds up and smoke settles. Keep at least one side open.
- Foundation not level. A skewed footing means a skewed shelter. Measure twice, pour once.
- Planning too tight. No working space next to the BBQ makes cooking awkward and unsafe. Think about the worktop and walking room in advance.
- Skipping the permit. Do not blindly assume it is permit-free. A quick check with the planning authority saves you hassle.
Frequently asked questions
Can you barbecue under a shelter?
Yes, as long as you do it safely. Keep at least 100 cm of clearance above the BBQ, choose a heat-resistant roof above the fire zone and make sure there is enough ventilation. Ideally choose a (semi-)open structure so smoke and carbon monoxide can drift away freely.
Can a kamado go under a shelter?
It can, but a kamado gives off intense heat. Keep at least 100 cm of space between the top of the kamado and the roof, and at least 30 cm to the sides and back. An open or semi-open shelter is preferable to a closed one.
Which roof is safest above a BBQ?
A steel corrugated panel or standing seam roof straight above the fire is safest: heat-resistant and non-combustible. Roof tiles work too. Polycarbonate and bitumen do not belong directly above the fire, because they can warp or melt.
Do I need a permit?
Usually not, if you stay within the rules for permit-free building in the rear garden area (among other things maximum height, at least 1 metre distance to public space and the permitted built-up area). Because municipalities may set their own rules, always check your situation with your local planning authority.
Which timber is best for a BBQ shelter?
Douglas fir and larch are the favourites: strong, naturally durable and attractive in colour. Pressure-treated spruce is a cheaper alternative. Whichever timber you choose, wood stays combustible, so always keep to the safe clearances from the fire.
How deep does the foundation need to be?
For concrete footings you dig a hole of roughly 50 x 50 cm and 50 cm deep. A concrete slab goes at the bottom, the footing on top, and you fill the hole with rapid-set concrete (around 2 bags per footing). Check each footing is level before the concrete sets.
Want to get started right away with a complete and well-thought-out plan? At Fred’s DIY Plans you will find fully worked-out building plans for shelters and other garden projects, with the right sizes and material lists, so you can get to work yourself with confidence and safety.