Building a fence yourself costs on average EUR 40 to EUR 110 per linear metre for materials, compared to EUR 80 to EUR 200 per metre if you hire a contractor. For a typical garden with 20 metres of fencing, that’s EUR 800 to EUR 2,200 in materials alone. In this guide, you’ll learn exactly how to build a fence, which wood to choose, and how to avoid disputes with your neighbours.
What Does It Cost to Build a Fence? DIY vs Hiring a Contractor
Costs per Linear Metre
| DIY (materials only) | Contractor (materials + labour) | |
|---|---|---|
| Fence panels on concrete posts (budget) | EUR 35 – 65/m | EUR 70 – 120/m |
| Hardwood fence panels on concrete posts | EUR 55 – 95/m | EUR 100 – 170/m |
| Fence from individual planks | EUR 45 – 80/m | EUR 90 – 160/m |
| Douglas fir or larch fence | EUR 60 – 110/m | EUR 110 – 200/m |
| Composite fence | EUR 80 – 150/m | EUR 140 – 250/m |
| Concrete fence (panels + posts) | EUR 50 – 90/m | EUR 90 – 160/m |
Total Costs for a Typical Garden
| Fence length | DIY | Contractor |
|---|---|---|
| 10 metres | EUR 400 – 1,100 | EUR 800 – 2,000 |
| 20 metres | EUR 800 – 2,200 | EUR 1,600 – 4,000 |
| 30 metres | EUR 1,200 – 3,300 | EUR 2,400 – 6,000 |
| 40 metres (large garden) | EUR 1,600 – 4,400 | EUR 3,200 – 8,000 |
When Is DIY Worth It?
Almost always. Building a fence is one of the most rewarding DIY projects: it’s physical work, but technically straightforward. A landscaper or contractor typically charges EUR 40 to EUR 80 per hour, and an average 20-metre fence takes one to two days of labour. Doing it yourself saves you EUR 500 to EUR 2,000.
Which Type of Fence Should You Choose?
Fence Types Compared
| Type | Privacy | Lifespan | Maintenance | Price per metre | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fence panels (pressure-treated) | Full | 10-15 years | Stain every 3-5 years | EUR 35 – 60 | Budget option, most popular |
| Hardwood panels | Full | 20-30 years | Oil every 5-7 years | EUR 55 – 95 | Durability, attractive look |
| Douglas fir planks | Full | 15-25 years | Every 5-7 years (weathers naturally) | EUR 60 – 100 | Warm appearance, popular choice |
| Composite panels | Full | 25-35 years | Virtually none | EUR 80 – 150 | Maintenance-free, modern look |
| Concrete fence | Full | 30-50 years | None | EUR 50 – 90 | Robust, windproof |
| Chestnut paling | Partial | 15-25 years | None | EUR 15 – 35 | Rustic, open feel |
| Wire mesh + climbing plants | Variable | 20+ years (mesh) | Pruning | EUR 10 – 25 (+ plants) | Natural, green boundary |
Which Type Suits You?
Best value for money: pressure-treated fence panels on concrete posts. This is the cheapest serious option, easy to install, and with proper maintenance it lasts 15 years. It’s the most common choice for garden fences across Europe.
Best appearance: Douglas fir or hardwood planks. Warmer and more attractive than standard fence panels, and they weather beautifully. Slightly more expensive, but the difference in appearance is significant.
Least maintenance: composite or concrete. Composite looks sleek and never needs staining. Concrete fences are virtually indestructible but have an industrial look.
Fences and Your Neighbours: Rules and Agreements
This is the most underestimated topic when it comes to fences. More garden disputes are about fences than any other subject.
What Does the Law Say?
| Rule | What it means |
|---|---|
| Shared boundary fence | A fence placed on the property boundary is typically shared property. Both neighbours must agree and share the costs. |
| Your own fence | If you place the fence entirely on your land (5-10 cm from the boundary), it’s your property and you pay for everything yourself. |
| Maximum height | In most areas, the maximum height for a boundary fence is 2 metres. Check your local regulations. |
| Right to a boundary fence | In many European countries, you can require your neighbour to contribute to the cost of a shared boundary fence up to a certain height. Local laws vary. |
Practical Advice
- Talk to your neighbours first. Always. Even if you have the legal right to build a fence. A good conversation beforehand prevents months of conflict later.
- Put agreements in writing. Who pays what, which type of fence, what height, on whose land. A simple email is enough.
- Share costs for a shared boundary fence. In many jurisdictions this is legally required if one neighbour requests it.
- Build on your own land if you want to avoid trouble. Set the fence 5-10 cm inside your property line. You lose a few centimetres of garden, but you avoid any dispute about ownership.
Building Permits
In most cases, you don’t need a building permit for a fence:
- Maximum 2 metres tall in the rear garden
- Maximum 1 metre tall in the front garden
- Not in a protected conservation area (stricter rules may apply)
Note: Some homeowner association rules and local zoning plans include additional requirements about materials and colour. Check before you start.
Materials List: 20 Metres of Fence on Concrete Posts
This is what you need for 20 metres of fence, 180 cm tall, using fence panels on concrete posts.
Materials
| Material | Quantity | Approximate cost |
|---|---|---|
| Concrete posts (10×10 cm, 240 cm tall) | 12 pieces | EUR 180 – 300 |
| Fence panels (180×180 cm, pressure-treated) | 11 pieces | EUR 330 – 660 |
| Concrete gravel boards (184x26x3.5 cm) | 11 pieces | EUR 55 – 110 |
| Gravel | 4 bags of 25 kg | EUR 15 – 25 |
| Dry-mix concrete or quick-set concrete | 24 bags of 25 kg | EUR 100 – 150 |
| Marker stakes and string | Set | EUR 10 – 15 |
Total material costs: EUR 690 – 1,260
Tools
- Spade and pickaxe (for digging holes)
- Post hole auger (makes digging much easier — available for hire at most hardware stores for EUR 25-40/day)
- Spirit level (at least 1 metre)
- Tape measure (at least 5 metres)
- Mallet or rubber hammer
- Wheelbarrow
- Clamps
Step-by-Step Plan: Build a Fence in 7 Steps
Step 1 — Plan the Fence and Talk to Your Neighbours
- Measure the total length where the fence will go
- Determine the post positions: with standard 180 cm wide panels, you need a post every 184 cm (panel width + 2x groove depth)
- Discuss your plans, costs and the type of fence with your neighbours
- Check whether there are cables or pipes underground — contact your local utility marking service. This is not optional; it’s mandatory in most countries.
Common mistake: not checking for underground utilities. Hitting a water or gas line with your post hole auger is dangerous and leads to thousands of euros in damage. Always check, even if you think there’s nothing there.
Step 2 — Mark Out the Line
- Drive a marker stake at the start and end point of the fence
- Stretch a string tightly between the stakes — this is your straight line
- Mark on the ground where each post goes (every 184 cm)
- Check squareness at corners using the 3-4-5 method
Work tip: if the string sags on long runs, drive an extra stake halfway.
Step 3 — Dig the Post Holes
- Dig a hole at each marking, 40×40 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep
- Use a post hole auger (available for hire) if you have many holes to dig — this saves hours of work and your back
- The bottom of the hole should be slightly wider than the top (tulip shape) for extra stability
Depth: at least 60 cm. The post needs to be in the ground for one-third of its length. For 240 cm posts, that means 60-80 cm. Too shallow = the fence blows over in the first storm.
Step 4 — Place the Corner Posts and End Posts
Always start with the corner posts and end posts — these define the straight line.
- Pour 10 cm of gravel into the hole (for drainage)
- Set the concrete post in the hole with the grooves (slots) facing the side where the panel will go
- Check with a spirit level that the post is perfectly plumb — in two directions
- Brace the post temporarily with diagonal supports (planks fixed against the post and into the ground)
- Pour dry-mix concrete around the post and add water (or use quick-set concrete — 2 bags per post)
- Check once more that the post is plumb
- Let the concrete cure for at least 24 hours
Common mistake: not getting the posts perfectly plumb. A post that’s 1 cm off at the base means 3 cm off at the top. Take your time here.
Step 5 — Place the Intermediate Posts
- Stretch a string between the corner/end posts, along the top
- Place each intermediate post at the marked position
- Check that the top of each post lines up with the string
- Check plumb with the spirit level
- Pour concrete and let it cure — same process as for the corner posts
Step 6 — Slide in the Gravel Boards and Fence Panels
This is the rewarding part — now you see results.
- Slide the concrete gravel boards into the grooves of two adjacent posts. The gravel board prevents the wood from touching the ground (which would cause rot).
- Slide the fence panel into the grooves from above, on top of the gravel board
- Check that the panel sits properly in the grooves and can’t tip over
Work tip: work in pairs. One person holds the panel, the other guides it into the grooves. Fence panels of 180×180 cm weigh 25-35 kg.
For individual planks (no panels): fix horizontal rails (3 per section) to the posts and screw the planks vertically onto the rails. Use stainless steel screws.
Step 7 — Finishing Touches
- Post caps: fit caps (wood or aluminium) on top of the concrete posts. This prevents rainwater from seeping into the post and gives a neat finish.
- Staining: treat wooden panels with 2 coats of exterior stain for a longer lifespan. Standard pressure-treated panels can be left untreated, but staining roughly doubles the lifespan.
- Climbing plants: want a green fence? Plant ivy, honeysuckle or clematis at the base. Within 2-3 years, the fence will be covered in greenery. Note: climbing plants make wood maintenance harder.
Common Mistakes When Building a Fence
| Mistake | Consequence | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Not checking for underground utilities | Hitting a cable or pipe = dangerous + expensive | Always contact your local utility marking service |
| Posts set too shallow | Fence blows over in a storm | At least 60 cm deep, one-third of the post in the ground |
| No concrete gravel board | Wood touches ground = rot within 3 years | Always use a gravel board or keep the panel 5 cm above ground |
| Not talking to neighbours | Disputes, sometimes legal conflicts | Always discuss beforehand and record agreements |
| Not staining the panels | Lifespan cut in half | 2 coats of stain immediately after installation |
Maintenance: How Long Will Your Fence Last?
| Fence type | Lifespan without maintenance | Lifespan with maintenance |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated fence panels | 8-10 years | 15-20 years |
| Hardwood panels | 15-20 years | 25-30 years |
| Douglas fir planks | 12-15 years | 20-25 years |
| Composite | 25-35 years | 25-35 years (no difference) |
| Concrete fence | 30-50 years | 30-50 years (no difference) |
Maintenance tips:
– Stain wooden panels every 3-5 years (pressure-treated) or every 5-7 years (hardwood/Douglas fir)
– Remove moss and algae annually with a brush and mild soap. No pressure washer — it damages the wood.
– Check annually that the posts are still straight and the panels sit properly in the grooves
– Replace rotten planks immediately — one rotten plank draws moisture to the rest
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a 20-metre fence cost?
DIY with standard pressure-treated fence panels on concrete posts: EUR 700 to EUR 1,300. With hardwood panels: EUR 1,100 to EUR 1,900. Hiring a landscaper: EUR 1,600 to EUR 4,000, depending on the type and accessibility of your garden.
Do I need a building permit for a fence?
Usually not. A fence up to 2 metres tall in the rear garden is typically permit-free. In the front garden, the maximum height is generally 1 metre. In protected conservation areas or with homeowner associations, stricter rules may apply. Always check with your local council.
Does my neighbour have to pay for half the fence?
If the fence is on the property boundary (shared), you can often legally require your neighbour to pay half the cost — up to a fence of 2 metres tall. The specifics vary by country and region. If the fence is entirely on your land, you pay everything yourself but it’s also entirely your property.
How deep should the posts go into the ground?
At least 60 cm, and preferably one-third of the total post length. For 240 cm posts, that’s 60-80 cm. Always use dry-mix concrete or quick-set concrete to secure the posts — packing soil alone is not storm-proof.
Wooden fence or concrete fence: which is better?
Concrete fences are cheaper to maintain and last longer (30-50 years), but look industrial. Wooden fences are warmer and more attractive but require maintenance and last 15-25 years. For most gardens, wood wins on appearance. Choose concrete if maintenance really isn’t your thing.
How long does it take to build a fence?
A 20-metre fence on concrete posts takes two people 1-2 days. Day 1: dig holes, place posts, pour concrete. Day 2: install panels and finishing touches. If you’re using individual planks instead of panels, add an extra day.
Want to get started with a professional building plan? At fredsdiyplans.com you’ll find building plans for fences, garden gates and other outdoor projects — complete with materials lists and instructions.
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