Laying a wooden floor costs €25 to €80 per square metre in materials, depending on the type of wood. Have it professionally installed and you’re quickly looking at €50 to €150 per m² — including materials. Laying a 50 m² wooden floor yourself saves you €2,000 to €4,000. In this article you’ll find a complete step-by-step guide for both floating and glued installation, including preparation tips and finishing work.
Which type of wooden floor should you choose?
Solid parquet
Fully solid wood, 18–22 mm thick. Can be sanded and refinished multiple times — lasts a lifetime with good care.
Advantages: extremely durable, can be re-sanded, authentic wood feel
Disadvantages: more expensive to buy, more sensitive to moisture fluctuations, must be glued or nailed (cannot be laid floating)
Material price: €40 – €100/m²
Engineered parquet (multi-layer)
A top layer of solid wood (2–6 mm) over several layers of plywood. More stable than solid wood and suitable for floating installation and underfloor heating.
Advantages: more stable, suitable for underfloor heating, can be laid floating, wide choice
Disadvantages: can be sanded 1–2 times (depending on top layer thickness), not for wet rooms
Material price: €25 – €70/m²
Bamboo flooring
Technically not wood but a grass. Extremely hard, durable and increasingly popular as an alternative to wooden flooring.
Advantages: very hard (harder than oak), sustainable, attractive appearance
Disadvantages: more sensitive to water than engineered wood, less traditional feel
Material price: €20 – €50/m²
Cost comparison: DIY vs. professional
| Materials (DIY) | Professional (incl. materials) | |
|---|---|---|
| **Engineered parquet (50 m²)** | €1,250 – €3,500 | €2,500 – €6,000 |
| **Solid parquet (50 m²)** | €2,000 – €5,000 | €4,000 – €8,000 |
| **Saving** | 40–50% | — |
Required materials (engineered parquet, 50 m²)
| Material | Quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Engineered parquet | 55 m² (10% extra) | €1,375 – €3,850 |
| Underlay (acoustic) | 55 m² | €55 – €165 |
| Skirting boards | ±30 metres | €60 – €150 |
| Pull bar and tapping block | Set | €15 – €30 |
| Spacer wedges | Set | €5 – €10 |
| Adhesive (for glued method) | 5 kg/m² | €100 – €200 |
| **Total (floating installation)** | **€1,510 – €4,205** |
Subfloor check: this is crucial
A wooden floor is sensitive to a poor subfloor. Before laying, check:
Flatness
The subfloor must not deviate by more than 3 mm over 2 metres. Check with a long straightedge. More than 3 mm deviation? Level the floor before you start (see the floor levelling article).
Moisture content
- Concrete: maximum 2.0% moisture content (CM method) or 75% relative humidity (RH measurement)
- Wooden subfloor/boards: maximum 5% moisture content
- Measure with a moisture meter — available at builders’ merchants (€20–€60) or hire from the flooring supplier
Too damp? Wait, ventilate, or lay a vapour-retarding membrane as an intermediate layer.
Temperature
Never lay a wooden floor at temperatures below 15°C or above 28°C. The floor must acclimatise in the room — see Step 1.
Subfloor checks before laying a wooden floor
- Flatness: No more than 3 mm deviation over 2 metres; level the floor first if it deviates more
- Concrete moisture: Maximum 2.0% moisture content (CM method) or 75% relative humidity (RH measurement)
- Wooden subfloor moisture: Maximum 5% moisture content
- Room temperature: Never lay below 15°C or above 28°C
Step-by-step guide: laying a wooden floor (floating method)
Step 1: Acclimatise
Leave the floorboards to acclimatise for at least 48–72 hours in the room where they will be laid. Stack the packs flat but not in direct sunlight or next to a radiator.
During acclimatisation, the wood adjusts its moisture content to the environment. Skip this step and the floor may shrink or swell after laying — resulting in gaps or humps.
Step 2: Prepare the subfloor
Remove existing floor coverings. Clean the subfloor thoroughly — even small grit or stains can show through thin underlay.
Fill small dips and high spots with self-levelling compound. Leave to dry fully.
Step 3: Lay the underlay
Roll out the underlay over the entire surface. Lay the sheets side by side (not overlapping) — overlapping underlay creates bumps. Tape the joins with the supplied tape.
The underlay provides:
- Acoustic insulation (reduces impact and airborne sound)
- Compensation for minor unevenness (max. 1–2 mm)
- Moisture management
Step 4: Lay the first row
Start along the longest wall, at a distance of 8–10 mm from the wall (expansion gap). Use spacer wedges.
Lay the first row with the grain running parallel to the longest wall, groove facing the wall. Cut the last piece to length. Start the second row with the off-cut from the previous row (at least 30 cm long).
Step 5: Laying pattern (staggered bond)
Lay the floor in a staggered bond: the end joints of adjacent rows must be offset by at least 40 cm. This is essential for a stable and visually attractive floor.
Connect the rows by clicking the groove and tongue together (click system) or pressing together with a pull bar. Use a protective block when tapping to avoid damaging the tongue.
Step 6: Cutting and fitting
For walls that are not straight: use a template or scribing tool to transfer the profile onto the boards. Use a jigsaw for curved cuts.
Around pipes: drill a hole 2 cm larger in diameter than the pipe. Cut the piece so that it fits around the pipe.
Step 7: Last row
Measure the required width of the last row at several points — the wall is rarely perfectly straight. Draw a line and cut the boards to the correct size. Use a pull bar to press the last row into position.
Step 8: Skirting boards and cover strips
Remove the spacer wedges. Fix the skirting boards to the wall (not to the floor) — use screws or adhesive. The skirting board covers the expansion gap.
Also use transition strips at doorways and where the floor meets other floor coverings (laminate, tiles).
Step 9: Apply surface protection (optional)
A floating wooden floor already comes pre-finished from the manufacturer. Want extra protection? Apply a hard surface product or floor sealer (follow the manufacturer’s instructions).
Common mistakes
- Not acclimatising. The most common cause of gaps or humps — always allow 48–72 hours.
- Forgetting the expansion gap. Without 8–10 mm all round, the floor will buckle in warm conditions.
- Too small an offset for end joints. End joints less than 40 cm apart look poor and weaken the floor.
- Laying in the wrong direction. Always lay parquet in the direction of the incoming light (towards the window) — this gives the most attractive result.
- Overlapping the underlay. Overlapping underlay causes audible bumps and squeaking.
Maintenance
- Daily: mop with a nearly dry mop (never wet)
- Weekly: hoover with a soft nozzle
- Annually: apply maintenance oil or floor sealer when the floor starts to look dull
- Every 5–15 years: solid parquet can be sanded down and refinished
Frequently asked questions
Can a wooden floor be laid over underfloor heating?
Engineered parquet: yes, provided the manufacturer allows it (check specifications). Solid parquet: more limited — max. floor temperature 27°C and max. 45% relative humidity. Always check the CE marking.
How long does it take to lay a wooden floor?
A competent DIYer can lay 20–30 m² per day (floating method). A 20 m² room can be done in a day, including preparation.
What is the difference between floating and glued installation?
Floating: the boards are connected to each other but not fixed to the subfloor. Glued: each board is glued to the subfloor. Glued floors are more stable and produce less foot noise, but are more complex and permanent.
How much extra material should I buy?
Always buy 10% extra for cutting waste and future repairs. For a complex laying pattern (diagonal, herringbone), allow 15–20% extra.
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