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Building a bin enclosure yourself costs $100 to $350 in materials, depending on the number of bins and the type of wood. A ready-made bin store costs $250 to $800. Building your own saves 40–60% and you build exactly to size for your bins and available space. In this guide, you’ll find the exact dimensions per bin type, a complete materials list and a step-by-step building plan. It’s one of the most rewarding garden projects: finished in a weekend and a visible improvement every day.
DIY vs. Ready-Made
| Type of Enclosure | DIY | Ready-Made | Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single bin (1 container) | $100 – $170 | $180 – $350 | $80 – $180 |
| Double bin (2 containers) | $145 – $240 | $300 – $550 | $155 – $310 |
| Triple bin (3 containers) | $220 – $350 | $400 – $800 | $180 – $450 |
When to buy? If you don’t have tools and don’t want to invest in any. A ready-made enclosure is set up in 30 minutes. Have a cordless drill and a saw? Then building your own is almost always smarter — cheaper, custom-sized and sturdier.
Dimensions Per Bin Type
The size of your bin enclosure depends on the type of wheelie bin your council provides. Measure your own bin — there are small differences between manufacturers.
Standard Wheelie Bin Dimensions
| Bin | Height (cm) | Width (cm) | Depth (cm) | Height with Lid Open (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 120 litre (32 gal) | 96 | 48 | 55 | 140 |
| 140 litre (37 gal) | 106 | 48 | 55 | 150 |
| 240 litre (64 gal) | 106 | 58 | 73 | 155 |
| 360 litre (95 gal) | 110 | 60 | 87 | 165 |
Recommended Internal Dimensions
| Bin | Internal Width | Internal Depth | Internal Height | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 120 litre (32 gal) | 55 cm | 62 cm | 100 cm | +7 cm clearance all round |
| 140 litre (37 gal) | 55 cm | 62 cm | 110 cm | +7 cm clearance all round |
| 240 litre (64 gal) | 65 cm | 80 cm | 110 cm | +7 cm clearance all round |
| 360 litre (95 gal) | 67 cm | 94 cm | 115 cm | +7 cm clearance all round |
Why clearance? You need to easily roll the bin in and out. 7 cm all around is the minimum. Less and you’ll scrape against the wood every week, more and the enclosure becomes unnecessarily large.
Calculating External Dimensions
External dimension = internal dimension + 2x wall thickness (for boards of 2 cm: +4 cm) + 2x post thickness (for posts of 7×7 cm: +14 cm). So for a 240-litre bin:
– Width: 65 + 4 + 14 = 83 cm (per bin)
– Depth: 80 + 2 + 7 = 89 cm
– Height: 110 + lid clearance = 115–120 cm
For a double enclosure, you share the middle wall: total width = 2x 65 + 3x wall thickness + 2x post = approximately 160 cm.
Materials List: Double Bin Enclosure (2x 240 litre)
Materials
| Material | Quantity | Approx. Price |
|---|---|---|
| Posts (cedar or treated pine, 7×7 cm, 120 cm) | 4 corner posts + 1 middle post = 5 pieces | $35 – $60 |
| Cladding boards (cedar or treated pine, 14×2 cm) | 30–35 pieces, 90 cm long | $65 – $120 |
| Top frame (4.5×7 cm) | 4 pieces, various lengths | $18 – $30 |
| Bottom frame (4.5×7 cm) | 4 pieces, various lengths | $18 – $30 |
| Lid boards (14×2 cm) | 12–14 pieces | $25 – $40 |
| Hinges (T-hinges, stainless steel, heavy-duty) | 4 pieces | $18 – $35 |
| Gas struts or lid stays | 2 pieces (optional) | $18 – $30 |
| Stainless steel wood screws (4×40 mm) | 200 pieces | $15 – $22 |
| Stainless steel wood screws (5×60 mm) | 40 pieces | $10 – $15 |
| Post anchors (adjustable, ground spike) | 5 pieces | $25 – $40 |
| Handles (for door/lid) | 2–3 pieces | $10 – $18 |
Total materials: $257 – $440
Tools
- Cordless drill with screw bit
- Wood drill bits (3 mm and 5 mm)
- Circular saw or mitre saw
- Tape measure (5 m)
- Spirit level
- Carpenter’s square
- Pencil
- Sandpaper (120 grit)
Step-by-Step: Building a Bin Enclosure in 7 Steps
Step 1: Prepare the Ground
- Choose a flat, hard surface. Paving, concrete slabs or compacted gravel. On bare earth or grass, the enclosure will sink and the wood will rot faster.
- Lay 4–6 concrete slabs (30×30 cm) as a foundation if you’re building on soft ground.
- Measure out the position and mark where the corner posts will go.
Step 2: Build the Bottom and Top Frames
- Cut the frame timbers to length: 2 long pieces (width of enclosure) and 2 short pieces (depth of enclosure).
- Screw the bottom frame into a rectangle. Check squareness by measuring the diagonals — they should be equal.
- Build the top frame in the same way, exactly the same dimensions.
Tip: Build both frames on a flat surface (patio, driveway) before mounting them on the posts. This way you work more accurately.
Step 3: Mount the Posts
- Screw the 4 corner posts to the bottom frame. Use 2 screws (5×60 mm) per joint, through the frame into the post.
- Mount the middle post halfway along the front (for a double enclosure). This is the divider between the two bin compartments.
- Check all posts are vertical with a spirit level.
- Mount the top frame onto the posts. Screw with 2 screws per corner.
- Place the enclosure on post anchors or directly on the paving.
Step 4: Clad the Sides and Back
- Cut the boards to size for the side walls and back wall.
- Screw the boards horizontally onto the posts, with 1–1.5 cm gaps between them. These gaps are essential for ventilation.
- Start at the bottom and work upwards. Use 2 screws per board per post.
- Always pre-drill — cedar and pine split at the edges if you screw directly.
Ventilation is crucial. Bins smell if there’s no air circulation. The gaps between boards (1–1.5 cm) provide sufficient ventilation. Build the back wall in the same way — no solid wall.
Step 5: Build the Lid
The lid must open so you can open and fill the bin without rolling it out of the enclosure.
- Build a frame from 2 cross battens (4.5×4.5 cm) with boards (14×2 cm) on top, with 1 cm gaps.
- Mount heavy-duty T-hinges on the back (top edge of the back wall). Use stainless steel hinges — galvanised hinges rust within 2 years.
- Mount a handle on the front of the lid.
- Optional: mount gas struts (lid stays) that hold the lid open. This costs $18–$30 but makes use much more comfortable — you have both hands free to throw in rubbish.
Design choice: Make a separate lid per bin compartment, or one large lid across the full width. Separate lids are more practical — you only need to open one half.
Step 6: Build the Front (Doors or Open)
The front must open so you can roll the bin out on collection day.
Option 1: Hinged doors (recommended)
1. Build a door per bin compartment from horizontal boards on a frame of 2 vertical battens.
2. Mount with 2 T-hinges per door on the post.
3. Add a magnetic catch or slide bolt so the door stays shut in the wind.
Option 2: Fully open front
Leave the front open (no boards, no door). This is the easiest and the bin is immediately accessible, but it looks less tidy.
Option 3: Removable boards
Horizontal boards that sit in a groove and can be lifted out. No hinges needed, but fiddly in practice.
Step 7: Finishing
- Sand all visible edges lightly with 120 grit. Remove splinters.
- Treat the wood (optional for cedar — it weathers untreated to a beautiful silver-grey). Want to keep the colour? Apply 2 coats of wood stain or oil.
- Check the bins roll in and out smoothly.
- Optionally mount a house number sign or label holder for the waste type (general waste, recycling, garden waste, glass).
Ventilation: Why It’s Not Optional
Bins contain organic waste that rots and smells, especially in summer. A closed enclosure without ventilation makes this problem worse — the heat and moisture have no escape.
Minimum ventilation requirements:
– 1–1.5 cm gap between all horizontal boards
– Ventilation on at least 2 sides (front + back, or side walls)
– Don’t seal the lid completely — leave 1 cm gap or use boards with spacing
Extra tip: Place a layer of newspaper or a compostable bag on the bottom of your organic waste bin. This absorbs moisture and significantly reduces odour.
Common Mistakes When Building a Bin Enclosure
| Mistake | Consequence | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Building too tight | Bin doesn’t fit or scrapes against the wood | Minimum 7 cm clearance all round |
| No ventilation | Smell, mould, insect infestation | 1–1.5 cm gap between all boards |
| No door on the front | Bin has to be lifted out from the top | Doors or fully open front |
| Lid not sturdy enough | Slams shut on your hands or head | Mount gas struts or lid stays |
| Placing on soft ground | Sinking, tilting, wood rot | Concrete slabs or compacted gravel as foundation |
| Using galvanised hinges | Rust within 1–2 years in a wet environment | Always stainless steel hinges |
| Using exact bin dimensions | Too tight after slight wood expansion | Measure the bin and add 7 cm clearance per side |
Practical Tips
- Use cedar, larch or treated pine. Cedar and larch are naturally weather-resistant and last 10–15 years without treatment. Pressure-treated pine is cheaper but should be stained every 3–5 years.
- Mount castors under the bottom frame if you want to move the enclosure. Four swivel castors with brakes ($18–$30 per set) make relocation easy.
- Build the enclosure slightly taller than the bin. This way the bin’s own lid can open inside the enclosure. Measure the height of your bin with the lid open and make the enclosure at least that tall.
- Build in the correct order. First the frame, then the cladding, then the lid, lastly the doors. The doors will then fit the opening exactly.
- Consider a green roof. A layer of sedum on the enclosure lid looks attractive and captures rainwater. Lay EPDM membrane on the lid, a drainage layer and 4–5 cm of substrate with sedum. Cost: $25–$50 extra.
Maintenance and Lifespan
How Long Does a Bin Enclosure Last?
| Wood Type | Lifespan (untreated) | Lifespan (treated) |
|---|---|---|
| Untreated pine | 3–5 years | 6–8 years (with stain) |
| Pressure-treated pine | 8–12 years | 10–15 years (with stain) |
| Cedar | 10–15 years | 12–18 years (with oil/stain) |
| Larch | 10–15 years | 12–18 years (with oil/stain) |
| Hardwood | 20–25 years | 25–30 years |
Annual Maintenance
- Check the hinges. Lubricate them annually with a drop of WD-40 or silicone spray. Hinges that squeak or stick wear out faster.
- Check the structure for rot. Especially the bottom of the posts and the lowest boards are vulnerable. Replace rotting boards promptly — one rotten board draws moisture to the rest.
- Clean the enclosure. Spray it down annually with a garden hose. Remove green growth with a brush and soapy water. No pressure washer — it damages the wood.
- Re-stain every 3–5 years (only if you’ve treated the wood). Cedar left untreated simply weathers grey and needs no maintenance.
Keeping the Bin Clean
A clean bin smells less and attracts fewer insects. After each collection:
– Give the bin a quick rinse with a garden hose
– Sprinkle a handful of baking soda on the bottom (absorbs odour)
– Or place a newspaper on the bottom (absorbs moisture)
In summer: wash the bin once a month with hot water and a splash of white vinegar.
Frequently Asked Questions About Building a Bin Enclosure
How much does it cost to build a bin enclosure?
$100 to $170 for a single enclosure (1 bin), $145 to $240 for a double enclosure (2 bins) and $220 to $350 for a triple. The price depends on the type of wood. Cedar is $25–$50 more than pine but lasts twice as long.
What dimensions does my bin have?
The two most common wheelie bins are 140 litre / 37 gal (48x55x106 cm) and 240 litre / 64 gal (58x73x106 cm). Always take a tape measure and measure your own bin — there are small differences between manufacturers and councils.
How do I prevent smell in the bin enclosure?
Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation. Leave 1–1.5 cm gaps between all boards. Don’t make the back wall solid. And in summer: rinse the bin after each collection with water and a splash of white vinegar. That kills bacteria and reduces odour.
Do I need planning permission for a bin enclosure?
In most areas, no. A bin enclosure is considered garden furniture and is typically permitted without planning permission. However, your homeowners’ association or local council may have requirements about placement (e.g. not on the pavement).
How long does it take to build a bin enclosure?
A weekend, often even less. Expect 4–6 hours for a single enclosure and 6–8 hours for a double. Most of the work is in cutting and screwing the boards.
What is the best wood for outdoor use?
Cedar offers the best value for money for outdoor wood. It’s naturally durable (10–15 years without treatment), affordable and widely available. Larch is comparable. Avoid untreated softwood pine — it rots within 3–5 years.
Building Plans and Guides
Ready to get started with professional building plans and step-by-step guides? Check out the complete building plans package at fredsdiyplans.com — with thousands of plans for every DIY project.
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