Building a table costs on average €80 to €600 in materials, depending on the type of table and wood species. For comparison: buying a similar table at a furniture shop easily costs €300 to €2,000. Building it yourself saves you 40 to 60 percent and you get exactly the table that fits your home. In this guide you’ll learn which wood species to choose, which legs work best, what tools you need and how to build a sturdy table step by step.
What Does It Cost to Build a Table? DIY vs Buying
Cost Comparison
| DIY (materials) | IKEA / budget furniture shop | Furniture shop / custom maker | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Side table (40×40 cm) | €30 – €80 | €30 – €100 | €80 – €250 |
| Coffee table (120×60 cm) | €60 – €200 | €80 – €300 | €200 – €800 |
| Console table (100×30 cm) | €40 – €120 | €50 – €200 | €150 – €500 |
| Dining table (180×90 cm) | €150 – €600 | €200 – €700 | €500 – €2,000 |
| Dining table (220×100 cm) | €250 – €800 | €350 – €1,000 | €800 – €3,000 |
Material costs depend heavily on the wood species. A dining table in spruce costs half the price of one in oak. Steel table legs (€50-€200 per set) are a popular choice that significantly simplifies the build process.
When Is DIY Worth It?
Building your own table pays off especially with larger tables. With a dining table you easily save €200 to €1,000 compared to a furniture shop. With a simple side table the difference is smaller – there you do it mainly because you want exactly the style and dimensions that suit your interior.
DIY is worth it if you:
- Need a specific size – a table of 195×85 cm is impossible to find ready-made
- Want a particular wood species or finish – reclaimed oak, epoxy, specific stain
- Want to save on a large dining table – this is where the savings are greatest
- Enjoy it as a project – a handmade dining table is a showpiece you’ll enjoy for years
Buying is smarter if you:
- Don’t have tools and don’t want to invest in them
- Don’t have a workspace for a project of this size
- Want a small table that costs €50 at IKEA
What Type of Table Do You Want to Build?
Table Types Compared
| Type | Dimensions (LxW) | Top thickness | Budget (materials) | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Side table | 40×40 – 50×50 cm | 18-25 mm | €30 – €80 | Easy |
| Coffee table | 100×50 – 130×70 cm | 20-30 mm | €60 – €200 | Easy-medium |
| Console table | 80×25 – 120×35 cm | 18-25 mm | €40 – €120 | Easy |
| Dining table (4 persons) | 120×80 – 160×90 cm | 25-40 mm | €120 – €400 | Medium |
| Dining table (6-8 persons) | 180×90 – 240×100 cm | 30-50 mm | €200 – €800 | Medium-hard |
Best first project: a coffee table or console table. Manageable dimensions, not too expensive if you make a mistake and the result is immediately visible in your living room.
Most commonly built table: the 180×90 cm dining table. The rest of this article focuses on this size, but the steps apply to any type of table.
Wood Species for Your Table: Which Do You Choose?
The wood species determines the look, durability and price of your table. Here are the most commonly used options.
Wood Species Compared
| Wood species | Hardness | Appearance | Price per m² (30 mm) | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spruce (softwood) | Soft | Light, rustic | €20 – €40 | Budget dining table, children’s table |
| Pine (softwood) | Soft | Warm, yellowish | €25 – €45 | Budget dining table, outdoor table (treated) |
| Beech | Hard | Light, even grain | €40 – €70 | Dining table, workbench |
| Ash | Hard | Light, striking grain | €50 – €80 | Dining table, coffee table (modern) |
| Oak | Very hard | Warm, robust | €60 – €120 | Dining table, coffee table (premium) |
| Walnut | Hard | Dark, luxurious | €100 – €200 | Dining table (premium), coffee table |
| Scaffold board | Variable | Weathered, industrial | €10 – €25 | Budget table, industrial look |
Which Wood Species for Which Purpose?
Best value for money: oak. Yes, it’s more expensive than spruce, but oak is extremely hard, doesn’t dent easily, is resistant to stains and gets more beautiful with age. An oak dining table lasts generations. The extra cost pays for itself in lifespan.
Best budget: spruce or pine. Cheap and easy to work with. Downside: soft wood dents more easily. Not an issue for a children’s table or workshop table, but a consideration for a dining table you’ll sit at for years.
Best looks: walnut or ash. Walnut has a rich, dark colour that needs no staining. Ash has a striking grain pattern that looks modern. Both are sturdy enough for a dining table.
Solid Wood vs Sheet Material
| Solid wood | Plywood | MDF | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Strength | Very strong | Strong | Medium |
| Appearance | Natural, unique | Layers visible on edge | Smooth, must be painted |
| Price | High | Medium | Low |
| Working | Planing, gluing needed | Easy to cut to size | Easy, but fragile at edges |
| Suitable for | Dining table, coffee table | Work table, children’s table | Painted furniture |
Tip: buy your wood from a timber merchant, not a DIY store. The quality is better (drier, straighter, fewer knots) and the price per running metre is often lower for larger pieces. DIY stores are fine for construction timber, but for a tabletop you want better material.
Table Legs: What Are Your Options?
The legs define the style of your table at least as much as the top. You have three main categories.
Table Legs Compared
| Leg type | Style | Price (set of 4/2) | Mounting difficulty | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wooden legs (solid) | Classic, rustic | €20 – €80 (DIY) | Medium-hard | Dining table, side table |
| Steel legs (A-frame, U-frame, X-frame) | Industrial, modern | €60 – €200 (buy) | Easy | Dining table, coffee table |
| Hairpin legs | Retro, minimalist | €25 – €70 (buy) | Very easy | Coffee table, side table, console |
| Threaded table legs | Modern | €40 – €100 (buy) | Easy | All types |
| Trestles | Scandinavian, simple | €15 – €60 (buy or make) | Easy | Work table, desk |
Steel Table Legs: The Easiest Option
Steel legs come ready-made from online shops. They’re supplied with a mounting plate and screws – you simply screw them to the underside of the tabletop.
Advantages:
– No woodworking skills needed for the base
– Extremely strong (steel doesn’t bend)
– Many styles: A-leg, U-leg, X-leg, angled leg, spider leg
– Powder coating in any colour
Most popular choice: a set of A-frame steel legs (2 pieces) in matt black. Suits virtually any interior and costs €80 to €150 per set.
Making Your Own Wooden Legs
If you make the legs yourself from wood, you need more construction knowledge. The most common constructions:
- Straight legs with apron frame – 4 legs connected by a frame of aprons. Classic and sturdy. Requires mortise-and-tenon joints or solid screw connections.
- Angled legs – gives a lighter, more modern look. Harder to get square. Use an angle jig.
- T-legs (2 pieces) – each leg is a T-shape of two boards. Simpler than 4 separate legs and gives a robust look.
Tools You’ll Need
Essential:
– Cordless drill with bit set
– Handheld circular saw or table saw (for cutting the top to size)
– Sander (random orbit or finishing)
– Bar clamps (minimum 4, preferably 6-8)
– Combination square
– Tape measure
– Spirit level
– Pencil
Handy but not essential:
– Router (for rounded edges and grooves)
– Mitre saw (for precise cuts in legs and aprons)
– Hand plane (for flattening solid wood tops)
– Dowel jig or Kreg Jig (for invisible joints)
– Joinery jig for wood joints
Tip: don’t have a circular saw? Have the wood cut to size at the timber merchant or DIY store. Most DIY stores cut for free or for a couple of euros per cut. Then at home you only need a drill and a sander.
Step-by-Step Guide: Build a Dining Table in 9 Steps
This guide describes building a 180×90 cm dining table with a solid wood top and steel legs. Using wooden legs? See the additional notes at step 3.
Step 1: Create a Design and Determine the Dimensions
Decide before buying materials:
- Length and width – allow a minimum of 60 cm width per person at the table. A 180 cm table seats 6 people (3 per side), 220 cm seats 8.
- Height – standard dining table height is 75-76 cm (top surface). This matches standard dining chairs with a seat height of 45-47 cm.
- Top thickness – minimum 25 mm for a table up to 120 cm, minimum 30 mm for up to 180 cm, and minimum 40 mm for over 200 cm. Thinner tops will sag.
Make a sketch with all dimensions. Note the leg positions (how many centimetres from the edge). With steel A-frame legs the leg is usually 15-20 cm from the short side.
Step 2: Buy the Wood and Check It
At a timber merchant:
– Order planks from the same batch (same colour and grain pattern)
– Choose planks that are straight – hold them at eye level and look along the length
– Check the moisture content: maximum 10-12% for indoor furniture. Wetter wood will move (shrink and bow)
– Let the planks acclimatise for at least a week in the room where the table will stand
At a DIY store:
– Glued panels (furniture boards) in pine or oak are the easiest option. No need to glue planks together yourself.
– Check for cracks, knots and warping
Step 3: Make the Tabletop
Option A – Pre-glued furniture panel (easy):
1. Cut the panel to the desired length and width
2. Use a circular saw with a guide rail for a straight, clean cut
3. Move on to step 4
Option B – Gluing loose planks together (better result, more work):
1. Lay the planks side by side and decide the order – alternate the grain direction (end grain: arch up, arch down) to minimise warping
2. Plane the edges of the planks flat and square – the plank edges must fit together perfectly
3. Apply wood glue (D3 or D4) to all edges
4. Clamp the planks together with at least 4-6 bar clamps. Make sure the top stays flat – lay it on a flat surface and check with a spirit level
5. Let the glue cure for at least 24 hours
6. Plane or sand the top surface flat after the glue is dry
7. Cut the top to its final length and width
Extra for wooden legs: build the base first. Make a rectangular frame of aprons (45×70 mm or 45×95 mm) with mortise-and-tenon joints or with wood screws and angle brackets. Attach the 4 legs to the corners of the frame. Use at least 2 screws or dowels per joint, plus wood glue.
Step 4: Rout or Sand the Edges
The edges of the tabletop define the look.
| Edge finish | Appearance | How |
|---|---|---|
| Rounded (radius 3-5 mm) | Classic, safe | Router with roundover bit |
| Chamfered (45 degrees) | Modern, clean | Router with chamfer bit or by hand with sandpaper |
| Live edge (natural bark edge) | Rustic, unique | Leave the natural plank edge intact, sand and oil |
| Straight (sharp) | Minimalist | Only lightly break with 120 grit sandpaper |
At minimum: always lightly break the sharp edges with sandpaper (120 grit). Sharp edges chip and feel unpleasant.
Step 5: Sand the Tabletop
Good sanding is the difference between an amateur and a professional table. Take your time here.
- Start with 80 grit – only if the top has imperfections (glue residue, height differences). Otherwise start at 120 grit.
- 120 grit – sand the entire top in the direction of the grain. Never across the grain – that creates visible scratches.
- 180 grit – make the top smooth. After 180 grit the top feels silky smooth.
- 220-240 grit – only needed if you’re going to varnish. For oil, 180 grit is sufficient.
- Make the top dust-free after sanding. Use a damp cloth and let it dry.
Sand the underside too – at least with 120 grit. An untreated underside absorbs moisture differently than the top, which can cause the top to warp.
Step 6: Mount the Legs
With steel legs:
1. Turn the tabletop upside down on a soft surface (blanket or cardboard)
2. Position the legs in the desired spot – usually 15-20 cm from the short edge
3. Mark the screw holes with a pencil
4. Pre-drill with a thin bit (3 mm) – this prevents the wood from splitting
5. Screw the legs in place with the supplied screws. Use screws that go at least 2/3 into the top thickness, but don’t come through the top.
6. Turn the table over and check it’s stable
With wooden legs (frame):
1. Turn the top upside down
2. Place the base (frame + legs) on the top, centred
3. Attach the frame to the top with table connectors (Z-clips or wooden blocks with a slot). These are metal or wooden clips that hold the top in place but leave room for movement (shrinking and expanding).
4. Do NOT use glue between top and frame – solid wood must be able to move
Important: with solid wood tops you must always give the top room to move. Never screw the top rigidly to a stiff frame. Use table connectors, slots or elongated screw holes.
Step 7: Apply the Finish
The finish protects the wood and determines the final look. Choose the method that suits your use.
Finishing Methods Compared
| Method | Protection | Appearance | Maintenance | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hard wax oil | Good | Natural, matt | Touch up annually | Dining table (best choice) |
| Danish oil | Good | Natural, slightly glossy | Every six months | Dining table, coffee table |
| Linseed oil | Medium | Natural, slight yellowing | Annually | Work table, children’s table |
| Clear varnish (matt/satin) | Very good | Smooth coating, slight sheen | Little, but hard to repair | Dining table with heavy use |
| Stain + varnish | Very good | Colours the wood | Little | When you want a different colour |
| Wax | Moderate | Silky, matt | Monthly | Console table, side table |
Best choice for a dining table: hard wax oil (Osmo, Rubio Monocoat or similar). Protects against stains and moisture, shows the grain, feels natural and is easy to repair locally. A coffee cup ring? Sand it away and re-oil – try doing that with varnish.
Applying hard wax oil:
1. Apply a thin coat with a brush or cloth, in the direction of the grain
2. Let it soak in for 15-20 minutes
3. Wipe off excess with a clean, lint-free cloth
4. Let dry for 12-24 hours
5. Sand lightly between coats with 320 grit (or a sanding pad)
6. Apply a second coat
7. Optional: apply a third coat for extra protection
Step 8: Protect the Underside
Don’t forget the underside. Apply at least one coat of oil to the underside of the top. This ensures the top and underside absorb and release moisture evenly, which reduces the chance of warping.
Stick felt pads under the legs (or under the steel foot plates) to protect your floor.
Step 9: Level the Table
Place the table in its final spot and check with a spirit level that it’s level. Does it wobble? Three options:
- Felt pads or furniture glides of different thicknesses under the legs
- Adjustable feet – install threaded inserts in the legs and screw in adjustable feet
- Plane or sand the longest leg down slightly (measure carefully)
Common Mistakes When Building a Table
1. Top too thin
An 18 mm plywood top on a 180 cm dining table will sag, guaranteed. Use at least 30 mm for a dining table up to 180 cm and at least 40 mm over 200 cm. With thin sheet material you can glue aprons to the underside for extra stiffness.
2. Using wet wood
Wood from the DIY store is sometimes too wet (over 14%). This wood will shrink, crack and warp once it’s in your heated living room. Measure the moisture content with a moisture meter (€15-€30 at the DIY store) and let overly wet wood acclimatise.
3. Screwing the top rigidly to the frame
Solid wood moves – it shrinks and expands with the seasons. If you screw the top tightly to a rigid frame, the top will crack or the frame will bow. Use table connectors or slotted holes that give the wood room to move.
4. Sanding across the grain
Always sand in the direction of the grain. Scratches across the grain are clearly visible after oiling or varnishing and can’t be corrected without sanding everything again.
5. Too few sanding steps
Jumping straight from 80 grit to 220 grit gives a worse result than properly working through 80 – 120 – 180. Each grit removes the scratches from the previous one. Skip a grit and scratches remain visible.
6. Not treating the underside
A top that’s only oiled or varnished on the top surface absorbs moisture unevenly. The result: a tabletop that’s warped after a few months. Always treat both sides.
7. Not pre-drilling
Screwing directly into hardwood without pre-drilling causes splitting. Always pre-drill with a bit slightly thinner than the screw core. With soft softwood pre-drilling is less critical, but always better.
8. Wrong table height
Standard dining table height is 75-76 cm. Check this before ordering or cutting the legs. Factor in the top thickness: with a 4 cm top and a desired table height of 76 cm, the legs need to be 72 cm.
Frequently Asked Questions About Building a Table
How high should a dining table be?
The standard height for a dining table is 75-76 cm (top surface). This matches dining chairs with a seat height of 45-47 cm. A bar table is 90-110 cm high, a coffee table 40-50 cm.
What’s the best wood for a dining table?
Oak is the best all-rounder: hard, durable, stain-resistant and gets more beautiful with age. For a budget option, spruce or pine is suitable, but softer and more prone to dents. Walnut and ash are premium choices with a unique look.
How much does it cost to build a dining table yourself?
A 180×90 cm dining table costs €150 to €600 in materials, depending on the wood species and type of legs. A comparable table at a furniture shop costs €500 to €2,000.
Can I build a table without much tools?
Yes. Buy a pre-glued furniture panel (cut to size at the timber merchant) and a set of steel table legs. Then you only need a cordless drill, sander, sandpaper and oil. Total build time: one afternoon.
How do I prevent my tabletop from warping?
Three measures: (1) use dry wood (max 10-12% moisture), (2) treat top and underside with the same finish, (3) give the top room to move when attaching it to the base (table connectors, no rigid screws).
Which table legs are the easiest?
Steel table legs (A-frame, U-frame or hairpin legs) are by far the easiest. You screw them to the underside of the top – done. No wood joints, no construction knowledge needed. Hairpin legs are the cheapest (€25-€70 per set of 4), A-frame steel legs the most popular choice for dining tables (€80-€150 per set of 2).
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